Did a lot of riding last week.

I have this bike:

http://www.trekbicyclesupersto...-8.5-ds-239199-1.htm

I was fitted for it, it's dialed in to where I want it to be.

Tried a buddy's bike:

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/e...-2017/?colorCode=red

It rode very nice. Very smooth. I'm not going to give up my bike by any means but what I really liked about his bike was how smooth and response it was. Maybe it was because his bike had 50 miles on it while mine has over 2,000. But I was thinking the tires were a big difference. His bike is a fitness style bike while mine is a hybrid. I have more tread on my tires than he does and his tire/wheel setup is thinner.

My tires are 700 x 38, larger than road bike but smaller than true mountain bike.

Can getting my ride to be smoother and more response be as simple as swapping out tires?

Looking at something like this:

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/e...522/?colorCode=black

narrower tires usually run higher pressure.

That said try a set of slicks as bicycle slicks really stick to the road in most road conditions (wet, dry).

I run Maxxis Padrone tubeless in 700x25, but you can save some money by not going tubeless.

These Maxxis tires would be a good fit for you https://www.biketiresdirect.co...use-gravel?fltr=3755

I find the slicks to be very responsive tires.

Both bikes are good Trek aluminum-frame hybrid-type bikes; yours has a front suspension fork and his has a carbon fork with no suspension. I suspect that makes a much larger difference than the tires.
Changing tires is much easier, though, and may be worth the effort. One thing is just to make sure your tires are inflated to a relatively high level, e.g. at least 90 psi or so. Then tires without knobby treads, the more like slicks the better, will help.
Do you ride off road at all? If you don't you might consider looking into changing to a carbon fork like your buddy's bike.

700x38 vx his 700x32. Your front suspension vs his fixed suspension. Assuming you're on asphalt or concrete, his will roll easier. While they're calling your bike a hybrid, I'd liken it more to a mountain bike. Tires may help and higher pressure too. But you're riding different bikes. Hop on a quick road bike and you'll really notice the difference.

I have a Trek and Specialized similar to your friend's FX3. I like them for my wife and daughter. I used to have the Trek 7500 (precursor to the FX 7.5) and loved it. When I got the Trek Madone - uh, wow. 700x23 and carbon frame are zippy.

In my case a Trek 5500--holy cow what a difference!

quote:

bicycle slicks really stick to the road in most road conditions

yeah , not so much in the wet , at all.

I had slicks on a bike in Phoenix, and the rain made them exactly that , "slick"

at all but the lowest speeds, it was like riding on ice, when it rained

Changing tires will help, but changing bikes will be all the difference in the world. I started my dad out on a hybrid bike like what you have now. He rode it with his cycle group (aged 65+) until he reached the limits of what the bike could do for him, then he got a new one. I would definitely change tires and then push the bike until it can't do what you need to anymore, then the fun begins.

quote:

Can getting my ride to be smoother and more response be as simple as swapping out tires?

Absofreakinglutely, in a broad sense.

Perhaps in your scenario. Too hard to say without first hand experience.

That road bile (your buddies) also probably has more aggressive geometry like a steeper fork rake too and more rider weight over the front of the bike, which makes them feel much more responsive, on the down side it's not as stable and can feel more twitchy (kinda of the difference between a crotch rocket motorcycle's geometry and a more laid-back cruiser's geometry).

As for slicks on a bike, on "road" surfaces, whether wet or dry, they provide more traction than grooved or knobbed tires. That being said, when it rains on roads, car oil's seep/float out of the pavement, and ALL rubber tires suck until the oil washes out from continued rain or the road dries. This doesn't apply to just bicycles, it also applies to motorized vehicles traction. The most horrible traction is wet steel, like railroad tracks or manhole covers, which motorcyclists are smart to try and go over perpendicular as possible when wet (or even dry).

Grooves and knobs are better for "non"-paved loose-surface traction (like dirt, grass, or sand) as they physically dig into the soft surface to provide more traction. On smoother hard surfaces, it's the rough carbon combined with the rubber in the tire that provides the friction for traction as there is no "digging" into hard surfaces and round profile smooth tires provide more surface contact regardless of lean angle, for the tire (canoe shaped contact patch). You need grooves on auto tires to displace water at higher speeds and prevent hydroplaning because the tire is always square in profile against the road. You cannot pedal a bicycle fast enough to hydroplane skinny round profile tires (Lance Armstrong on roids or not), but wet surfaces are always more slippery than dry surfaces regardless of tread pattern/type or lack thereof on a bicycle.


Thought I'd add, that road bike tires tend to be pumped to a much high pressure than other bike style tires. This also enhances the "fast feel" compared to lower pressure tires, but makes the ride much rougher feeling too on surface irregularities.

Rotating weight will change acceleration feel more than static bike weight. Think jumping jacks. Now think jumping jacks with a dictionary in each hand. If you buy a lighter or more narrow tire you'll feel it. Better wheels help, even lighter tubes.

Others also have it right, the geometry and frame design have quite a bit to do with changing the other handling attributes. Before spending a lot on parts consider the type of bike, just as you would a different firearm to do a different job.

Last I'll drift off to a smaller point on air pressure. It is best to fill bike tires to recommended pressure. That number comes from manufacture tests on profile, cord flex, ect. If you ride on a bowling alley, extra pressure will roll better. In the real world extra pressure bounces you more. While true it feels rougher, it also wastes energy bouncing you upwards instead of rolling over imperfections and maintaining fwd momentum. Great tires roll over imperfections well because of pliable construction.

Bike shop ordered these for me:

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/e...ode=black_reflective

They will be here in a few days. I figure that I can easily swap the tires back if I want to hit the trails.

not a big difference. weight matters quite a bit in the cycling world. If you had a mtn bike with 1.95 or wider tires it makes a big differnence. Yours not so much.

Yours should be more comfortable and have better braking. A lighter pair of wheels would make a big difference but they are spendy.

If you want better performance you need a bike upgrade!!!

It's the combo of narrow(er) higher psi tires and more road tuned geometry.

In the sales manual it will state the given seat tube and head tube angle/geometry for each bike.
That's the soul of the bike.


Don't forget when you get on your bike you experience suspension sag.
Especially acute if the fork is not tuned to your weight and riding.
Cheaper suspension forks and wider tires look nice but offer zero efficiency or performance advantages.

Dump the fat tires for narrower will help. Plan on Inner tubes too.
Run a higher preload on the fork if possible could help. It will eventually fail if its run on maximum preload.

Talk to the shop you got it from. There usually is a fit specialist on hand if it was a smaller operation, independent bike dealer.

Or email me.