Only as a short-term expedient for maybe a half hour running time. Obviously better than no oil at all, but what trouble am I asking for? Would ATF be a better substitute?

I don't know why it should be oil anyway, chain/bar lubrication looks to me more like it should call for a grease.

Finally, any of you sawyers find a bar oil that is superior to the rest?

The bar oil I've used is more like gear oil. I think motor oil would be too thin.

But I'm no expert.

in a pinch 30 w would work

I do not recommend using anything else other than bar oil. Many potential issues if something else is used even for only a short time. Viscosity, tackifiers, etc. There are many resources online where you can research this matter.

As for bars, I run Stihl saws and their replacement bars are great, but expensive. I've used Oregon replacement bars and they are fine, but do not seem to last as long as Stihl for me. Just make certain you get the correct length and end sprocket type. Forum member fritz can probably add a lot more useful information to this thread.

I've used whatever I had on hand over the years.. canola oil, motor oil, and hydraulic oil!

My logger uses old motor oil from his machines in all his Stihl saws. I wouldn't think that's a good idea though. 30w engine oil or 80w gear oil are both about the same viscosity and is what I'd use in a pinch.

As I understand it, bar oil has stuff that makes it stick to the chain as the chain goes round the end so that the bottom of the bar gets oil.

Yes, in a pinch, motor oil is ok, the cleaner the better. I’d try to lean thicker also, 30w or more.

In the ‘old’ days, it was often used motor oil. Yes, regular bar oil is thicker(tackier) than the thinner motor oil.

I keep at least one gallon of ‘winter weight’ bar oil around, for cold temp use. I occasionally have used motor oil that is fairly clean, changed on time, low hours or miles. I will often save this oil and add it to my winter weight bar oil supply.

For thirty minutes of run time, motor oil is fine. If you are concerned that it is not enough, pour some oil on the bar and let it soak into the chain crevices. I keep an oil can with a pump handy when I am cutting a big stump. Every 30 seconds I douse the chain with oil.

My Stihl dealer used to sell Bel Ray Hi Tac bar and chain oil that seemed to work well. Now, I just use tractor supply bar oil, Stihl oil, or Walmart oil. I go through at least 50 gallons a year.

Project Farm tested bar oils and found that Harvest King was the best.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Suppressed,

Back to the question . If that's all you have . And you really need to cut . Then go for it . You'll probably get some oil on you.

In a pinch, motorcycle chain lube would likely be the closest thing to Bar oil. If it were already around. It would almost certainly be more expensive though.

Bacon grease.

Some places require vegetable oil in saws.

Motor oil works just fine for your 30 minute use. I recommend not pushing the saw too hard. If you see the oil smoking on the bar, consider giving the saw a rest and letting it cool down a bit. I recommend that your chain not be all that tight -- but tight enough to keep the saw from throwing the chain.

I've used a few saw oils here and there. I feel Husky oil is a little thick, especially in winter. The oil just doesn't seem to flow well to the bottom of the bar.

Stihl oil can be a little thick in winter, too. Not as bad as Husky. It works great in warmer temps and OK in winter.

I find it interesting that Harvest King oil is among the cheapest oils, but it seems to work as well as (if not better than) the big name expensive oils. HK oil is fairly thin, and thus I'd expect it to get slung off the tip of the bar. Nope, it lubes the entire chain & bar just fine. I find Harvest King oil at the local farm & ranch supply stores.

One way to tell if your bar is poorly lubed and too hot, is by looking for discoloration of the bar. The bar's metal and/or paint will begin darkening from the outside edge of the cutting part of the bar. Darkening could be as little as a quarter inch, or as big as an inch for a problem system. This generally results in increased bar wear -- both the inner groove width and the surface edges where the chain contacts the bar. Somewhat-worn bars can be "dressed" -- deburring the edges with a flat bastard file, and squaring the edges with a squaring tool/file.

quote:

Originally posted by fritz:

….if your bar is poorly lubed and too hot….

We all know how painful that can be.

quote:

Originally posted by fritz:
..I recommend that your chain not be all that tight -- but tight enough to keep the saw from throwing the chain.

How come?

In general one can get by with a little looser chain cutting big wood. One is more likely to throw a chain cutting small stuff & branches.

Like anything, there’s the preferred amount, I’ll take a slight sag, I said slight.

I know more than one that runs used oil all the time with no noticeable detriment.

All I have ever used was motor oil or used if its still around. Used to cut lots of wood in my younger days to burn and sell during the winter when work was slower and never had any noticeable wear issues.
Keeping the chain sharp and adjusted was the key to cutting wood IMO.

I'd just make sure I had enough bar oil on hand to finish whatever wood cutting was necessary.