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Just because you can, doesn't mean you should |
Steel structure is much better for fire insurance, no termites, etc. ___________________________ Avoid buying ChiCom/CCP products whenever possible. | |||
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member |
I don't know the distances involved (house to well, shop to well, etc), but we are on a well share with 3 properties on it. The run to our house is about 500 feet, and it has worked just fine for 16 years. You may be able to tap into your existing well. | |||
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Staring back from the abyss |
^^^^ I just ran mine from my main line under the house coming from my well. Just putting in a "T" was all it took. ________________________________________________________ "Great danger lies in the notion that we can reason with evil." Doug Patton. | |||
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Cruising the Highway to Hell |
It will be a long run and will have to cross a creek for water. May have to look at a location closer to the house. “Government exists to protect us from each other. Where government has gone beyond its limits is in deciding to protect us from ourselves.” ― Ronald Reagan Retired old fart | |||
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member |
Ours crosses a wash, but of course here in AZ the washes are dry 95% of the year so it was easy to excavate, and deep enough to get below what will be any running water. Whenever a small wash like ours runs, it either leaves the base level the same as the running deposits new sand. Some bigger washes gain sand and have to be ocassionally excavated. Doesn't do you much good. Is there any practical way to go over the stream? Wells are deep and expensive to drill here, something like $10,000++ just to get the casing and head in place. | |||
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Cruising the Highway to Hell |
I imagine you don’t have to worry about freezing get either. The well we have for the house is about 48 feet deep and more like an old style hand dug well. “Government exists to protect us from each other. Where government has gone beyond its limits is in deciding to protect us from ourselves.” ― Ronald Reagan Retired old fart | |||
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Member |
out here in the mid west the pole building companies offer an aluminum sided skin or a steel sheet metal skin for the exterior. I should have been more precise Safety, Situational Awareness and proficiency. Neck Ties, Hats and ammo brass, Never ,ever touch'em w/o asking first | |||
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member |
Only the pipes that come up out of the ground, like for a hose bib or irrigation back flow valve. Our well is 600 ft deep, which is fairly common around here. | |||
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Member |
Last year I built a 40x60 shop with 16' ceilings. I have a 12'x14' door on each end. Monolithic 6" slab with #5 rebar. 200A service pulled from the 600A panel at the house. Stick built, wood truss. Metal roof and siding except the front which is stone and LP Smartsiding. 5/8" Type X drywall 4'to the ceiling. Corrugated Galvalume from the floor up 4'. Walls insulated with 5-1/2" of sprayfoam. One 14'ø BigAss fan, propane heat. I made a 9x12 office with electric heat that I keep warm all winter; I keep the shop at 45* unless I'm working in there. A frost free outside the office, but it's a dry building. It does have floor drains in the slab to make it easy to wash it down. | |||
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Member |
Previous poster is that a JD 110? Nice machine! | |||
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Member |
Good eye; yes a 110. Very handy for building the house and shop. | |||
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Three Generations of Service |
NICE shop, aileron! What are those multi-colored tubes next to your welding station? Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent. | |||
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Cruising the Highway to Hell |
Aileron, that is pretty close to what I’m looking to build. I love the corrugated metal on the lower walls. “Government exists to protect us from each other. Where government has gone beyond its limits is in deciding to protect us from ourselves.” ― Ronald Reagan Retired old fart | |||
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Member |
Thank you! TIG filler rod storage; different colors for different alloys. | |||
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