The propane side has quit. It will not self ignite. I can light it manually, but it goes out after a few seconds. Heater is Atwood model GC6AA-10E. Thank you.

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Originally posted by Plugugly:
The propane side has quit. It will not self ignite. I can light it manually, but it goes out after a few seconds. Heater is Atwood model GC6AA-10E. Thank you.

There's a sensor that will kill the gas if it doesn't detect that the burner is burning. If the igniter fails, it keeps un-burnt gas from flowing out to blow you up. could be as simple as a spider web on the sensor.

It might be a thermocouple or other sensor, quick google search didn't find the manual for your specific water heater so I won't go further. That's what I'd start with though.

I believe a lot of propane heating devices work much the same way.

Assuming you are not out of propane:

1. There is a pilot light.
2. When the pilot light is lit, it heats a thermocouple that allows propane to flow to the pilot light and main burner.
3. When you turn on the main burner on, gas flows to it and the pilot light ignites the gas.

For the pilot light, you usually have to hold the valve in for 20-30 seconds which allows gas to flow to the pilot light until the thermocouple is hot enough to allow the gas flow on it's own. If the pilot light is not lighting, the tube is clogged. If the pilot light is lighting, but not staying lit, the thermocouple isn't hot enough to keep gas flowing (try holding the valve in longer) or the thermocouple is defective.

I'm assuming what is not staying lit is the pilot light. I don't believe you can light the main burner manually as gas won't flow to it unless the thermocouple is hot enough and stays hot enough. The pilot tube on our oven was crimped, which I didn't find out until we first tried to use it 8 months after buying our RV. I was able to get the main burner to light by holding a grill lighter where the pilot light would have been. Once I removed the grill lighter, the gas shut off to the burner.

Dumb question; You have propane in the tank?

Use a multimeter to make sure your wiring is good.

Best guess is a thermocouple like someone mentioned.

This unit doesnt have a thermocouple, as it is direct spark ignition.

Usually a good cleaning of the spark electrode, flame sensor and burner tube resolves the issues.

quote:

Atwood model GC6AA-10E.

another vote for spider on the sensor.

Plugugly

I just replaced all of the components in my Atwood including the circuit board and gas valve. Part preventative maintenance and part fixing a problem.

The above video is good, but he skips a couple of troubleshooting steps even though he does diagnose the problem. It is actually a very simple system and there is an upgraded board I would recommend if in fact it is the board.

Here is the upgrade board: https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/UIB-64.html

If you have questions, email is in my profile, contact me and I'll get you my phone number.

Thanks, everyone. I now have a starting point for my next day off.

Following this as I had the same problem crop up last weekend on my trailer. I think the exact same water heater...

It was the circuit board. Wires just plug in, then two screws to attach it. Took it to a dealer to be tested. Replacement was right at $170. All good now. Fires right up. Thanks again, everyone.