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semi-reformed sailor![]() |
So I was issued a foul weather parka in ‘03 that’s got a gor-tex outer shell. Well Mike washed and dried it and didn’t remember to remove the chapstick from the pocket. Now it has wax stains that can be seen inside and outside. I put it in the tub with hot water and Dawn dishwashing soap directly on a few spots and tried to clean it-no joy. Took it to the dry cleaner. Just got it back nd it’s still spotty. Anyone here a dry cleaner or knowledgeable about for-tex and beeswax? "Violence, naked force, has settled more issues in history than has any other factor.” Robert A. Heinlein “You may beat me, but you will never win.” sigmonkey-2020 “A single round of buckshot to the torso almost always results in an immediate change of behavior.” Chris Baker | ||
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Member |
So you have to get melted wax out of fabric. Try a heat source- Like a blow dryer set on medium, maybe high, blot the wax out with a paper towel or rag. ______________________________________________________________________ "When its time to shoot, shoot. Dont talk!" “What the government is good at is collecting taxes, taking away your freedoms and killing people. It’s not good at much else.” —Author Tom Clancy | |||
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Fighting the good fight![]() |
Place a old (but clean) towel or shop rag over the wax area, and another under the wax area. Use an iron on medium-low-ish heat (no steam) over the top towel to heat the wax, melting it, and causing it to be absorbed by the towel sandwich. Refold and move the towels around frequently to expose clean areas, or swap in other towels. But I doubt you'll ever be able to get 100% of it out of the fabric. | |||
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It might not matter if the wax never touched the gore-tex membrane layer, unless the gore-tex layer was laminated to the outer shell. In either case I wouldn't worry about it, though the goretex will fail to expire internal water vapor if the outer shell doesn't bead water. That is easily DIY fixable using products from companies like Nikwax etc. If you're worried about the stains left over from the wax contamination itself, that is a completely separate topic altogether. A clarification - the gore-tex will not let any liquid water through regardless if the outer shell wets through or not, but if it does wet through, the internal vapor pressure of the water that naturally evaps from your skin will not be able to escape. Thus you will not get wet from the rain per se (notwithstanding unsealed seams etc) from the outside, but you'll get wet from the inside because your natural sweat will not escape. So the harder you're working, the wetter you'll get from the inside, regardless of the amount of rain, or no rain at all. If you use an iron to melt the wax, I don't know if that will let any wax impregnate the gore-tex, or if it already has been contaminated, if the was will come out of the gore-text layer. See what you get for asking a complicated question. Sorry I couldn't help myself. Lover of the US Constitution Wile E. Coyote School of DIY Disaster | |||
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Speaking of the water repellant finish on the outer fabric. I have used Nikwax and another product especially for goretex shells. Neither product gave me any meaningful rejuvenation of the OEM finish. The color darkened a tad and water beaded a little at first but before the season was over the fabric still wets out if I’m out long enough in snow or drizzle. Maybe the fabric wasnt clean enough or that stuff just isn’t durable. Anyone else find an DWR restorer that actually work? “That’s what.” - She | |||
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I'd leave it, is it bothering you that much? Considering the wax used for lip-balms are water soluble just run it through the wash again. Have you already applied the DWR? You know the spray-on topical coating that allows the water to bead-up on the surface of the fabric? When washing GoreTex and other performance waterproof technologies, you don't need a lot of soap just use half a portion of whatever liquid detergent you currently use, just make sure its the plain variety with ZERO brighteners or, enhancers added. The other option is using soaps that are specialty made for such washes...Nikwax is popular, I prefer Grangers, Revivex by Gear Aid I think was the old Tectron from a previous generation. | |||
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Saluki |
In my experience the stain will never leave. The harder you try and the more aggressive you become the more harm you do to the membrane. I’ve heard many times goretex has a pretty good support system. I’d reach out to them. ----------The weather is here I wish you were beautiful---------- | |||
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semi-reformed sailor![]() |
So I’m worried about the spots visually, the jacket still beads water off it. I’ll try blotting it from the inside with an iron. "Violence, naked force, has settled more issues in history than has any other factor.” Robert A. Heinlein “You may beat me, but you will never win.” sigmonkey-2020 “A single round of buckshot to the torso almost always results in an immediate change of behavior.” Chris Baker | |||
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Saluki |
They all suck, I’ve tried 3 different products and differing methods. A few years ago they changed formulations to get rid of PFAS as I understand it. The replacements just don’t lend themselves to home repair. My best results come from the Uber expensive wash followed by the wash in type rejuvenator, while still damp spray on another layer of rejuvenator then throw it in the dryer inside out by itself. Get it hot enough to stick it to the fabric. Hanging to dry doesn’t seem to work as well as a trip through the dryer. I retreat every wash weather I think I need to or not. I’m not some king of expert here, but I’ve got a f’k ton of money in these garments and love them when they work. I can’t justify replacing them because the water resistance has diminished. ----------The weather is here I wish you were beautiful---------- | |||
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This is the man right here. Very helpful. Lover of the US Constitution Wile E. Coyote School of DIY Disaster | |||
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