I have a nice set of Henckels that I have been using for about 14 years. I always used one of those hand held knife sharpeners, currently it is a smith with ceramic type insert poles. Before I remember it looking more metallic. At any rate, I am starting to see small chips in the knives. I keep reading the best way to repair them, and I see a lot of videos with whetstones. I also have a paring knife that at some point my wife used to pry something, resulting in a broken tip. Again people use whetstones.

Is this the best way to repair and keep a good edge on kitchen knives? I see HUGE price differences in stones that appear the same. Any links to preferred brands? I was hoping to keep it around $70 for a start up kit. Some kind of base, maybe 3 different grits, flattening stone, etc. Thanks in advance!

quote:

Originally posted by hunter62:
I see HUGE price differences in stones that appear the same.

The difference is profit margin.

I’m not a professional. I cook but casually.

For stainless European style knives like Henkel and wurstof, I use the Onion Worksharp. I only use whetstones for my Japanese carbon steel knives.

You bet. I use the Arkansas stones

Knives, scissors, etc have different angles for sharpening.

Lansky is one system to set up for the right angle.

I have and use Carborundum stones as well as Arkansas stones. Some are family heirlooms going back several generations. They do a good job and some of the knives here are worthy of good stones.

Get yourself a medium and fine india stone from Norton and you will have everything you will ever need.

Bob

I was a Butcher/Meat Manager for a good bit,

we used good quality knives but not the fancy chef stuff,

and to keep them sharp (needed to, a dull knife wears you out when you use it 8hrs a day) we used 2 tools

a good long steel, to keep the edge right,

and when needed, a Norton Tri Stone was used with food grade mineral oil,

rarely used the course stone,, mostly just touch them up with the fine,


stone

https://www.kasco.com/three-wa...ng-stone-system.html


knifes and steels,

https://www.kasco.com/cutlery.html

I use DMT diamond “stones”. 11-1/2” x 2-1/2” x 3/8”. I put stones in quotes because they’re actually slabs of SS with diamond grit on one 11-1/2” x 2-1/2” surface. No oil needed – I use ‘em dry. Cuts very fast, and so easy to clean. I have four of ‘em with grits ranging from extra coarse down to very fine.

I use two old hockey pucks for a bench rest.

And I have good old Chicago Cutlery steel.

Iuse a Ken Onion Worksharp to rehabilitiate ones that really need it.
A Japanese King 1000/6000 wetstone gives them the final edge.

quote:

Originally posted by Pipe Smoker:
I use DMT diamond “stones”. 11-1/2” x 2-1/2” x 3/8”. I put stones in quotes because they’re actually slabs of SS with diamond grit on one 11-1/2” x 2-1/2” surface. No oil needed – I use ‘em dry. Cuts very fast, and so easy to clean. I have four of ‘em with grits ranging from extra coarse down to very fine.

I use two old hockey pucks for a bench rest.

And I have good old Chicago Cutlery steel.

I have several DMT "stones" and I use them wet. I like the hockey puck holder idea.

Thanks everyone! I had not even looked at Lansky. Saw a few videos and this looks idiot proof

Ended up getting one of these. Thanks again for the help.

Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000...cp_tai_1RLYDb6CVZG1G

I use a combination of diamond and water stones for hand tool (chisels, plane irons, gouges, knives) maintenance.

Diamond for any surface that needs to be dead flat and/or has a lot of shaping to do, then water, and finish it off with a strip I made from cheap leather and a piece of plywood. I also use a diamond stone to flatten the water stones.

I only trust certain brands of water stones: King, Shapton, Suehiro, Naniwa. There's a few more, but those are the ones I can remember that I have personal experience with. The diamonds I have are DMT, but I've heard Atoma is good too, though it's expensive.

I do have one of the cheaper stones from Amazon. It's super frangible, and in my opinion the 2000 grit side produces a surface finish worse than the $20 1000 grit King stones I retired in favor of my $60 Suehiro 1000. Would it work in a pinch? Yeah. Given that I have other options, do I use it often? Nope.

I'd go with a 120 or 320 to shape the blades and remove the chips depending on severity, then follow up with a 1000, then 6000 and finally the strip to remove the burr. This is what I did when I wore knives for work as a binder with Gibson - I cut a lot of rope and had to sharpen at least weekly.

I want to get good stones but have not enough need just yet. A craftsman-sharpener not too far puts an edge on a chisel sharp enough to shave with.

This little stone has been for experimenting. When the blade of this peg shaper/shaver stopped doing anything more than polish the wood, I removed the blade and gave the stone a try.

Amazing, it actually worked. I was able to get the shaver working again. In some craftsperson circles a whole month, the first month of your instruction, is spent on making a chisel and learning how to make your tools sharp. Really really sharp.

You know those guys that can sharpen anything with just a toothbrush and some gum? I'm not one of them. I've killed more good knives than I care to admit.

I've promised myself that I'd take the time to really learn to sharpen but never have. Someday I guess...

Used to have an Edge-Pro and other like "systems" but have always returned to freehand.
Here's my "tool kit" with ceramics, Arkansas, diamond, aluminum oxide, strops, etc.

quote:

Originally posted by 41:
Knives, scissors, etc have different angles for sharpening.

Lansky is one system to set up for the right angle.

[FLASH_VIDEO]<iframe frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/n97hZbHtY2I" width="560"></iframe>[/FLASH_VIDEO]

Gatco is a similar system with huge advantages.

quote:

Originally posted by downtownv:

quote:

Originally posted by 41:
Knives, scissors, etc have different angles for sharpening.

Lansky is one system to set up for the right angle.

[FLASH_VIDEO]<iframe frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/n97hZbHtY2I" width="560"></iframe>[/FLASH_VIDEO]

Gatco is a similar system with huge advantages.

Can you elaborate on this a little? Thanks.

I got the Lansky 5 stone system along with the base. Damn easy to make my pocket knife the sharpest one I have ever had, for cheap.

Edit to add that I would have gone with the Gatco system had it been mentioned earlier. Looks like a better design to setup and to pack away.

Since you have chips and nicks, I’m of the opinion that the edge should be professionally restored.

For that, send them to Albert at Knife Sharpening Seattle

If your knives are quality, not junk, you’ll be amazed. The cost is well worth it.