I have a small deck on my condo where the 2x6 boards were installed a little too close together. Dirt and crap gets caught in the gaps and I have to push it through...not always easily.

I thought of getting a router and running through all the gaps to widen them. Does this sound like a good solution? Do they make router bits long enough to cut a 2x?

If this is a good idea, what router would you recommend? Is there a power minimum I should look at? Corded is okay as there is an outlet right nearby. It's likely I'll never use this router again, so I don't need a top dollar item.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 6guns,

A Skillsaw with an adjustable Dado blade would probably work well for that.

How new is the installation? New boards may shrink a bit.

A circular saw will be better and faster. Can you put a dado blade on a circular saw? I have one for my table saw. Maybe you can stack a pair of circular saw blades offset to get a 1/4" kerf if an 1/8" isn't enough.

Thanks, guys. I do have an old circular saw.

The deck is about 5 years old. I meant to mention the wood is pressure treated and has been painted.

ETA, I've never owned or used dado blades. Actually, now that I think about it, I have owned them with my old table saw, but never used them. And they're gone now with the table saw.

I would be concerned that either a router or a saw might "wander" a little as it traversed the slot. This could result in uneven lines and varying widths.

This factor might be reduced through use of a tracked system like Festool, but I still don't like the idea overall. With a circular saw cut, you'd have square edges on the boards rather than the relieved edges they undoubtedly now have so you'd still need the router.

Perhaps a pressure washer might be more effective in cleaning between the boards?

Just for completeness, another option might be a spiral saw (e.g. a Roto Zip) which definitely have bits available longer than the 1.5" depth of dimensional lumber (but I'd still have some concerns about accuracy).

^^^ Good points. Thanks.

I'm using a mini pry tool to ram down debris between the boards and then thought I'd use a hand drywall saw which is thinner to "cut" through the crap and in the process might cut through some of the wood. That's when I thought of the router idea.

what is the width you want to end up with? That will dictate the best tool.

Whether you use a router or circular saw just setup two boards as a guide and cut 1/2" deep and set the blade or bit deeper and make several passes, going 1/2" or so deeper each pass. you would likely need to finish the cuts with a hand saw or something up close to the house where the blade or bit can't reach.

quote:

Originally posted by hrcjon:
what is the width you want to end up with? That will dictate the best tool.

I was thinking 1/4"

quote:

Originally posted by BlackTalonJHP:
Whether you use a router or circular saw just setup two boards as a guide and cut 1/2" deep and set the blade or bit deeper and make several passes, going 1/2" or so deeper each pass. you would likely need to finish the cuts with a hand saw or something up close to the house where the blade or bit can't reach.

Yes, I can see needing a hand saw to get close to the ends. Making several passes makes sense.

A plunge router with an edge guide could probably do it. You might have to screw a straightedge down for the first cut but could probably slip an edge guide in for each one after. A 1/4" bit shouldn't take off more than a 1/4" each pass so it would take several passes. A circular saw with an edge guide would be quicker and easier.

You don’t put a dado blade in a circular saw..
and honestly I’d leave it alone. You’re not going to get to the last 8 inches or so to the ends and you’ll risk it looking terrible if you don’t get it perfectly straight. As long as it drains water then it’s whatever. Are the boards held down with screws? You’d be better off just moving them

^^^ So the guide would go into each subsequent groove (gap between boards)? ETA, reply to mark60

quote:

Originally posted by limblessbiff:
You don’t put a dado blade in a circular saw..
and honestly I’d leave it alone. You’re not going to get to the last 8 inches or so to the ends and you’ll risk it looking terrible if you don’t get it perfectly straight. As long as it drains water then it’s whatever. Are the boards held down with screws? You’d be better off just moving them

Yeah, I don't want it to look like shit. As I was washing it today, with 30 second mold/mildew cleaner, it actually did hold some water and that's what got me to pursue a solution. Admittedly, I haven't paid much attention to this deck. Once the gaps are clear, maybe I can keep up with it better.

Maybe hand "sawing" a bit with the drywall saw will open things up enough. I don't mind a little hand work.

"2x6"? The thickness of the plank might be the issue; 5/4" is what I've always seen. Perhaps the planks are taking longer than normal to dry out and shrink to final size.

1/4" sounds way to big a gap, particularly if the shrinking isn't complete. Pet toes would get tangled up in it (I've seen that - it was loud.) Things you want to keep would fall through it (drill bits, screwdriver bits, coins, screws...) 1/8" is what I read online was desired. 1/8" is also a standard circular saw blade kerf.

Sounds like a track saw is in your future. It would be much faster and more accurate than a router, and you'd also own a new tool.

Is removing the board not an option?
Also, 1/4” is quite large. Measure the gaps on some other boards.

Yeah, you're probably right...1/4" being too wide. Current gaps are between 1/8" and 3/16". Which is probably okay if I spent the correct time maintaining it properly.

Once I get them cleaned out, I'll see what I can do to keep them clear.

I appreciate all the replies, guys!

If the gap is in the 1/8th or bigger range, you need to figure a way to get the dirt off the deck rather than make the gap wider.
Popping a 1/4" router bit down in there & going to town is a bad idea no matter what.
A track saw or circ saw with a guide could cut a straight line, but then you have a square edge that will need rounded over or it will be splinter city. You'll need 1/4+ to get a roundover bit bearing in there, and as said, 1/4 is a big gap.
How much dirt do you get on your deck? Beyond dust or if I track some up there from shoes, I don't see a lot of dirt. Mine gets leave crammed in spots, but a blower or hose makes rather easy work of them (or at least enough to ignore).

If you want to buy a tool, a low-ish pressure pressure washer would make more sense to clean dirt out of the gaps/off the joists. Something like the battery-powered ones from Dewalt/Ryobi et all (no experience, but they look handy for some things). You probably want in the sub-1000psi range. If you already have a pressure washer, look for a 40* tip with a larger orifice than factory, that will lower the pressure & the wide fan will damage less. I use an 1800psi with a 40* tip & don't hold it close. It works for PT pine every 2ish years.

Pressure washer as mentioned or an air compressor (can rent from HD) would do the job one time.

quote:

Originally posted by 6guns:
I meant to mention the wood is pressure treated and has been painted.

Not to open a new can of worms...actually I may want to do that, now that I think of it.

If you saw/route the edges, you'll open up raw wood for moisture and also possibly mess up the painted look. Do you have a plan to re-seal/repaint after the woodwork?