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Originally posted by P250UA5:

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Originally posted by ryan81986:

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Originally posted by P250UA5:
Being a 2014, is it still under warranty?

3 days left thankfully. I already called the dealer but they can't bring it in for 2 weeks, so I figured I'd check here just in case.

Sounds like battery to me.
If you got an appt on the books would they still honor the warranty?

They're supposed to, since it was reported before the warranty expired.

You may be better off to just go buy a new battery.
If it's a 2014 model year vehicle, the battery may be from 2013 or even earlier. They usually prorate the battery and will sell you the new one at regular dealer (high) price minus a minimal amount for the old one. For what you will end up paying, you can buy a really good new battery.
Even if the battery is OK now, it's near the end of the normal life expectancy anyway.

Ok, I'm not familiar with how the major chains do a battery test. Is it a "hook up the cables and look at the meter" or a longer process that charges the battery and places a load test on it?

The load test ones take anywhere from 10-15 minutes to over an hour depending on state of charge. The cables on their tester, are they about the size of regular battery cables or smaller wires, maybe 10 gauge or something like that.

Unless the battery is fully charged and load tested I would have a healthy dose of skepticism of the chain testers.

Batteries can have what was called years ago a "surface charge", basically shows fully charged on a meter but once a load is placed on it the battery falls on it's face. Reduced cranking amps output. I've got one from a Harley that shows full voltage but once a load is put on it, it falls flat on it's face.

From my experience at least with Delco and Chrysler batteries, the O.E. ones are usually good for at least 5 to 6 years, this is from new car dealership experience, I was a GM counterman for a LONG time. The old lead acid non sealed batteries, I agree with three years on those, the newer sealed and AGM's together with the more sophisticated electronics and charging system hardware has improved their lifespan.

The biggest detriment to batteries I have seen is new car dealer "lot rot", when a car sits out back in inventory for months and never started. The battery discharges and remains in a discharged state and sulphates, shorting out the cells. Batteries self discharge even while disconnected, I've read various opinions but I use 5% as a base. Add the constant low current draw from ECM, BCM, ABS,Security systems, infotainment systems and you see this all adds up. "X" amount of time a battery stays in a discharged state damages it, if the dealership is lucky it gets charged and sold if it "passses" the load test but with potential unetected damage. If the dealership is unlucky, they buy a new battery as new car warranty does not cover a discharged battery in new vehicle inventory when not properly maintained. The dealership I worked at used to buy a lot of batteries for new vehicles that would sit for months out on the storage lot.

I would probably wait it out for the dealership to test that battery. Without the proper tests you may be replacing a battery for nothing. The test will print out a full readout of the battery and specifically tell whether or not the battery is good or replace.

I smell a battery, given its age. I don't put much faith in those little hand-held testers, even when I use them, let alone the Vato Zone guy.

My daughter had the same symptoms on her 2004 Camry. Mechanic tested battery, declared it bad. He wanted literally a million dollars to change the battery, so I paid only for the oil change and the diagnosis. Advance Auto installed a new AGM battery for free, and the 25% off coupon made it quite affordable. Now, my daughter reports instant crank, fast spinning engine, and all is right with the world. She also said that the Advance Auto technician said the old battery had swelled up. I suspect sulfation of the cells, reducing its capacity to take a charge.

Usually swelling is a sign of overheating or overcharging.

If the battery is 4 years old, it is most likely the battery. The new load testers have very small wires and are very good at testing them versus the 200 amp drawer heated coil ones. It could also be the starter or a battery cable and/or connection. This is what the DEKA distributor in Florida uses. You need to have the battery and starter tested and quite honestly I'd go to the dealer. I believe the Ford dealer will also do free load testing or very cheaply. The load tester is also only as good as the monkey pressing the button on it and Advanced auto doesn't exactly pay very well for highly trained people.

I put it on the charger last night which did essentially nothing. It was on for probably 2 hours and it still had the low battery indicator that night and slow start this morning. So the battery is the likely culprit.

I know this vehicle sat for awhile at the dealership so it likely wound up w/ a deep discharge.

Alright so as I was driving home today the dash display and radio display turned off, and when I parked the car I noticed the very distinctive rotten egg/sulfur smell so I immediately opened the hood and noticed that the battery was steaming and spitting battery acid. So I pulled it out of the car and have it sitting away from anything it could damage.

So would this be an issue w/ the battery or possibly the alternator over charging it?

I would have bought a new battery a week ago. It's highly likely it was at the end of its life anyway. I seldom get any more than 3 years out of one.

Yeah I was hoping it would make it until my appointment w/ the dealer on Wednesday. No such luck.

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So would this be an issue w/ the battery or possibly the alternator over charging it?

Either, but the battery internally shorting is far more likely. I almost never see an overcharge.

I hope the acid didn't harm the paint underhood. If the substance is still around, make a basic solution of baking soda and water and gently pour the solution around the battery spew. Follow with streams of water at very low velocity to avoid splashing.

AGM batteries are all the rage. Optima batteries are often $50 more expensive, and also don't fit exactly like the OEM battery. I like having the original brackets and such holding the battery down securely.

Optima batteries are total JUNK, they used to be pretty good until they moved production to Mexico a few years back and are living off of their name. Odyssey or AGM lifelines are excellent AGMs though.