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Headlight restoration -- What's the best kits or methods? Login/Join 
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Sylvania headlight restoration kit.
Several years ago, Consumer Reports rated this the best. Used this on my 2005 Pilot with very good results and held up for a few years until I traded it in.
 
Posts: 276 | Location: Stafford, VA | Registered: January 26, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I use Flitz, a terry towel and 5 minutes of elbow grease. Lasts a good year or two.




"Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy
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Posts: 13224 | Location: In the gilded cage | Registered: December 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by P250UA5:
My dad had good results wet sanding, polish, and finished up with clear coat.
But, that's on his beater Silverado, not a nice MB.

That's the way the professional detailers do it, wet sanding with increasingly finer paper then clearcoat.
 
Posts: 2561 | Location: Central Virginia | Registered: July 20, 2015Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Joie de vivre
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Before it goes to far Weather Tec makes a cover, linky, I was considering purchasing a set just to see.
 
Posts: 3871 | Location: 1,960' up in Murphy, NC | Registered: January 29, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Woke up today..
Great day!
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I've used Meguires on a few company vehicles. The ones that start with sandpaper and work their way to a polishing ball are the best. Don't be afraid to ruin the headlamp with the sandpaper. The object is to remove all the oxidized plastic and then start progressively polishing . Some have a protection application after you are done. I use Plexus regularly on plastic headlamps and it keeps them looking good with lots of UV protection.
 
Posts: 1860 | Location: Chicagoland | Registered: December 10, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Armed and Gregarious
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quote:
Originally posted by r0gue:
I know there's some serious car nuts on SF. So this has to be a good place to ask for some guidance on the best kits for cleaning up the hazy headlights on my new-to-me 20 year old MB e430. I see some that use wet sanding, and then polishes. Anyone tried these? Too extreme? Any brands to avoid, or embrace? Thanks all!
I don't know if you will be able to find something for a '98 Benz, but I bought new headlight assemblies through Amazon for my Nissan Frontier.

They were not OEM, but were a huge improvement over the 15 year old headlights, and MUCH less expensive than OEM parts. I tried "restoring" the original headlights, but the "improvement" was very slight, and extremely short lived.


___________________________________________
"He was never hindered by any dogma, except the Constitution." - Ty Ross speaking of his grandfather General Barry Goldwater

"War is the remedy that our enemies have chosen, and I say let us give them all they want." - William Tecumseh Sherman
 
Posts: 12591 | Location: Nomad | Registered: January 10, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Sounds like I should plan on replacing them in the long run. The great link Woodman provided is to a part of the assembly that seems like it can be done, but isn't really designed to be done. You essentially pry off part of an assembly and glue a new one on. I watched a YouTube where a guy did it. You have to remove the wheel well plastic to get to the bolts to remove the bumper. It's the right way to do it, so maybe I'll do that next year. For this year, I'll try a polish since I've already signed on to change all of the fluids. Which will be enough work.




 
Posts: 11474 | Registered: August 02, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Sound and Fury
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I used the 3M kit and followed up with th e Meguiers coating. After done polishing, the headlight looked new. It still does after 4 months. We'll see how long it lasts. Make sure you mask the surrounding paint.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-3900...System/dp/B001AIZ5HY




"I've spoken of the shining city all my political life, but I don't know if I ever quite communicated what I saw when I said it. But in my mind it was a tall proud city built on rocks stronger than oceans, wind-swept, God-blessed, and teeming with people of all kinds living in harmony and peace, a city with free ports that hummed with commerce and creativity, and if there had to be city walls, the walls had doors and the doors were open to anyone with the will and the heart to get here." -- Ronald Reagan, Farewell Address, Jan. 11, 1989

Si vis pacem para bellum
There are none so blind as those who refuse to see.
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Posts: 18042 | Registered: February 22, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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r0Gue, I did not even look. Sorry to tempt you. Big Grin I saw $75 and $87 as the two lenses and assumed they were gasketed items. I see the whole assembly is $225 or so. Per side.

I've dug pretty deeply into a '94 Volvo 850 Turbo to replace components - most of that car can be disassembled with a T-25 driver Smile and also into my '00 Acura TL. What I've learned? Anything can be done if you have the time.

My first foray into this stuff ... no, the first was disassembling a 1970 Honda 450CL which never was reassembled ... my first success was spending HOURS disassembling the front trim on a 1990 Mitsu Mighty Max compact pickup truck. To remove the Mitsubishi emblem in the middle of the grille.

A guy in the dealer shop where I got my "lifetime free oil changes" (until they yanked the certificate and said 'No more') looked pretty amazed when he said, "You did that?". Maybe it was disbelief. So much had to be disassembled to remove that tiny emblem without cracking the grille.

Good luck with the lens replacement. What ya gonna use to pop it apart? A good-quality forged 8" chef's knife? Wink That's the way I took the top off a cello the other day. My Wüsthof. That, and a French steak knife.
 
Posts: 8759 | Registered: March 24, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by konata88:
I use Flitz, a terry towel and 5 minutes of elbow grease. Lasts a good year or two.


This ^^^^^^^^^

Very inexpensive and little effort to redo as needed.
 
Posts: 89 | Location: North Texas | Registered: August 07, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Republican in training
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I have used the 3M kits (I'd get one kit per light if they are in bad shape) that come with the round velcro pad that you attach to a drill. Wet sanding is involved - and if you use a solid drill (powerful and able to run for extended periods, ie don't use that old drill with lousy nicad batteries your grandpa gave you 20 years ago) - they will come out looking perfect. Invest in a full bottle of the 3M headlight renewal like they provide, and a bottle of UV protectant. Use the UV protectant as the last step.

After six months or so - you can hit the headlights with the 3M Headlight Renewal by hand, to snap them back to clear again, followed by the UV stuff. UV Stuff usually goes on every few car washes too.


--------------------
I like Sigs and HK's, and maybe Glocks
 
Posts: 2289 | Location: SC | Registered: March 16, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by konata88:
I use Flitz, a terry towel and 5 minutes of elbow grease. Lasts a good year or two.


This is what I do also. Works great and takes very little material. Just a dab goes a long way. I’ve used the paper towel method. But using a buffer with a sprinkle of water works even better and last even longer.



" like i said,....i didn't build it, i didn't buy it, and i didn't break it."
 
Posts: 1327 | Location: N. Georgia | Registered: March 23, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Thank you
Very little
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Tried a couple of them, after a bit they just haze back over, generally worse than before...

You can find replacements on ebay, rock auto etc.
easier, less work, and look new.. because they are new.
 
Posts: 24668 | Location: Gunshine State | Registered: November 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
thin skin can't win
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It's just plastic. After you get them cleaned up simply apply a good quality wax (not a cleaner, a wax) and they will hold up fine.



You only have integrity once. - imprezaguy02

 
Posts: 12890 | Location: Madison, MS | Registered: December 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Rockauto has 1 ea of the halogen housings in stock.
$164 each.

HID & projector housings out of stock.

Pelican parts has them also, but at a higher cost 300-320 each, but they're OE.




The Enemy's gate is down.
 
Posts: 16289 | Location: Spring, TX | Registered: July 11, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Thank you
Very little
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$200 a pair on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Mercede...senger/dp/B074NV175V

Rockauto sells them as well,
 
Posts: 24668 | Location: Gunshine State | Registered: November 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I’ve wet sanded mine and polished. This is a good clear coat when you’re done. It’s also good for new ones to keep them from fading.
https://jet.com/product/Meguia...qEAQYASABEgJXnfD_BwE
 
Posts: 4303 | Location: Friendswood Texas | Registered: August 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thank you everyone!




 
Posts: 11474 | Registered: August 02, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by cruiser68:
I've used Meguires on a few company vehicles. The ones that start with sandpaper and work their way to a polishing ball are the best. Don't be afraid to ruin the headlamp with the sandpaper. The object is to remove all the oxidized plastic and then start progressively polishing . Some have a protection application after you are done. I use Plexus regularly on plastic headlamps and it keeps them looking good with lots of UV protection.


+1 on Plexus - originally developed for motorcycle helmets...



"And gentlemen in England now abed, shall think themselves accursed they were not here, and hold their manhoods cheap whiles any speaks that fought with us upon Saint Crispin's Day"
 
Posts: 2746 | Location: The Shire | Registered: October 22, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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