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Originally posted by cusingeorge:

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Originally posted by wrightd:

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Originally posted by cusingeorge:
This is my area of expertise, I make an excellent line of exterior wood preservatives called TWP, Total Wood Preservative. We don't however produce any kind of below-ground product, follow Arc's recommendation here.

Pressure treated lumber needs at least 6 months of weather to lower the moisture content and help remove the "mill-glaze". We tell folks to wait a year on decks before staining. For ours, or anyone else's stain to perform well, you need penetration, and wet wood will not allow a sufficient amount of stain to soak into the wood.

Go have a look at my website: http://usetwp.com/, and give us a call before you spend money on the "big box" brands.

Your TWP product gets very good reviews. I just ordered three samples of your TWP 100 series, to test for the best color for the new fence. I'm building it using pressure treated pine for the posts, stringers, and pickets.

If you have further questions, please call us at 800-262-5710 and ask for technical services, we appreciate the opportunity to show why we make a good product.

Thank You I will.

I bought a Harbor Freight moisture tester. It's not as accurate as a multi hundred dollar one and doesn't have the wood species compensation but it seems to work OK and it's cheap enough to play with anyway. It is suggested to wait until the wood is at 12% or below before staining.


https://www.harborfreight.com/...ure-meter-67143.html

Exterior wood should be at a low moisture content prior to finishing, but since conditions vary greatly, we don't usually have a specific recommendation on moisture content. For the most part, if your substrate will absorb water, it will absorb TWP. We insist the wood have at least 2 good days of dry weather after cleaning or rain prior to staining.

12% is pretty low for exterior, usually we see it around 20%.

Here's a link to our main page:

TWP Home Page

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Originally posted by cparktd:
I bought a Harbor Freight moisture tester. It's not as accurate as a multi hundred dollar one and doesn't have the wood species compensation but it seems to work OK and it's cheap enough to play with anyway. It is suggested to wait until the wood is at 12% or below before staining.


https://www.harborfreight.com/...ure-meter-67143.html

If you have access to a marine wood supplier use the 0.8CCA rated for the posts. I use 2.5 mostly because of its location on the water

Well my fence is coming along nicely. Because of the suggestions on this thread and based on my research, I am currently using the Woodlife coppercoat recommended by arc, and after painting the TWP samples from cusingeorge's company, I'm going with TWP 100 in pecan color. In addition to treating the cut ends of my stringers with coppercoat, I'm also painting the end grain with an emulsified wax, for permanent water protection.

I still haven't figured out how to premanently seal the pine architectural post caps however. After staining with TWP, I still want to put something on top to permanently seal the caps from water penetration. I'm looking to to the marine wood finising market, my thinking is if it works on a wood boat deck, it must be good.

Any more suggestions of what I could seal the post caps with, after staining with the TWP brand fence/deck oil based stain, would be welcome. One caveat is 1) since it has to go on top of the TWP 100 oil, it should not be a water based product, and 2) it needs to seal out most if not all the rain possible, and 3) it should not add any gloss or any sheen similar to finished furniture. I want them to look exactly the same color and finish as the fence boards themselves. Some type of polymerized oil perhaps, it's a little confusing since most people building fences don't seem to care about the post caps being waterproof.