quote:

Originally posted by Edmond:
Definitely get fitted. I started out riding just to ride. 2 things changed my riding:

1. Getting clipped in. Ended up riding further and faster.

2. Getting fitted. Allowed me to ride longer and therefore further.

It’s quite addicting. I’m going to get some riding on the Cross Seminole Trail at some point. Would like to ride from downtown Winter Garden to the end of that trail. When you go west, it’s a challenge with the hills in Clermont.

Cross Seminole is nice and i've done Winter Garden/West Orange a few times. Once I get my shit squared away, we should get out and hit the trails.

As caneau posted above, there is a lot of voodoo in bike fitting. It is equal parts science and art. There are objective components, but don't discount the subjective parts either.

I've been riding road bikes since the Serotta Size Cycle system was the industry gold standard. The very best article about bike fit I've ever read was the following:

How to Fit a Bicycle by Peter White

The TL;DR version is that all the objective measurements in the world won't tell you what feels comfortable to you. They can tell you what is more aerodynamic or what is producing more wattage but not what is a comfortable and sustainable riding position for you.

quote:

Originally posted by MikeGLI:
I'm in the process of buying my first full carbon road bike and a lot of shops have recommended being fitted...

I definitely recommend fitting of some level. It doesn't have to be all that expensive, but it can't be done correctly in 5 minutes. IMO there are two types of fitting -- (1) matching frame plus seat/handlebars to your size and (2) making certain clipless pedal systems don't stress your knees. Tonydec described #2 well on page #1 of this thread.

Start with the right frame size. If your bike shop doesn't have the exact bike you want, have them measure you and have them observe you on similar bikes with similar frame dimensions.

Match your gear to your primary types of rides. I'm geared pretty high, so really steep climbs require some grunting. I'm currently 53/39 up front and I think 11/25 in back.

****
At least 15 years ago I finally decided it was time to buy a true high-performance road bike -- a bike that I might ride for decades. The LBS started with asking what I wanted to do. I'm not a triathlete, so that eliminated certain bikes. I wanted a bike with some vertical flex in the frame to handle rough roads and long rides, but stiff enough to limit lateral flex while standing. After riding a number brands and models, I went with a titanium frame. I finally chose a Serotta-framed Schwinn Paramount, with Dura Ace components -- one of the last true custom-shop Schwinns.

We settled on a standard frame size that was close to my body size. Final fitting required a little tweaking of the saddle height and fore/aft position, plus changing the length of the front handlebar stem. We rotated the handlebars angle until I was comfy on both the hood and drop positions.

I went with Mavic 4-cross traditional spoked wheels with clincher tires. I ride in cross winds, so a disk wheels would result in unpleasant "sail" effects. I wanted clinchers so the tires would hold up to rough roads of both mountain and prairie rides. Given my weight of 180-185 pounds, the lightest components wouldn't hold up over the long run.


Clipless pedals make spinning more comfy and efficient. Good shoes have stiff soles, which eliminate flex in your foot's arches during the power of the stroke. Your feet will feel much better after a long ride with stiff soles.
****

I've lost count of how many century rides I've done on this bike. Many were flat-ish type centuries, but Colorado's Triple ByPass is definitely not flat. Climbing over 3 mountain passes (Loveland Pass and Vail Pass both suck), with 10,000 feet of climbing. Denver to the summit of Mount Evans and back is an ass-kicker, too.

My outdoor time on a bike is now less frequent, so most of the Paramount's duty is pre-work morning exercise on a roller trainer. I've worn out my share of tires during this, putting between 2,000 and 3,000 miles per year. I still really like this bike. Around Christmas I had a LBS install new handlebar tape and a new chain. The younger bike techs did a "whatever, it's a Schwinn", but the older techs must have told them what I had. Upon picking it up from the shop, I had two techs state that if/when I decide to sell the bike, they'd appreciate a call first.

Don't rush into buying a truly great bike. If it's the right bike/components/fit, you may ride it for a long, long time.

If someone called my Paramount "just a Schwinn" I'd likely never step foot in that shop again. It's as much a Schwinn as a Ferrari is a Fiat.

quote:

Originally posted by MikeGLI:
So the clipless/shoe research will probably be a wormhole for me. I don't want to put off the bike purchase while I figure out the pedal situation, but clipless is inevitable. Regardless, the fit won't take place until I have the pedals and shoes and I'm ready to dig in.

Don't overthink this:
You basically have two choices (if you want to avoid heartache for a lot of subtle reasons):
Shimano SPD-SL (the "road" versions) or Speedplay.

Shimano is the much more conventional clip-in pedal. I have every level, from cheapest to newest Dura Ace, and they all function exactly the same. The only difference is weight. Buy the cheapest and get on with your life. These are the classic clip-in that everyone is familiar with, but it does take a small learning curve to get used to finding the pedal and clipping in; and then forcible shoving your ankle outward to get out. You form a habit.


Speedplay is a bit "unconventional" but are actually much easier to use. You just step down on them, and you are "in". to get out, just slide your heel out effortlessly. Again, I have used these a lot. They have the advantage of "no cleat adjustment necessary". Your foot's angle is not locked in and can rotate freely. This works better for a lot of people with knee pain. They are also more expensive, but, again, the cheapest works just like the most expensive.


Whatever you choose, it is not a life-changing decision. Just start riding and see what you like. You can replace them in 6 mo or so if you find something about it you don't like.

Get fitted, but I know nothing about Reutl. Next to that, I use Crank Brothers eggbeaters for clip pedals and love them. They don't have an "up" and "down" and the locking clips on the shoe can be in a recess in the shoe sole so that you can walk in the shoes without screwing up the floor, looking like a crippled duck, or putting some kind of clip cover on.

Thank you all for the continued information.

I realize this has come up in a few posts and I want to clarify, I am 100% buying from a LBS. I've spent enough time in several shops that they all deserve my business. It's a dying breed and I want to do my part to reward them.

I'm not familiar with Retul. 20+ years ago in my semi-serious biking days, it was nothing for me and my group of friends to cycle 50-60 miles at a time. If you're doing that kind of riding, I'd HIGHLY recommend getting fitted by a reputable professional in your area. I've never been professionally fitted for my bikes (past and present) and I really wish I had been when I was riding those long hauls years back. Now at my age, I no longer ride that seriously (maybe 20 miles max at a time) and just go by the feel of everything, especially if something isn't comfortable.

I had a good buddy of mine that trained for triathlons and long-haul rides tell me it was fairly expensive (upwards of $300+ for this particular guy in my area...maybe more), but it was well worth it if you were going to do this on a serious competition level. When I bought my newest bike (lower-end Orbea), the shop from whom I bought it did an "eye-ball" fitting to make sure my pedal stroke was good and that my upper body was properly adjusted. I had to make sure on my own that my shoes/cleats were properly adjusted and that there was no extraneous pressure anywhere. It's worked out, but I doubt it would if I were riding like I used to. I use Shimano R550 SPD-SL pedals with Shimano SM-SH11 SPD-SL cleats...good, inexpensive pairing.

Just curious...what bike do you have?

For both road and mountain biking, I have only ridden with clipless pedals. SPDs as you can walk in them just fine.

I rode a Bianchi that I bought off the shop floor for a few years was averaging 3000 miles or so a year. With clips.

The biggest things with clips is getting your foot off the pedal. Before you ride clip in and out on each side 10-20 times just standing in the driveway 1 foot at a time to learn how. When you are coming up to a stop take your left foot out 20' or so before coming to a stop. Else you will fall over at the stop!!!


Fitting Prior to buying.

My second bike I did a full fitting prior to buying the bike. Based on the fit the bike was fully custom built for me. It fits like no other! I have a few other road bikes that are good but it is night and day different. I ride upwards of 5,000 miles a year. Though I have been a slacker since my accident in 2016.

Don't just go to the bike shop and have them fit you. The young people there are nice but usually, have limited real experience. You need to find someone that specializes in bike fits. Preferably someone who has extensive experience both as a cyclist and a fitter.

Lastly, get a good helmet!!! Smith Optics is the current leader in high tech next generation helmets. This is their best model IMO because it is fully Koroyd no foam. Smith Optics Bike Helmets Spend money on a helmet!!! It is money well spent!!!


A note on helmets: Most are made with styrofoam cores. This is technology from the 1940s, and it is not good enough! I know based on my own unplanned personal testing which resulted in a severe TBI, double concussion 8 days ICU, 26 days hospital ($300K+ of bills) and 3 years later I'm still recovering... Had I not been wearing a helmet I would be dead. Which given the TBI and the lasting effects, well..... it sucks.

quote:

Originally posted by SOTAR:

This is their best model IMO because it is fully Koroyd no foam.

I was not familiar with the latest helmet technology. Can you comment on why this is better, and how the $250 models are better than the $80 models ? I may want to upgrade from my Giro Aeon, which was chosen mainly for ventilation and weight. Thanks.

quote:

Originally posted by ArtieS:
Next to that, I use Crank Brothers eggbeaters for clip pedals and love them. They don't have an "up" and "down" and the locking clips on the shoe can be in a recess in the shoe sole so that you can walk in the shoes without screwing up the floor, looking like a crippled duck, or putting some kind of clip cover on.

Do the eggbeaters work with standard SPD/2 Screw shoes?

quote:

Originally posted by erj_pilot:

Just curious...what bike do you have?

BMC Roadmachine 02 Two. And I don't have it just yet, but will by next week.

I rode hard tail mtn bikes for years. I used them for everything, including a century and never had any comfort issues. I moved to IN and just lost interest as there were no mountains so I bought a road bike and was doing about a hundred miles a week. I got older(56 now)the position got more uncomfortable as I lost flexibility. I was hardly riding 100 miles a summer. Late 2017 I bought a new bike with a carbon frame, Trek SL5 Domane, while the ride is much more supple I still couldn't get comfortable so I bit the bullet and have a fitting scheduled for March 23 at this place.
http://bikefitmi.com
I really want to feel good on the bike again, constant hand numbness and adjusting my position on the saddle to ease the pain just sucks the enjoyment out of riding.

I think so, but I'm not sure. I know that the shoe part attaches with two screws.

quote:

Originally posted by ArtieS:
I think so, but I'm not sure. I know that the shoe part attaches with two screws.

Thanks, Art, that's what I was looking for.

quote:

Originally posted by MikeGLI:
Do the eggbeaters work with standard SPD/2 Screw shoes?

Yes. They do. I have used those.
They work very well.
My nit-picky complaint is that you are not secured to the pedal quite as well as with road-specific shoes, so you can feel a little mushiness when pedaling hard.

When I’ve bought my roadbike and spend about 2K on it the bike shop fit me to the bike and did not charge for it. It was a basic fitting to make sure the saddle was adjusted at the right height, etc...It worked well for me, never paid for a “whole fitting”.
My best investment were the click shoes, when you get them you will see why.(it WILL take some practice stopping and starting).
Last: Buy a heart rate monitor called “Tickr” with Wahoo app, about $100. It will count/record heart rate, cadence, trip routes plus much and the app will talk to “ Strava”. Very motivating as you can track your progress.
All in all one of the best excersizes is the road bike. Have fun!!!

So I wanted to update this thread. I got fitted and it was the best $250 I have ever spent on cycling. I am so much more comfortable I don’t think about moving around to get relief I just ride.