I'm replacing a 6x6 deck post...the old one is out, the post hole is 24" deep, cleaned out and tamped...time to install the new post. I'm thinking of putting in a couple of inches of leveling sand and placing a concrete paver in the hole as a footer. Maybe even some gravel packed with sand as a footer for the concrete paver...or should I just mixup a bag of Sakrete and pour a footer?

Here's what I did in a similar situation. The idea is to keep water away from the post.

1. Add about six inches of gravel to the base of the post hole and pack it down
2. Place the post in the hole and get it level and straight
3. Pour concrete around the post to fill the hole. Add a bit more to the top against the post. Mound some concrete by the post so water on the post will run away.

You might consider pouring the concrete and setting a post standoff into the concrete. Should the post ever rot, you could replace it without digging out the concrete.

quote:

Originally posted by FiveFiveSixFan:
You might consider pouring the concrete and setting a post standoff into the concrete. Should the post ever rot, you could replace it without digging out the concrete.

This is what I would do for a deck post.
https://express.google.com/u/0...utm_campaign=8613692

quote:

Originally posted by FiveFiveSixFan:
You might consider pouring the concrete and setting a post standoff into the concrete. Should the post ever rot, you could replace it without digging out the concrete.

This is the correct answer.

quote:

Originally posted by reflex/deflex 64:

quote:

Originally posted by FiveFiveSixFan:
You might consider pouring the concrete and setting a post standoff into the concrete. Should the post ever rot, you could replace it without digging out the concrete.

This is the correct answer.

Agreed, this does sound like the correct answer, however, I'm not sure that I have the skillset to place the standoff in it's proper place so the post is plumb, square, level and in alignment with the second story support girder. The gravel/driveway paver footer will give me the flexibility to shift things around.

quote:

Originally posted by P229 357SIG Man:

quote:

Originally posted by reflex/deflex 64:

quote:

Originally posted by FiveFiveSixFan:
You might consider pouring the concrete and setting a post standoff into the concrete. Should the post ever rot, you could replace it without digging out the concrete.

This is the correct answer.

Agreed, this does sound like the correct answer, however, I'm not sure that I have the skillset to place the standoff in it's proper place so the post is plumb, square, level and in alignment with the second story support girder. The gravel/driveway paver footer will give me the flexibility to shift things around.

There's an app for that, we'll really a Simpson strong tie for that https://www.homedepot.com/p/Si...ase-ABA66Z/100375370

quote:

Originally posted by P229 357SIG Man:

quote:

Originally posted by reflex/deflex 64:

quote:

Originally posted by FiveFiveSixFan:
You might consider pouring the concrete and setting a post standoff into the concrete. Should the post ever rot, you could replace it without digging out the concrete.

This is the correct answer.

Agreed, this does sound like the correct answer, however, I'm not sure that I have the skillset to place the standoff in it's proper place so the post is plumb, square, level and in alignment with the second story support girder. The gravel/driveway paver footer will give me the flexibility to shift things around.

An old fashioned plumb bob is your friend.

And a level, held in 3 directions.

My 6x6 are just set and poured. They will last past my life time.
There are fence corners that are still strong 20 years now around my farm.

quote:

Originally posted by ubelongoutside:
There's an app for that, we'll really a Simpson strong tie for that https://www.homedepot.com/p/Si...ase-ABA66Z/100375370

Exactly what I used.
Pour concrete into a 14" dia sonotube resting on gravel base; 36"+ deep.

Perhaps overkill, but no one ever complained that their deck was "too sturdy".

As far as accuracy of placement goes, gravity (and a plumb bob) is REALLY, REALLY, REALLY stable consistent.

IMO, no sand under a load bearing post. I don't trust it not to shift out with time.

No sand. No gravel. Nothing but concrete of your choice.

You can do it a number of ways, including letting the concrete set, and drilling a Redhed.

No less than 12" tube, to past your frost line. Local code tables will tell you what that is.

Overbuild, it's actually cheaper.

quote:

Originally posted by Haveme1or2:
My 6x6 are just set and poured. They will last past my life time.
There are fence corners that are still strong 20 years now around my farm.

My original posts are over 25 years old...they are rotting out at ground level. When I built the deck, I was able to purchase 12" diameter, 4" thick concrete pads that I placed in the holes, set the posts and filled with Sakrete.

Maybe I should delay the project by a couple of weeks and order some of these...

https://footingpad.com

quote:

Originally posted by P229 357SIG Man:
Maybe I should delay the project by a couple of weeks and order some of these...

https://footingpad.com

Last pole barn I helped with we just threw a flat rock in the bottom of the hole. Seems like a free and natural version of that... we had plenty of flat rocks.