I had my check engine light come on.
O2 sensor upstream or located on the header/exhaust manifold.

Apparently the guys on the Civic/Integra forums have this code come up if they have a modified exhaust to the point that it’s far enough from stock specs to throw a code.

Some people say its an annoying issue that comes and goes and a few said the only way to get rid of it for good is to run a different computer (OBDI) which seems quite involved.

Hopefully it was just an old 02 sensor. For $81 it was an inexpensive part and not worth rolling the dice and ignoring.



I reset the computer twice before I replaced the 02 sensor. It didn’t look terrible but I swapped the Denso O2 sensor out for a new Bosch 02 sensor (I didn’t feel like driving across town for a Denso sensor and spending the extra $8. So far it’s been running pretty good and the check engine light has not returned.

5.0 swapped Integra:

https://www.instagram.com/reel...tJUuFLTGHXf4oe4vwcEc

I remember a video in college of a guy with an EK Civic hatchback that was converted to RWD & had a Corvette LS in it. Dubbed the Civette

^^^ not quite what I was expecting.

Some pics of my Integra getting the holes in the exhaust system fixed and a new catalytic converter installed. Now it isn’t constantly throwing check engine codes due to the O2 sensor spacer and cat of unknown origin which also caused it to fail an inspection.

Once this baby is 30 years old (in 5 years) all that mess is getting removed as it will no longer require any inspections.

The spanner wrench I need to adjust my coil overs up a bit should be delivered today. Yay!!

Driving off the ramps even with blocks I managed to tear off a bit of the front splash guard which flapped in the breeze the whole way home smacking my windshield wiper reservoir. A little silicone caulk seems to have it holding rain x just fine now. All of that made for a very anxious and stressful drive as I thought the new exhaust bits were scraping. I didn’t discover the splash guard problem or windshield fluid issue until I got home. The big puddle under the car scared me bad for a second.

The honeymoon phase is still very much in effect. This car is sooooooo much fun!

Even for FWD those are great cars. I still swoon when I see ITRs from the same generation. The values for reasonably nice cars is loony and keeps going up.

They really screwed up moving to struts up front on the post-integra RSX and later civics. The front wishbone setup is special. Almost everything with that suspension from 89-01 are thrashable, slammable, lovable cars.

Keeping up with this thread is killing me. I’m so Jonesing to pick up my Tahoe and start tinkering. I’ve got title and keys in hand, I just need to pick it up in PA, so I can start tinkering.

This thread really brings up great memories from high school and college. I hope you’ll keep us updated throughout your time with this car Stickman!

quote:

Originally posted by Lt CHEG:
Keeping up with this thread is killing me. I’m so Jonesing to pick up my Tahoe and start tinkering. I’ve got title and keys in hand, I just need to pick it up in PA, so I can start tinkering.

This thread really brings up great memories from high school and college. I hope you’ll keep us updated throughout your time with this car Stickman!

I am truly excited for you and eagerly anticipating the thread you start when you bring that Tahoe home. It’s a hell of a rush driving the vehicle you have wanted for YEARS!

Keep in mind you will face some setbacks. Lord knows I’m dealing with that now but I think it’s worth it. Truth be told It’s not all smiles and rainbows. Old cars and trucks do require you put in the wrench time. They seem to almost always have something that requires your attention.

YouTube will be a great resource and if you don’t mind getting your hands dirty when the occasional issue arises….And trust me they will arise. But you will probably find that it’s very much worth the extra effort.

I’ve been pretty damn addicted to motorcycles the past few years. This Integra GSR is rekindling my love of cars.

quote:

Originally posted by stickman428:

I am truly excited for you and eagerly anticipating the thread you start when you bring that Tahoe home. It’s a hell of a rush driving the vehicle you have wanted for YEARS!

Keep in mind you will face some setbacks. Lord knows I’m dealing with that now but I think it’s worth it. Truth be told It’s not all smiles and rainbows. Old cars and trucks do require you put in the wrench time. They seem to almost always have something that requires your attention.

YouTube will be a great resource and if you don’t mind getting your hands dirty when the occasional issue arises….And trust me they will arise. But you will probably find that it’s very much worth the extra effort.

I’ve been pretty damn addicted to motorcycles the past few years. This Integra GSR is rekindling my love of cars.

Thank you! Fortunately, I’m pretty well equipped to deal with most issues. I’ve got lots of tools, a pro grade 80 gallon air compressor, and even a Mohawk 2 post lift. About the only thing I would have issues getting done is painting. I’m thinking that if I decide to change colors, and I probably will, I might invest in one of those inflatable paint booths. That might open a whole other can of worms though lol.And yes, thank God for YouTube, although I am unfortunately totally addicted lol. I’ve been watching all of Paint Society’s videos lol.

Thanks for the kind words and good luck on your project as well! I’m glad we haven’t lost you completely to the clutches of motorcycles lol.

A bit of 9k RPM ITR fun around the 'Ring

That video was great!

My father sent me this the other day along with the text that he wished he had bought the Phoenix yellow ITR with a $17k price tag that we went and looked at many many years ago. I distinctly remember telling him that these would be highly collectable classics one day to the people like me who love them.

Sometimes it sucks to be right. When I look at the current price tags of MK IV Supras with sport roofs I just shake my head. Always just out of reach….

What a wild ride! It almost makes me wish my Integra GSR wasn’t numbers matching. That K series is such a fun engine!

This thing has a faster lap time than a Tesla model S plaid.

It’s a great looking car too. I know the yellow plates are not seen much in Germany (I believe they are for commercial vehicles) but I love the blue and yellow of that front plate. They look great on silver and white vehicles.

quote:

Originally posted by stickman428:
Both the passenger and driver seats have tears across the bottom cushion but the seat backs are ok.

If I can find a decent set of cloth seats like the one I posted that’s what I’ll go with.

Check with some of the upholstery shops in your area, my EffJuanFiddy has a one year only two tone leather seats, the drivers was worn like yours after 20 years of FL heat and my big butt sliding over it.

I had found a set of leathers online, correct color as the silver centers are a metallic color, and none are available OEM... So I bought the drivers upper and lower and had the same shop do the work, they do all kinds of cars, lots of custom and restorations.

Link Facebook Page

They reconditioned all the other seats, and I need to take the drivers door card over for some of the same work, we didn't get a round to it the last time.

I bet you could recover those yourself, hog rings and a hog ring tool, some utoob videos and bobs yer uncle..

Pictures are post rejuvenation

Front


Rear

HRK, once I get the mechanical stuff sorted I am definitely going to look into options to have the leather seats reupholstered.

Your seats look FANTASTIC. I am tempted to keep the black leather but my wife shocked me when I showed her the neat looking confetti cloth seats that some Integras and Civics came with. They are both cool looking and comfy. Race seats would be ideal but I’m not sure which direction this car is going to take yet. I am tempted to build it as a weekend warrior SCCA race car but I don’t exactly live too close to locations where they hold their events.

I successfully adjusted the cheap coil overs in the front. She is still damn low and requires I drive up on wood blocks before my hydraulic Jack will fit underneath but at least now I can drive around my neighborhood without scraping on every small bump in the road.

My Skunk works Alpha 4-2-1 long header is about to have a hole ground into it if I scrape much more. Some railroad tracks yesterday beat the absolute snot out of one of the tubes. . I don’t understand low rider culture. Scraping drives my anxiety into the stratosphere….

I need to do my research on who makes quality adjustable coil over shocks because the crap on this car is cheap and unimpressive.

It has a Megan racing camber kit in the front which is why the wheels have a slight angle outward. I don’t think Megan racing is garbage but I’m still very much a noob in the world of import tuners. I’ve been more or less hopelessly obsessed with motorcycles since 2015. I used to follow the car scene but not since the early 2000’s. Hence the urge to spray a rising sun/ Japanese Naval Jack flag on my fender that looks like shit.

Overall though this car has lived up to the expectations of desperately wanting one for over TWO DECADES.

I love this car so much guys!!



Also, as a cool bonus…the space I cleaned out in my garage for the Integra will be a great work area for me to piece my blue Suzuki SV650 back together after it took a bit of a spill during s track day at VIR. I need to do an interview with the guy who crashed it. He is a pretty cool guy who had also built a gnarly e-bike. I helped consult on his build and offer advice.

That build is going to be my first YouTube channel build. I’ve got all the parts and will begin filming later this month. My son will be the camera man so it’s going to be pretty sweet. To say I’m super stoked about it would be a bit of an understatement.

Cars, motorcycles, home built e-bikes and mechanical automatic watches. I’ll be a fun channel for pretty much anyone. If I can find a good range nearby firearms will also be on the channel.

I agree on the lowering, they look cool in photos and parking lots at shows but impractical for a lot of reasons, like speed bumps, railroad tracks, putting up on a jack.

You can do a lot to improve handling without going so low it's only good on a good track surface.

Getting it back up would be a good option, then again, I don't like riding a buckboard around, there are better options...

In the first pic you can see the Megan racing camber kit in blue.


I have quite a bit of room to play with. Moving those two silver bits up the threaded tube thingy will raise the ride height.

Gotta love my detailed terminology.

If you look close you can see it was adjusted basically all the way down. So I should be able to achieve close to a stock ride height. I was a bit too cautious with my first adjustment. I’ll raise the adjustable bits another inch and see how it adjusts ride height.

Hell if I’m feeling brave enough we might be able to achieve a bit of a lift on this baby and go off-roading.

^^^Something's NOT right there. Those look like Coilovers and there should be a third Spanner Nut as the ride height should be separately adjustable from the Spring Preload. Do all four corners look like this, or at least do both fronts and both rears look the same? What kind of Coilovers are those?

When the Suspension is unloaded, the Spring should NOT be free! It should retained w/ probably 3-5mm of preload depending on the spring rate. The two Spanner Nuts locked together in that pic are for adjusting the Spring Preload...You have NONE! What is the broken thing on top of the Shock Body? The shock body should normally thread into an outer tube/housing that mounts the lower part of the Coilover to the steering knuckle. A third Spanner Nut would typically lock in that adjustment. Normally, to adjust ride height, you'd loosen the third Spanner Nut, and then use a spanner wrench on the upper spanner nut(s) to thread the entire shock assembly into or out of the lower mount, depending on which direction of adjustment is desired. Doing so wound NOT affect Spring Preload. Once you've go it where you want it, you lock the lower Spanner Nut against the lower mount/outer housing.

Hahahah good eye nhraracecraft. What we have here are some incredibly cheap coil overs that are not adjustable for preload, only for ride height. Pieces of total garbage.

What brands do you like? One of the first things I need to do VERY soon is replace these cheap/garbage coil overs.

The two up front are the same. I am assuming the rear are cheap pieces of shit too and plan on replacing them as well.

He's thinking of fully threaded coil overs, those are partially threaded, you're doing it correctly for height adjustment.

There are two different kinds of coilovers that we offer; partially threaded coilovers and fully threaded coilovers. Read on to learn how to adjust each below.


PARTIALLY THREADED COILOVERS
Partially threaded coilovers raise and lower the car by raising or lowering the height of the spring on the coilovers. With partially threaded coilovers like the one shown, to raise the car, you will turn the collars up the shock body and to lower you will turn the collars down the shock body.
To adjust the coilovers, first, unlock collar B by taking your adjustment wrench and turn it clock-wise. Once loose, spin collar B by hand down the length of the coilover. You will then use the adjustment wrench to turn collar A clockwise to lower and counter-clockwise to raise the car. Once you have the perches adjusted to where you want it, spin collar B back up against collar A and use both provided adjustment wrenches to lock the collars against each other. To lock, turn collar B counter-clockwise and collar A clockwise.


FULLY THREADED COILOVERS
Fully threaded coilovers have independent ride height adjustment and spring pre-load adjustment. To adjust the ride height of a fully threaded kit, unlock collar C by using the supplied adjustment wrench by turning the wrench counter-clockwise. Once collar C is loose, spin the lower spindle mount up or down the length of the coilover. To raise the car, you will lengthen the coilover, to lower the car; you will shorten the length of the coilover.

You can also adjust the ride height without having to unbolt the lower spindle mount by turning collar A or B but make sure that before doing so, that collars A and B are tightened against each other. Once collar C is loose, you will turn collar B counter-clockwise to raise the car or you will turn collar A clockwise to lower the car. Once the ride height is right where you want it, you will then tighten collar C against the lower spindle mount.

Link

I just put BC Racing BR Series Coilovers on my '09 Volvo S60...



I had two broken front springs, the car had 230K miles on the original struts, plus the Control Arm Bushings were shot! At $1195.00 the BR Series Coilovers were less than new struts...And now I have a fully adjustable suspension!



It was a BIG project...I basically replaced EVERYTHING, so Coilovers, Front Lower Control Arms, Ball Joints, Inner & Outer Tie Rods, End Links for the Anti-Roll Bars (Front & Rear), plus I installed Adjustable Toe Links in the Rear! I also replaced all of the hardware as almost everything was TTY (Torque-to-Yield) anyway.

BC gets a lot of mention on some of the UK channels I watch on YT [CarThrottle & AutoAlex]

KW is another, but $$$