Yesterday I turned on the kitchen sink water and after several seconds, the water was coming out HOT- obviously far hotter than normal. I was intending to run to Lowe’s this am and procure and install new thermostats, and now there’s no hot water. How can I tell exactly what is actually wrong with it? I think I’m capable of doing both heating elements and thermostats, but obviously don’t want to burn money I don’t need to. The unit in question is @about 25 years old. Thanks in advance.

Quick update- hit the reset button on the upper thermostat and the water heater started ticking. Waited a few minutes and it hadn’t yet popped off again. Given the low cost and given the age of this unit (verified 23 years old), I’m considering simply replacing both thermostats and both heating elements. Any reason to believe this is not a good choice?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: gearhounds,

I had the same problem way back when. Steam coming out of the tap was our clue!

Replacing one of thermostats was the solution.

I’m fairly certain I have it figured out. After over an hour, it is once again producing HOT water. I will test appropriate contact points to rule out a bad element but all signs point to a bad thermostat.

I must say . Wow you have 23 years on the hot water heater. Very good . Must have good soft water there.

Replace the thermostats. The elements just do what they are told.

Lowes sells the kits with new stats and elements. Do them all.

Also make sure your pressure relief valve on the water heater is also working. They sell those as well.

Have you ever replaced the anode bars?

No way would I get 23 years out of a heater around here. 8-10 is tops.

You can get out cheap now but I would be looking at a replacement pretty soon.

Home Depot has the full kit of both thermostats and elements. My plan is to replace both thermostats and see how it responds. After 23 years in a hard water area (softening system the whole life of the unit) I’m reluctant to disturb any sediment if I don’t have to. I know I’m on borrowed time on the heater- I’ll probably get a unit in mind so when it eventually goes tits up, I can get the process started immediately.

Just check the upper element for resistance. It's likely a broken upper element causing the lower element to overhead the water.

Just checking in. Make sure you put a new TP valve on it. Yours should have opened with water that hot

Well, I may have figured out my issue. When I pulled the lower cover off after the circuit breaker, I discovered that the lower element was leaking and had over a very long time, filled up the space up to where it grounded at the lower element itself. Popped the breaker for the heater. Time to head under the house with the repair pack…

Check carefully that the weld around the element thread is not the leak. When the threadolet is welded in it can disturb the inner tank epoxe liner. Also a 220 element should draw 18.4 amps. If amperage draw off it can trick the thermostat into staying on.

23 years?!

That's almost double the usual lifespan.

The culprit appears to be the lower element; upper element is good with the expected ohms of resistance when power is removed. Lower element is zero, educating a dead element. I replaced both thermostats and spent a solid hour trying to get both elements out but they’re locked in place. If the hvac guys I use can’t bethel loose, I’m in it for a new unit I suppose. Fingers crossed but given the age of the unit, I’m mentally prepared for the greater of two evils.

Are you using an element socket tool to remove it? Sometimes, if it's stuck, trying to tighten it just a little can help break it free. Also, find a longer screwdriver to stick through the holes in the socket.

I just replaced a 2009 40 gallon electric. It was leaking out the top. It had not been used in several years. It looked pretty good from a visual inspection so I thought it was good to go. Nope. Instead of screwing with it. Went to domo hepot and bought a new 40 gallon Rheem and swapped it out. Problem solved. That was not in the renovation budget but..

quote:

Originally posted by gearhounds:
The culprit appears to be the lower element; upper element is good with the expected ohms of resistance when power is removed. Lower element is zero, educating a dead element. I replaced both thermostats and spent a solid hour trying to get both elements out but they’re locked in place. If the hvac guys I use can’t bethel loose, I’m in it for a new unit I suppose. Fingers crossed but given the age of the unit, I’m mentally prepared for the greater of two evils.

Are you using an element socket? Use an element socket and a 24" socket extension or any piece of steel that will fit through the hole in the socket. Fashion it in a T-style position to increase the amount of torque you can apply. They are tight but I've replaced 20 year old elements before. Also, when you remove the lower element expect to need a shop vac and a piece of hose if you want to remove the sediment sitting on the bottom.

I tried using the element socket and could not get a bit of movement. The wrench keeps slipping off and rounding corners so I’m going to try and get my hands on an appropriately sized socket wrench with a breaker bar. I’m thinking after so much borrowed time, I might be looking at a full replacement.

As an aside, when Ivdrained the unit into the sump, the water was surprisingly completely free of any sediment. My well is drilled to 680’ and the pump hangs right around 400… I’m suspecting it doesn’t suck up any sediment at all from the huge water column.

I think you'll probably have even more slipping with a standard 1 1/4" socket than the element wrench since it's chamfered on the mouth. The element uses rubber to seal out water and not the threads so it should come out. Also, I've never had much luck draining sediment out of the drain because pieces are usually way too large to fit through it. You'll probably be surprised what is actually in the bottom once you get the element out and see.

Here’s to hoping the professionals can get the elements free. I’m pretty strong for my age, and even pushing against the element with all my strength couldn’t make it budge before the wrench slipped. I’m hoping for a 1/2 hour visit from the hvac guys but am prepared for the worst news financially.

Elements would not budge. The bearing surface was just rounding off corners. In addition, rust was pretty rampant. 23 years of hard water solutes building up didn’t help. New unit was up and running at about 7pm. An hour or so to heat up and we’re back in modern society. Thanks for all the input all. I guess I can’t complain about a 23 year run, especially in a karst region.

^ no, you got basically two lifespans out of it. They are consumable items and expect failure in or around 10y