We have a built in gas log sealed unit Fireplace, it was installed when the house was built and worked fine for several years.
About 10 years ago it would light but not stay lit, had a company look at it, replace regulators, gas line valves etc and still no Joy.. The unit would initially light, but then the flame would go out, we thought it was a fuel problem (LP Unit).
However once he would unseal the glass door the flames would burn without issue, leading the conclusion to be an oxygen starvation issue.
The exhaust is straight out the back of the unit through a block wall covered with stucco, I can remove the cap but that's it, the next three screws are up by the wall but it's stucco'd into the wall.
I'm thinking some critter(s) built a nest at one time and blocked the feed, theres no odor so pretty sure it's not a crypt of dead vermin.
It's a Heat n Glo Model 6000 GDV made by GTI and a Propane model.
Any thoughts on how to go forward, wonder if a duct cleaning company could get in there to vacuum it out, pulling the unit would require removing a stone facade which isn't a problem to have done, but necessary to get it out.
Do these unit draw air from inside the home or outside, could a blocked exhaust do the same since it can't exchange air.
February 07, 2020, 02:02 PM
rexles
I am pretty sure those have to have a fresh air intake. I could be somewhere different than the exhaust. Under the unit? Sounds like it is a lack of combustion air problem. I would have company that works specifically on those type of gas fire places look at it. Maybe a chimney sweep also.
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February 07, 2020, 05:55 PM
HRK
We have a company coming out Monday. Just want to be prepared on what might be the issue
February 07, 2020, 06:05 PM
chellim1
quote:
However once he would unseal the glass door the flames would burn without issue, leading the conclusion to be an oxygen starvation issue.
Sounds like you're on the right track. Fuel, spark, air. It sounds like air is the problem.
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February 07, 2020, 06:18 PM
cjevans
Something to check yourself.
Is the flame sensor tip clean? Dirty or broken?
Clean the pilot light tube ... use a wooden toothpick. A build up of ash/carbon will block.
I had a similar issue with an other make/model. A certfied gas plumber company came out to inspect air, spark and exhaust. Said everything good now.
Nope, same problem, the company said sorry, replace it.
Looking at the problem myself, I saw that the gas flame from the pilot tube wasn't coming out of the end of the tube, but from the air hole at the base of the pilot tube.
The heater would light, then once a certain temperature had been reached, would shut off. The pilot flame would revert from the end of the tube to that air hole.
Cleaned the flame sensor - scraping away the carbon; and cleaned out the pilot tube and that air hole at the base, with a wooden toothpick.
All good now ...
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Appliance lights and runs for a few minutes then shuts down and/or appliance cycle ON and OFF with less than 60 sec of ON time.
Shorted or loose connection in flame detection circuit.Check if white sense lead is securely connected to ‘S’ terminal of IFT-ECM. Check resistance of sense lead between sense rod tip and connector to IFT-ECM, should be less than 1 ohm - if not, replace pilot assembly. Check system ground, ensure black valve harness wire is securely attached to metal chassis. Check wiring for damage. With system OFF, check resistance between tip of sense rod and pilot hood, should be resistance (>1 M-ohm). Poor flame rectification or contaminated sense rod. With glass assembly installed, verify pilot flame is engulfing flame sense rod on pilot assembly. Verify inlet gas pressure is correct for gas type. Polish flame sense rod with fine steel wool to remove any contaminants that may have accumulated. Verify no soot deposits are in sense rod to pilot hood gap.Logs are set up wrong. Remove and re-install logs per the log placement instructions.Damaged pilot assembly.Verify the pilot assembly ceramic insulator around the flame sensing rod is not cracked, damaged or loose. Check re-sistance between tip of sense rod and IFT-ECM connector, should be less than 1 ohm. Replace pilot assembly if damage is detected.
Also check and see if it has a valve recall listed here:
Make sure pilot is not immediately below the grate or thermocouple in burner flame. If the thermocouple gets too hot, it will shut the valve off. I battled this for a couple of month before I learned that little piece of info...
February 07, 2020, 08:06 PM
wcb6092
quote:
Originally posted by mjlennon: Operate with the doors open.
Make sure pilot is not immediately below the grate or thermocouple in burner flame. If the thermocouple gets too hot, it will shut the valve off. I battled this for a couple of month before I learned that little piece of info...
He has a sealed unit Fireplace. It may not be safe to burn with the door open.It is not an unvented fireplace and may produce carbon monoxide at unsafe levels.This message has been edited. Last edited by: wcb6092,
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February 07, 2020, 08:38 PM
mjlennon
quote:
Originally posted by wcb6092:
quote:
Originally posted by mjlennon: Operate with the doors open.
Make sure pilot is not immediately below the grate or thermocouple in burner flame. If the thermocouple gets too hot, it will shut the valve off. I battled this for a couple of month before I learned that little piece of info...
He has a sealed unit Fireplace. It may not be safe to burn with the door open.It is not an unvented fireplace and may produce carbon dioxide at unsafe levels.
So noted, I have the vented variety. HRK, please disregard opening the doors suggestion.
February 08, 2020, 05:10 AM
Blume9mm
Yep, what you have is a direct vent gas fireplace...
I think what is going on is is the pilot light sensor (could be a thermocouple or electronic) how ever that is designed.... this is a millivolt system and probably runs off a wall switch.... the pilot light is creating less than one volt to turn the gas on and if that is interrupted... it turns the whole thing off...
A good chimney sweep can figure it out.
Except for working on it, the glass front needs to be left on....
It's not carbon dioxide that is the worry, but CARBON MONOXIDE. The more likely danger with any of these is actually sooting up your house... Direct vent gas is good... but:
As for: "Un-Vented or Ventless" this is one of the worst inventions of the 20th century and the only reason they are still around is the manufactures are still making more money off selling them than they are paying out in law suits... Read the instructions on one of these... First rule: you need to have a window or door open when operating. It actually goes down hill from there....