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In my double oven, there are two cooling fans behind the panel. One is not running during self clean, so I need to determine if I have voltage flowing through to each. I have a very basic voltage tester. The type with two metal prongs that you can stick in an outlet and it'll light up if there is 120. For my application, I am not sure what I need to touch each prong to. Do these tools only work by touching exposed wire, or can i touch it to any insulated wire, or other components of the fan assembly? I assume one is to ground to complete the circuit. . . Thank in advance for any help. | ||
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| Thank you Very little  |
are you sure both should run during that cycle? Does it run during a normal convection cooking cycle? Set it to convection and turn it on see if both run before you start taking things apart. | |||
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| Member |
That type of tester would generally contact with a bare wire or exposed terminal. It's unlikely that a factory installation like that will have exposed terminals. More likely, there will be a pigtail connection with a wire nut a few inches away from the motor. There are non-contact voltage testers as well. https://www.amazon.com/Klein-T...pid=60510211606&th=1 | |||
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Member |
One prong goes to the live wire on the cooling fan circuit, one goes to ground. This will only work when the circuit is energized of course. There are inductive voltage detectors, but it sounds like you have the type that will have to be physically touched to exposed wire. "The people hate the lizards and the lizards rule the people." "Odd," said Arthur, "I thought you said it was a democracy." "I did," said Ford, "it is." "So," said Arthur, hoping he wasn't sounding ridiculously obtuse, "why don't the people get rid of the lizards?" "It honestly doesn't occur to them. They've all got the vote, so they all pretty much assume that the government they've voted in more or less approximates the government they want." "You mean they actually vote for the lizards." "Oh yes," said Ford with a shrug, "of course." "But," said Arthur, going for the big one again, "why?" "Because if they didn't vote for a lizard, then the wrong lizard might get in." | |||
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| Not as lean, not as mean, Still a Marine  |
What brand of oven? My Whirlpool has a great nice that actually shows the rpm's of the fan. Maybe yours had something similar? I shall respect you until you open your mouth, from that point on, you must earn it yourself. | |||
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| Leatherneck |
It isn’t the right tool. Are you sure the fans are supposed to even get 120v? I don’t know much about ovens but I’d think the fans would get a lower voltage in. “Everybody wants a Sig in the sheets but a Glock on the streets.” -bionic218 04-02-2014 | |||
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safe & sound |
That's what I was thinking. | |||
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| The success of a solution usually depends upon your point of view |
What is the make and model of your stove? Also, can you post a picture of your tester? “We truly live in a wondrous age of stupid.” - 83v45magna "I think it's important that people understand free speech doesn't mean free from consequences societally or politically or culturally." -Pranjit Kalita, founder and CIO of Birkoa Capital Management | |||
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Member |
It sounds like you have a tester that is specifically meant to test 110vac outlets/GFCIs. Rigging it to test in this circumstance would be sketchy. Pony up $80-100 for a decent clamp DMM. Klein is a decent unit and available at Home Depot. They are very handy tools to have. I would be willing to bet the convection fan is at least 110vac. With a full feature meter you can trace the issue to its fault (within reason). If you have voltage at the motor terminals, likely a bad motor with an open winding. This can be confirmed with the meter. If you have no voltage, trace back to a fuse or failed relay on the logic board. Of course, as mentioned, make sure the fan is in fact supposed to be running during these tests. | |||
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