SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  The Lounge    Rust removal??
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Rust removal?? Login/Join 
Member
posted
Had some tools in a tote that water got into and rusted them, now need to try and salvage them. Anyone have a good remedy??


_________________________________________________

"Once abolish the God, and the Government becomes the God." --- G.K. Chesterton
 
Posts: 3856 | Location: WNY | Registered: April 11, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of BlackTalonJHP
posted Hide Post
Electrolysis or Evapo-Rust
 
Posts: 1057 | Location: Texas | Registered: September 18, 2019Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Three Generations
of Service
Picture of PHPaul
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by BlackTalonJHP:
Electrolysis or Evapo-Rust


^^^ Word.




Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent.
 
Posts: 15174 | Location: Downeast Maine | Registered: March 10, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Kroil and elbow grease

Tooth brush/gun brush, some 0000 steel wool, a beer or four, toss on some music or the TV and get to work.


______________________________________________________________________
"When its time to shoot, shoot. Dont talk!"

“What the government is good at is collecting taxes, taking away your freedoms and killing people. It’s not good at much else.” —Author Tom Clancy
 
Posts: 8313 | Location: Attempting to keep the noise down around Midway Airport | Registered: February 14, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
BlackTalon in for the win with Evapo-rust!!
Looks like my kind of stuff! Sir, if you email me your address I will send you some BlackTalons!


_________________________________________________

"Once abolish the God, and the Government becomes the God." --- G.K. Chesterton
 
Posts: 3856 | Location: WNY | Registered: April 11, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
semi-reformed sailor
Picture of MikeinNC
posted Hide Post
Evapo-rust.

You could boil it and convert the rust to non-iron oxide.

But I’d just go the evapo rust way



"Violence, naked force, has settled more issues in history than has any other factor.” Robert A. Heinlein

“You may beat me, but you will never win.” sigmonkey-2020

“A single round of buckshot to the torso almost always results in an immediate change of behavior.” Chris Baker
 
Posts: 11233 | Location: Temple, Texas! | Registered: October 07, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of P250UA5
posted Hide Post
Ospho could be an option as well. Worked wonders on the chassis on my project car.




The Enemy's gate is down.
 
Posts: 15130 | Location: Spring, TX | Registered: July 11, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Electrolysis can be fun with an plastic tub, some scrap wire like a coat hanger, and an old battery charger. If you reverse the polarity, you can add rust to things or plate them.
 
Posts: 2357 | Registered: October 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of BlackTalonJHP
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by wreckdiver:
BlackTalon in for the win with Evapo-rust!!
Looks like my kind of stuff! Sir, if you email me your address I will send you some BlackTalons!


Thanks for the offer, but I can't accept. Very generous of you though.
 
Posts: 1057 | Location: Texas | Registered: September 18, 2019Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Banned for
showing his ass
posted Hide Post
I have found some old rusty tools and made them good again by soaking a day or two in straight white vinegar ... followed by a rinse and soak in baking soda and water to neutralize any of the leftover white vinegar. I then rinse well, dry and spray with dry silicone.
 
Posts: 3190 | Location: PNW | Registered: November 16, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Take a large glass pot and fill it with water to the top. Put it on your largest burner on your stove. Place you tools in that pot of water and turn the burner on high. Plan on boiling those tools for a total of 3 hours or so. Note, take them out every 45 minutes and brush any loose stuff with a bronze bristle brush. When they are all finished you'll see that your tools are now Black. That is Black Oxide and when you heat rusty steel in the absence of Oxygen you convert Red Rust to Black Oxide. All that needs to be done at this point is to oil the surface with Water Displacing Oil Formula 40, otherwise known as WD-40. Yeah that terrible lubricant is actually a rust preventative.

PS; this process is commonly called Rust Bluing and one amazing aspect of this process is that tools that pliers that are rusted in position will usually come totally free when the process is completed. I once found a wood rasp that had been left in a pile of damp sawdust for at least a year and looked like a ball of rust and after biling it for 3 hours it was sharp and evenly colored black. Still use that rasp when I need to do some contouring on a bit of wood.


I've stopped counting.
 
Posts: 5599 | Location: Michigan | Registered: November 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Firearms Enthusiast
Picture of Mustang-PaPa
posted Hide Post
A very long time ago ( before internet days ) I needed to de rust some tools and picked up some Navel Jelly which worked quite well as I recall but do wear rubber gloves throughout the process as I recall I did not and my hands were rust stained for months before that crap wore off.
 
Posts: 18013 | Location: South West of Fort Worth, Tx. | Registered: December 26, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of maladat
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Mustang-PaPa:
A very long time ago ( before internet days ) I needed to de rust some tools and picked up some Navel Jelly which worked quite well as I recall but do wear rubber gloves throughout the process as I recall I did not and my hands were rust stained for months before that crap wore off.


Naval Jelly and Ospho are chemically the same - the active ingredient is phosphoric acid - the only difference is that Naval Jelly has a consistency like Vaseline and Ospho is a liquid.

For small tools, either is fine because you can just fill a container with Ospho and dunk the tool in it.

For bigger stuff, naval Jelly is great because you can just smear it wherever you need to and it will stay there. For example, I used it on the column of my floor-standing drill press.

The phosphoric acid reacts with iron oxide (rust) to produce iron phosphate, which is pretty unreactive.

This is basically incomplete Parkerization.

It's pretty nasty stuff but it works really well.
 
Posts: 6319 | Location: CA | Registered: January 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of iron chef
posted Hide Post
I also recommend Evapo-rust.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: Texas | Registered: June 17, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
delicately calloused
Picture of darthfuster
posted Hide Post
I have a neighbor who runs a dealership body shop. He had some considerably rusted metal parts that he placed in a plastic tub with a muriatic acid and water solution. I don't know the ratios but I'm sure it's info available online. Anyway, soaked the parts overnight and they came out clean bare metal. Muriatic acid can be bought at most home improvement stores. Don't get any on ya. Water is the solution if'n you do.



You’re a lying dog-faced pony soldier
 
Posts: 29592 | Location: Highland, Ut. | Registered: May 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of lithog
posted Hide Post


---------------------------
"Welcome to Tennessee, patron state of shootin' stuff." Bob Lee Swagger, THE SHOOTER
 
Posts: 1215 | Location: Memphis,Tenn.,USA | Registered: October 15, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ammoholic
Picture of Skins2881
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by darthfuster:
I have a neighbor who runs a dealership body shop. He had some considerably rusted metal parts that he placed in a plastic tub with a muriatic acid and water solution. I don't know the ratios but I'm sure it's info available online. Anyway, soaked the parts overnight and they came out clean bare metal. Muriatic acid can be bought at most home improvement stores. Don't get any on ya. Water is the solution if'n you do.


Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid, be very careful with it. I decided if x parts to one is good then x/2 parts to one of water is twice as good. It's not. I've also for shits and grins dropped something seriously rusted in it without dilution, I'm quite lucky I didn't injure myself.



Jesse

Sic Semper Tyrannis
 
Posts: 20739 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata  
 

SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  The Lounge    Rust removal??

© SIGforum 2024