Last year, I replaced the pressure switch on our water well tank.
The new switch required pressing a spring loaded lever, for about a minute, to start the pump refilling the pressure tank. That was a new one on me, and I forgot to get an explanation for this new feature from the brain trust.
The cold weather has just reminded me to ask someone to clue me in on why the need for the lever feature because using it is not working now, to start the pump refilling the tank.
The only thing we’ve done was cut the power and drain our water lines. I’m unable to physically do much right now, so any troubleshooting instructions need to be wife doable right now.
What part of the system could fail as a result of 5 days of not being used?

Sounds like your type of switch has a low pressure cut out to protect the pump from low water pressure due to possible low water or a very large leak. I replaced mine with a standard switch due to the switch was 50' from the crawl space entrance.

Possible frozen line not allowing water to reach the tank?

That's a deep subject...

Do you have power to the switch and going to the pump?

Are you sure the valve is open?

Just a few simple things to check, sorry I can't be of more help

quote:

Originally posted by hvactech:
Sounds like your type of switch has a low pressure cut out to protect the pump from low water pressure due to possible low water or a very large leak. I replaced mine with a standard switch due to the switch was 50' from the crawl space entrance.

This is correct. Low pressure cutoff. I have the same on my well. While it can be a pain it could prevent burning up the well pump. If the lever doesn't kick in the pump there is an electrical problem. All the lever does is close the contacts.

I don't think your initial post indicates any specific problem. The purpose of the spring loaded lever is so that, if your well ran dry, the pressure would drop off to zero and then your pump would shut off rather than burning itself up continuing to run dry. Restarting it should just involve closing all faucets and any open drain valves then manually holding the lever to start it back up. You may get some kind of violent spitting at each faucet the first time you open it up after the restart while the air bleeds out.

I got good news and I got bad news.
Tried to start the pump once more and it worked!

It also revealed a crack in the valve on the discharge line. That, I can deal with. When you live in the country you keep replacement parts.

BTW, thanks for the low pressure explanation.

quote:

Originally posted by hvactech:
Sounds like your type of switch has a low pressure cut out to protect the pump from low water pressure due to possible low water or a very large leak.I replaced mine with a standard switch due to the switch was 50' from the crawl space entrance.

This. Wasn't really aware there was another sort, actually.

On my well after draining, relieving pressure to change parts or repair.
I have to pressurize my pressure tank before turning on the pump.
After the tank fills I'll run the water and check the cut in pressure and the cut off pressure.