I am a relatively new owner of a BX2380, which I have already put over 50 hours on since May/June. Trying to not simply repeat the great advice already in this thread, I will just add some of my (limited) experiences, and some details of my setup.

1. The SSQA pallet forks changed my life.....it totally reset how I approach things, and has saved my back many times already. If your machine has the quick attach front bucket, consider getting the fork set, you will be amazed at how often you use them.

2. I have the BXpanded skid plate. I am planning on adding bucket chain hooks, and I will go bolt-on, as my welding skills are suspect. I will get them from here: Ken’s Bolt On Hooks

3. Lighting - you will want to add rops mounted LEDs, the advice above covers the details quite well.

4. Box blades rock. That is all.

5. The 3-point check chains (turnbuckles) suck for switching between attachments of differing widths. I have a set of these on order: Stabilworks

I can’t wait to get them, but they are a long wait (9 month or so lead time, but made in the USA by hand).

Overall I love my machine, I am sure you will too, they are tons of fun.

What are some things you’ve used the forks for? I’m having trouble seeing how they would be useful for me. Once I have bolt on bucket hooks, that seems like it would cover most lifts for me.

I’m also curious about the telescoping stabilizers. Let us know how they are!

Do you have a pickup or a trailer?

Do you ever need to load anything heavier than you can lift with your back?

Ever need to move a pile of brush or a bunch of lumber?

Forks are one of those things you didn't know you needed until you had them. With the SSQA (Skid Steer Quick Attach) system, you can drop the bucket and pick up the forks in under a minute. Add a pallet to load random stuff on and you'll be amazed at how often you use them.

The extendable hitch ends and telescoping stabilizers are the crowning touch to the 3PH system. An order of magnitude better than fixed ends and chain stabilizers. If you need to hook up to a wider implement or want to offset it to one side or the other it's a matter of seconds. Pull the pins, move it over, pop the pins back in. PLUS they limit travel in both directions - both in toward the hitch and out towards the tires. Without an implement attached, chain stabilizers just let the lower arms flop around. On my old JD with chains, I had to keep a bungee cord handy to lash the arms together for those times I was using the tractor with no implement on the back or the arms would flop into the tires.

quote:

Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:
What are some things you’ve used the forks for? I’m having trouble seeing how they would be useful for me. Once I have bolt on bucket hooks, that seems like it would cover most lifts for me.

That's going to cost you a lot of time rigging chains to lift things, when, with forks, you just slide them under and away you go. What about lifting something on a pallet? I cannot begin to list all the things I've lifted with my forks, but I keep them on the front about 75% of the time (vs the bucket). The nice thing about the Kubota pallet fork frame is that it puts the frame and rear of the forks back at the pivot point of the front end hydraulics, thus maximizing your limited lifting capacity. It is a complete set of forks and frame, so you can tilt your load back against the frame while you move it, instead of having it swinging from some chains. For just a simple lift, pick it up and put it down somewhere, like unloading from a pickup, it is doable with chains. But if you want to move a load any distance that's a different matter.

Ok ok.

You guys are going to cost me more money.

My fork list. logs, pallets, tanks, trash of various kinds, bales, heavy tools (like when you want to move your table saw), lumber and building supplies (like that 8x8 PT), construction (like holding up the sill while you pour a new support and a zillion more. Get the forks.

I use my Land Pride forks as much as I use the bucket, I never thought I would.

Questions about securing to a trailer:

I keep hearing that the DOT requires four chains, each implement to have its own chain, etc., but I can't find that in writing at the state level or otherwise. Anyone have some experience with this?

I was planning on one 20' 5/16" Grade 70 chain in the front. I would hook one end to the trailer, wrap it around the axle (or front loader), hook it to the other side of the trailer, and use a chain ratchet to tighten. The rear would be similar with one chain and one ratchet binder.

I'm also finding conflicting information on the BX23S backhoe. Some say the securing pins should be removed and it should be dropped to the bed and chained, others say leave in the hefty pins and secure the rear of the tractor to the trailer instead. Thoughts?

Technically, that is correct, but typically, DOT doesn't bother with the non-commercial little guy hauling his tractor. That may vary from state to state or region to region.

When I hauled my backhoe, I used three chains. One through the loader frame on the front, one through the hoe mount on the back, and one across the bucket. I lowered the outriggers and set the boom/bucket down on the deck of the trailer.


Other tips:

1. Use the gold-colored chain if you have a choice. That's a quick visual confirmation that you have the right grade of chain.

2. Avoid using straps. That's a whole Ford vs. Chevy kind of argument, but if they see Grade 70 chains, there's nothing to argue about.

3. Check the ratchet binders at the first stop. No matter how tight you think they are when you leave, they'll frequently loosen up after a few miles.

When I trailer mt BX23S (rare) I chain each corner. I leave the rear bucket attached but tilt the bucket so the front teeth are resting on the trailer bed.
I don't have room between the trailer wheel wells to lower the two outriggers to the trailer bed. I would rather leave the tractor rear tires sitting between the trailers two axles than pull it further forward on the trailer so I could drop the stabilizers the load is plenty secure without the stabilizers dropped.
I tow the tractor on a 10,000# 20' trailer. I tow with a Jeep Commander(7500# capacity). I would rather not increase the tongue weight, The Jeep does not like any more tongue weight plus,if I bring the forks with I have room to secure them under the front loader on the front of the trailer.

That's kind of what I figured on the DOT side of the house. Also completely agree on the straps vs chains. The idea of a very sudden stop with a strapped tractor is not appealing. I don't want my tractor ending up in the bed of my Tacoma.

I'll check out if the stabilizers can even be deployed on my trailer. It may not be wide enough, but I'm curious now. I'll plan on leaving the swivel pin in the back hoe, but removing the pin that allows the bucket to drop to the deck.

Technically if your following DOT rules regarding equipment tie down. Machines over 10K in weight require 4 chain tie down, under 10K is two. However your backhoe if you have one attached needs a chain across the back hoe bucket in addition to those chains holding the machine down. Your correct, if your not running commercially, DOT doesn't have much to say to you. You then would fall under whatever your State law has to say about equipment tie down. Following their guidelines is a good idea, simply because it is a safe way to transport your equipment. You get in a wreck and your poorly tied down tractor ends up inside a van full of missionaries, your tie down method will matter.