If you have the Kubota quick change front, they also make a pallet fork frame for that setup that is very useful. A full frame with adjustable forks, and with the lift/pivot point right back at the hookup, for maximum lift capability. Much better than forks that just clamp onto the bucket.
 
Welding a couple of chain grab hooks to the top edge of the bucket is a small but very useful mod.
 
I like to stand up when positioning the forks, (using low range only), so bypassing the seat shut-off switch was a must.

I have the hooks that are welded on my bucket and find them extremely handy for all sorts of lifting and pulling. Cheap mod that works. Mine is a B2920.

https://www.batterytender.com/

YOu can buy them most any place, surprised the dealer doesn't sell them, Attach the quick connect harness to the battery and it's a simple plug in event when you park.

quote:

What is a “battery tender”?

quote:

Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:

I’m also tempted to wire in, or just use the 12V outlet, for a small inverter for a Bose Bluetooth speaker. I could mount the speaker to the ROPS.

Nothing like blaring 80s techno while bush hogging. The neighbors are going to love me.

quote:

The damn little Kubota diesel engines are loud.
At working engine RPM's, soon you will be deaf.....

I couldn't imagine how loud your music would have to be to hear over the engine clatter and HST whine....... loud enough that it wouldn't be a neighborly thing to do though. When I'm on my tractor (or motorcycle) I enjoy the symphony coming from the machine itself.

Hooks welded on the top of your bucket come in useful for pulling and lifting stuff. This is an old image of just some of the logs I moved with my B7500 just using straps around the bucket. In retrospect I should have bought a pallet fork even though that machine did not have a quick attach bucket.
If you anticipate moving a lot of brush, logs, rocks, etc you could consider a light weight grapple, but for that you'll need a third hydraulic function plumbed to the front. I have this on my current Kubota and use it quite a lot but much of what you do with a grapple you can accomplish with pallet forks. Again get light forks so they don't use up so much of the FEL's lift capacity. Great machine BTW enjoy and be safe with it.

quote:

Originally posted by cee_Kamp:
The damn little Kubota diesel engines are loud.
At working engine RPM's, soon you will be deaf.
When running machinery, most of the time it's good to hear what's going on.
Ear plugs or muffs.
When I do snow removal or mowing, sometimes I break out an Apple ipod and in-the-ear corded ear buds. Seriously, that diesel Kubota will ruin your hearing if you don't take proper precautions.

In hindsight, this makes sense. I hadn't been on it for for than some brief uses, so it didn't seem too loud at the time. My Sordin Pro muffs have an aux jack. Looks like it's iPod time!

The lift hooks will definitely be added. I was looking at: https://www.boltonhooks.com/kubota-quick-attach/

PTO shaft question: I'm not finding mucy info on PTO shafts in the manual. I need to get one for the bush hog, but I don't feel like I have enough information. The manual tells me how to shorten a shaft, but not which type to get! Is this something fairly generic I can grab at the local TSC, or should I be more careful?

quote:

Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:

In hindsight, this makes sense. I hadn't been on it for for than some brief uses, so it didn't seem too loud at the time. My Sordin Pro muffs have an aux jack. Looks like it's iPod time!

The lift hooks will definitely be added.

PTO shaft question: I'm not finding mucy info on PTO shafts in the manual. I need to get one for the bush hog, but I don't feel like I have enough information. The manual tells me how to shorten a shaft, but not which type to get! Is this something fairly generic I can grab at the local TSC, or should I be more careful?

+1 on the muffs. I even take my hearing aids out and put the muffs on. The hydro whine in the cab is loud enough to be physically uncomfortable without protection.

Yes, PTO shafts are essentially generic. Odd that the 'hog didn't come with one. In any event, as long as the yokes have the correct spline count and it's long enough (or better yet, a bit too long so you can trim to length) you're good to go. PTOs come in two basic speeds - 540 rpm and 1000 rpm. Rotary mowers in the size range you're talking about will be 540 RPM, as is the PTO on the tractor. It's identified by the "coarse" splines on the shaft, (6 or 8 splines, I'd have to go look to be sure). 1000 rpm PTO is more often found on larger tractors, 50HP and bigger at a guess, and is identified by a 21 spline shaft.

The only other consideration is the presence of a slip clutch. There should be one at the gearbox on the 'hog. If not, you need to add one in the driveline so if the 'hog hits a stump or something the shock isn't transmitted to the tractor. That'll break things. Expensive things.


Edit to add: Re PTO Shaft Length You want it as long as possible so it doesn't separate at full drop, but just short enough that it doesn't bind at full lift. I usually take mine to full lift, measure and cut it to leave a couple of inches of slack.

I can provide some pictures if needed.

Good info! I will start looking at the 540rpm shafts. I'll also check into the hog gearbox specs for the clutch.

Why can't they put this in the manual? They show me how to dig a damn hole, but nothing like this.

Edit to add: I just found out the bush hog comes with a PTO with shear protection. Nice surprise.

I don't have a lot of tractor experience, but here is my take on a slip clutch vs a shear bolt for driveline impact protection using tractor PTO shaft powered attachments/implements.

This is especially important for hobbyist purposes where attachments/implements may sit outside unused for months or longer.

With a farmer/contractor/professional using a slip clutch PTO shaft on a daily basis, it's quite a bit different.

With a shear bolt, it's either intact or it's sheared and needs a new bolt.

Buy a handful of extra shear bolts and nuts along with some wrenches and put them in your tractor toolbox.

A slip clutch needs to be adjusted and "burnished" after initial purchase.

If allowed to sit outside in the weather, the clutch plates can and do rust. This locks them all together and then will not provide any impact protection. (all rusted together, won't slip when it should)

Slip clutches as they "burnish" during initial setup and break-in usage, transmit less effective torque before slipping and ultimately overheating.

Doing so they self destruct. (constant tinkering, slips when it shouldn't)

This can ruin/destroy both tractor and implement components, or self destroy a slip clutch style PTO shaft. (tractor transaxle and tractor PTO output systems, and attachment gearboxes)

I'm good with slip clutch style PTO shafts, but the potential for damage is always there. (either the tractor and/or attachment if rusted together or PTO shaft if allowed to slip excessively)

Slip clutches require the user to be constantly vigilant, while the average user will hook up the attachment/implement and get the job done and ignore checking the slip clutch for proper adjustment.

With a shear bolt, it's either sheared or it isn't. WAY less "fiddle factor" and potential for self destruction of the PTO shaft or tractor and/or attachment.

Mine has a shear bolt...

^^ Nice. I'm learning all kinds of useful things in this thread. A shear bolt sounds much more practical for my purposes.

 
My woodchipper came with a PTO shaft, but after I added a Quick Hitch on the 3 point, I needed a different length. Picked it up at TSC and it works fine.
 
BTW, a Quick Hitch is a wonderful addition to the 3 point, if you have more than one implement. Hooking up and unhooking in a couple of minutes, or less.

quote:

Originally posted by henryaz:

 
....BTW, a Quick Hitch is a wonderful addition to the 3 point, if you have more than one implement. Hooking up and unhooking in a couple of minutes, or less.

I'll second this.

quote:

Originally posted by henryaz:
 
My woodchipper came with a PTO shaft, but after I added a Quick Hitch on the 3 point, I needed a different length. Picked it up at TSC and it works fine.
 
BTW, a Quick Hitch is a wonderful addition to the 3 point, if you have more than one implement. Hooking up and unhooking in a couple of minutes, or less.

I thought about that. I'd have 3 implements for the rear (at least at first): backhoe, box blade, bush hog.

The 3-point hitch must be removed completely to use the backhoe, so a quick hitch would only be useful to switch between the box blade and the bush hog. Not sure if that would be worth it. If the quick hitch didn't have to come off for the backhoe, it would be a no-brainer.

Thoughts?

quote:

Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:

I thought about that. I'd have 3 implements for the rear (at least at first): backhoe, box blade, bush hog.

The 3-point hitch must be removed completely to use the backhoe, so a quick hitch would only be useful to switch between the box blade and the bush hog. Not sure if that would be worth it. If the quick hitch didn't have to come off for the backhoe, it would be a no-brainer.

Thoughts?

I have six different implements that go on my 3PH. As long as I park them so they're level and block them so they don't shift, I have no trouble hooking them up.

IMHO, quick hitches have two drawbacks:

1. They move the implement further back from the tractor. As already mentioned, that can lead to issues with the PTO, it moves the weight further back creating more load on the hitch and the tires (admittedly, not always a bad thing) and makes the whole rig longer which can be an issue in close quarters.

2. Every implement has to be set up to the dimensions of the quick hitch. Sometimes this is a simple matter, other times it can be a major pain in the ass.

As long as I can hook up my toys, I see no point in spending the money. I suppose if I were in a business situation and changing implements multiple times a day I might reconsider.

I'm a known curmudgeon, so JMHO, YMMV

The B2650 I had came with extendable end links and pin adjustable sway bars which made connecting rear implements less of a chore than my previous tractor without these two features.
When I ordered my L2501 there was a $300 rebate on any second implement, I applied that to a LP Quick Hitch so it cost almost nothing. It is a piece of cake now I just lower the 3 point, back up to the implement, raise the 3 point and I'm off and running.
It only moves the implement back around 5" which actually gives my ballast box a bit more leverage removing weight from the front axle when using the bucket which is good. I don't notice it on the flail, rear blade, or landscape rake. Maybe on a long rotary cutter already hanging way off the back I would but I haven't used my RC since I got the flail. The PTO shaft that came with my flail fit perfectly, without the quick hitch I'd likely had to cut it down.
In virus's case since one of his three is the hoe a QH may not be such an advantage. Extendable ends and pin type adjusters probably would though.

quote:

Originally posted by ridewv:
The B2650 I had came with extendable end links and pin adjustable sway bars which made connecting rear implements less of a chore than my previous tractor without these two features.

Very true. Much less hassle than my old JD with sway chains and no extendable links.

I think the quick hitch issue is mostly the number of attachments. I would never consider it if I maybe had two. But more than that its gold and worth every dollar. Cuts the time to switch by 2/3. I didn't have any issues with the length of any of the PTO shafts I have.

When I think about all the modifications/additions I've done on my BX 25,
the four LED light bars mounted on the ROPS is likely the most beneficial.

Recently my Father-in-law asked if he could borrow the machine.
Since he was the previous owner, he's a qualified operator.

I hauled the BX 25 up to his job site.
He was doing an emergency septic tank job for a relative.

As we all know, that kind of job can turn into a nightmare.
This one did. They were outside working well past midnight.

Father-in-law had been quite negative about most of the items I had upgraded.
However, after spending more than 8 hours using the backhoe & loader in the dark and being able to safely dig up a septic tank and leach field system, he finally said those LED light bars made that BX 25 a 25 hours a day machine.

I sure like them for snow removal!

Did you use some kind of kit or guide to wire up your ROPS lights? I may have missed that in your thread. I've seen a variety of ways to do it on YouTube and some tractor forums. I'm thinking they should be inside the ROPS to keep snagging down. I can also route wiring inside the ROPS tube. All of it would integrate into a switch somewhere near the dash.

https://diymyway.net/2019/08/1...mod-rops-led-lights/

This is pretty good, but I think I could do it cleaner. Not a fan of all of the external mounting and zip ties. I would need to make sure there is no interference if I have to fold down the ROPS.

I've read on one of the tractor forums that you shouldn't drill any holes in the ROPS. (comprising the strength of the ROPS in the event of a roll-over)
The claim is, when you go and trade your machine in at a Dealer, they will ding you for a replacement ROPS. Due to their perceived liability concerns when they resell your machine to a new owner.

There are several makers of no drill or tap brackets for mounting accessories onto the ROPS.
That being said, I drilled and tapped the mounting holes directly into the ROPS. (eight 1/4"- 20 drilled and tapped holes, two for each LED light bar)
I'm not concerned with eight small drilled and tapped holes compromising the overall strength of the ROPS.
I did discuss the install with my brother & girlfriend, both of them are Engineers.
Neither of them were concerned with the perceived loss of strength on the steel ROPS bar from the eight drilled and tapped small diameter holes.

Larger holes for stringing wire inside the ROPS would be a no-go for me personally.

I bought four 22 inch long LED light bars from Amazon. (each LED light bar has a double row of LED chips)

I wired it myself, using wire, a switch, and black corrugated plastic loom and many zip ties. (all sourced locally) All the wiring is external on the ROPS, which can still be folded down.
The rear of your machine should have a wire taped back into the factory rear harness. Used by the Factory for a rear work light. It's fused, switched by the ignition switch.
I measured the current draw for one LED light bar with a Fluke digital multi-meter. Multiplied that number by four. If I remember correctly, 18 Amps in total.
Which is less than the factory fuse for that circuit.
The fuse hasn't "popped" and the lights always work.
I installed the switch near the hinge point for the ROPS, using a factory bolt as a means to mount the switch.
Since the power source for the lighting system is from the rear of the tractor, wiring length is minimal.
I used the chassis for a ground.
Look for that wire being taped back inside the factory wiring harness near the left side 3 point lift arm mounting location. (viewed from the rear of the machine)

As I mentioned before, less than $100 for the entire system. Being able to use your tractor at any time of the day or night is easily worth $100.

I used four of these: Units for front/rear are at the top of the ROPS, and one on each side.

I also changed out the factory incandescent/halogen headlight bulbs using LED replacement bulbs sourced from Amazon. Your new machine may already have LED headlights.

IMG_20191021_192837230 by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20191023_190846664 by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20191023_190914931 by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20191023_190957480 by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

These are the Edge Tamers that essentially eliminate turf/blacktop damage when doing snow removal. The "skis" lift the front bucket cutting edge just high enough so you don't scalp stuff.
They also are great when filling in a trench you have excavated, you don't ruin your lawn.

IMG_20191022_120820902 by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20190619_131228444 by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

Thanks!