I had used Lawn Doctor for a few years, but ended up quitting due to the cost and the constant upselling.

My backyard is doing fine, it’s thick and green and looks healthy but my front is struggling this year, looks very light green and just a little sickly and not growing like the back is.

I’m a bit gun shy when it comes to doing lawn fertilization as a few years ago I ended up applying way too much to the front and totally burned and killed it and had to replant.

I want to use the liquid type on the front to help it a bit and I got a lawn soil test kit from Lowe’s and it looks like this is the results of the four tests:

PH: OK
Phosphorus: OK
Potash/Potassium: Low
Nitrogen: VERY Low, like none there

Doing my research it appears that what I want to use is 15–0–15 type fertilizer right now?

Does that sound right?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I plan to use the type that screws onto your hose and you just spray it on, I am really nervous about burning and killing my lawn with one of those spreaders and the powdered type stuff.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: PASig,

Proper lawn care is geographic, what works in PA won't work here in CFL so it's hard to say from that perspective

This is a good source for everything lawn related.

Hopefully some PA area folks can help with proper suggestions.

https://sodsolutions.com/sod-university/

If you have access to a university extension service they can analyze your soil and recommend the appropriate treatment.

quote:

Originally posted by smlsig:


analyze your soil

I already did that, it's in my OP

Nitrogen is very low
Potash is low

Down down to your local lawn and garden where you going to buy the fertilizer. I’m sure they have advice for your conditions.

How’s the aeration? Is the soil compacted?

I have used a surfactant as an aeration method with really good success.

Have you ever heard of up-down-all around? Based on your test and proposed numbers, it seems right.

I just question the root growth that would keep it healthy.

Maybe try to get a core sample? Use a bulb planter or piece of pipe. Take a look at the roots.

Father-in-law bought 4 bags of Amonium Nitrate -- spread all 4 bags of 36-0-0 on the lawn and by golly you could sit on the porch and HEAR it grow.

Had to mow every other day all summer long but it WAS green.

quote:

Originally posted by Patriot:

How’s the aeration? Is the soil compacted?

Soil is not compacted. I actually bought a SunJoe electric dethatcher/scarifier last fall and really gave it a good going over then did some topdressing and filling in with topsoil and some overseeding. It really came back well but has since sort of petered out.

What I think is one of my problems is my soil is VERY ROCKY. I can stick a screwdriver in and before I get 4-5 inches in I feel like I'm hitting lots of gravel or rocks. I'm wondering if this lawn was gravel/rocks underneath with a layer of topsoil?

How’s the ph?

Try some lime if low…

Acidic lawns can contribute to sick lawns.

Everything looks ok other than nitrogen and that's what will make it green up and grow. Short term I'd get a fertilizer high in slow release nitrogen.
Long term get clover started, which adds nitrogen to soil.

quote:

Originally posted by Patriot:
How’s the ph?

Try some lime if low…

Please read my OP...

I haven’t seen a 15-0-15, but doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist. One thing you could do is put down a 15-0-10 fertilizer (eg Lesco at Home Depot) AND Microlife Humates since it’s a 0-0-4. That’d be a 15-0-14. EDIT: Turns out 15-0-15 is a fairly common fertilizer for centipede grass and Fertilome's has 3% iron which typically helps green things up .

In my part of Texas, our normal fertilizer is a 15-5-10, 15-0-10, 20-5-10, or 20-0-10. I’ve foil tested the last 2 years and it’s been close enough to those.

On YouTube, The Lawn Care Nut channel just did a video or two on matching fertilizer to soil tests. https://youtu.be/MecPEjYGqpM

This message has been edited. Last edited by: tatortodd,

In North Texas, the recommendations is nitrogen only, like 23-0-0 at very specific times. Like none after mid June to early Sept. Of course your grasses and climate are no doubt different the my area. The one thing I've learned over the years is avoid weed & feed, in lieu of a good fertilizer at the time it's needed and a stand along weed treatment based on what is going on in your lawn.

quote:

Father-in-law bought 4 bags of Amonium Nitrate -- spread all 4 bags of 36-0-0 on the lawn and by golly you could sit on the porch and HEAR it grow

^^^^^^^^^^
Gotta watch those purchases. I wonder at what level ATF gets informed. I used it once and had to cut the lawn twice per week. Grass grows but does not develop good root structure.

Start with a 150# of 40-0-0 per acre to get the nitrogen up, then fill out your needs with 16-16-16. extra P and K will just be there for the grass in the future.

What was the PH? If it was below 6.0 you need calcium. If its below 5.0 I don't care how much N you put on the yard the grass will not be able to take it up. I farm for a living so I know a little about fertilizer.

I'd start with aerating the front. This will help separate the roots and loosens the soil. I would then overseed the area again. After that, apply the Scott's starter lawn fertilizer when you see new shoots. Cut a little bit shorter than normal for the first few cuts with sharp blades. Make sure to water thoroughly. You should see results in about three weeks.

quote:

Originally posted by JD DRIVER:
What was the PH? If it was below 6.0 you need calcium. If its below 5.0 I don't care how much N you put on the yard the grass will not be able to take it up. I farm for a living so I know a little about fertilizer.

According to the test it was right around 7.0

quote:

Originally posted by Stlhead:
Start with a 150# of 40-0-0 per acre to get the nitrogen up, then fill out your needs with 16-16-16. extra P and K will just be there for the grass in the future.

I agree, but in the first year I would also put 100# of Potassium Sulfate (0-0-51) per acre to get the K up, and add the much needed sulphur.

Grass needs sulphur. In the days before coal scrubbers, the power plants in Ohio put enough sulphur into the atmosphere to grow grass. Now that the air is clean, we need to add sulphur.

Since it is late, only apply 1/2 or 1/3 now, the rest in September.

The best ratio for our cool-season lawns is 4:1:2. Cutting out the phosphorus would leave you with a better formula of 20-0-10, you’ll probably only find 20-10-10 though. I’d do about 4 lbs per 1000 square feet.

I’m running 18-0-6 and 24-0-5 right now for lawns that don’t require phosphorus. Both formulas have Dimension .15% for crabgrass and summer annual control. Both also have slow-release nitrogen which I highly recommend unless you like mowing every other day.