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Re: Saw Stop If the moisture content in the wood is high enough it will trigger the brake. It’ll also trigger if you hit a piece of metal. I think brakes are in the $75-125 range but don’t quote me on that. I con it on the particle board. I don’t have pics but after I got the top of my bench done I glued a piece of masonite panel to the top. When it gets destroyed it only costs about $15 to replace. | |||
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I had the vise already so I built to that. You could certainly build up an edge later for some later obtained vise.
2.5” was the most meat while keeping square stock, with the quality of lumber on hand. It is salvaged construction 2x4 that I got when taking down a basement wall. And I wanted square legs… well, just because, really. -- I always prefer reality when I can figure out what it is. JALLEN 10/18/18 https://sigforum.com/eve/forum...610094844#7610094844 | |||
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thin skin can't win |
A piece of kitchen countertop from discount section in big box store has been my go-to three times now. Durable, can be cleaned, no splinters and the back edge avoids stuff ending in a crack. You only have integrity once. - imprezaguy02 | |||
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Saw-stop sacrifices the blade as well as the brake mechanism. Can they “activate” unintentionally - yes, it is what they do. Sometimes it saves fingers. Sometimes it “fires” because of wet wood or moist, pressure treated wood. Sometimes it “fires” without apparent reason. That is an assumed cost to owning the machine. It is likely that if it saves fingers it has just paid for itself - in the money NOT spent on a trip to the emergency room. Current cartridge prices from a quick web search $100 - $125. Add to that the price of a new blade. Saws online start at $900 for a table model, $1600 for a portable floor model. They go up from there. Now for the bigger question - For the OP - What kind of craftsman are you? Careful, meticulous, obsessive about details? How about a wood butcher? Better with an axe than a coping saw? Easily distracted? Reason for this path - there are easily tens of thousands of tablesaws out there. Some really good equipment that is going cheap. I have one such saw in my basement and it is not a saw stop model. It has been there 30+ years. Gets used regularly. It has never drawn blood under power. I respect it and am careful. I would suspect that this population on SF is a pretty careful group, knowing our common interest. In a nutshell - IF you can handle firearms safely you can probably use a standard tablesaw safely too. Why do I make this suggestion? Economy and independence. An exceptional used 10” tablesaw can be had for a few hundred bucks. Maybe less if you are lucky. Independence? Lawyers and the media are telling everybody how dangerous it is out there. IE - kids, wear your helmets! Don’t drink from the hose! Text Mom so she always knows where you are! Etc. Etc. We can work power tools safely without big brother nurturing your fears. We need to be careful and we need to PRACTICE being careful. Pick hobbies that don’t involve lawyers. | |||
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What Chris said. If you want REALLY low cost while being serviceable then the Kobalt from Lowe’s has served me well. If you want higher quality with the attendant price, the Dewalt and others with rack and pinion fences are nice. Once you get beyond job site saws you’re talking thousand bucks and up model full size units like Grizzly and Saw Stop. | |||
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If you are running wet wood or think you might hit metal in what you are cutting Sawstop allows you to disable the stop feature so it takes the cartridge out of the loop. I triggered mine once when I got the metal fence on my miter sled too close to the blade. The blade and the cartridge must be replaced when that happens. CMSGT USAF (Retired) Chief of Police (Retired) | |||
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I built my woodworking bench top out of a solid core door from the "Restore" store. About 1.75" thick, 36" x 80" - flat and very heavy and solid. About $50 I think. Usually maple or similar veneer. I put a piece of 1/4" melamine on top. Nothing sticks to it and just replace when it gets too bad. I trimmed the edges with solid wood which keeps the melamine in place with no screws or glue. If all you can find is a door already drilled for hinges and lockset, no problem, the melamine will cover it. I actually used a couple of them to build my office desk. Still flat after 15 years! | |||
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| drop and give me 20 pushups |
Retired custom cabinet maker that still have all 10 fingers intact. Did tangle with a table saw that cut three fingers to the bone but my fault.... Personally do not like the "saw stop" feature as it will cause people to disreguard proper safety rules and possible...................And a hint on the saw table tops as well as the end catch and side side tables (no matter what surface is made of) is to keep a good buffed coating of Johnsons Paste wax or something simular.. If properly done a fly trying to land on it will bust their butt trying to land before they can get their wings going again to get airborne.... and your cut material will slide without dragging.......................... drill sgt. | |||
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| Staring back from the abyss  |
Little late to the party, but I built this one a few years back. Might give you some ideas.  ________________________________________________________ "Great danger lies in the notion that we can reason with evil." Doug Patton. | |||
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Witticism pending... |
Hey all, sorry for the delay in responding; tonight is the earliest night I've had in a week. Yesterday was over 15 hours. ugh. I've spent a lot of time on instructables and watched more youtube videos than I can count getting ideas and picking up info about what I like and don't. Thanks to all that provided info about sawstop. The least expensive unit is over $1K by the time I get it home so I'm going to pass. I'm also passing on the torsion box. Looks very cool but I don't have room for one and stands for all the tools, car, motorcycle etc.
Somewhere in the 36 to 39" range.
I do not. Framing nailer from years back but I haven't decided whether to get a finish or brad nailer first.
I completely understand that. 
Craftsman? No. Woodshop in high school. A few years framing. Can I make something small and presentable with basic joinery? Yes. Hand-cut dovetails? No. I wouldn't even try without a jig. Meticulous? Yes, but lacking in experience, practice, and training. Careful and safe, yes. A backup camera is a handy thing to have but I despise the reverse automatic braking systems so prevalent now. Ditto adaptive cruise control. I don't need a system that slows my car but rather displays the speed of the vehicle I'm approaching so I can make decisions based on my speed and those of the vehicles around me.
Have spent a lot of time looking at saws on websites. It's a bitch wading through all the package deals to find out the actual saw specs and where the money is going. It will be a few hundred dollars on a job site model. If it were my only hobby and I made furniture then a Jet is justifiable. Not in my case. Dan I'm not as illiterate as my typos would suggest.☮ | |||
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IMO, it is better to learn to use a table saw safely. I used a Unisaw for 25 years, 40 hours/week, without even the thing that comes up and covers the blade (not sure what its function is). It is not hard to learn the safety basics, and I still have all ten digits. Respect the blade. Make a good cut off box that slides in the top's grooves. When in doubt, mumble | |||
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| Witticism pending... |
Gustofer, You are not at all late and thank you for posting that photograph. That is what I am looking to build, but with the addition of a recessed area for a tablesaw on the short side. Dan I'm not as illiterate as my typos would suggest.☮ | |||
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| Witticism pending... |
My original thought of using some scrap 4x6 and 4x4 for the frame (and some unused casters on hand) would put the bottom shelf about 12" off the floor wasting a lot of space underneath. Now I'm considering doubled up, face-glued 2x4 and low profile or side-mounted casters. I plan on planing "the doubles" down just enough to remove the rounded edges so I should end up with approximately 3x3&1/4 stock. 1) Should the faces of the 2x4 be lightly sanded before gluing and clamping? 2) Will that stock span 7' as stretchers or should I plan on buying a 3rd set of casters to place midpoint? 3) The end sections of the frame will be about 36" wide x 33" tall with the top and casters getting the height to about 39". Run the bottom horizontal piece long and mortise the legs from the top? Or run the uprights long? 4) After gluing the joint, is a single dowel pin enough to hold the joint together or use 2? I could use screws but I want to try pinning... just because. 5) Picture the stock on edge. From what I read the width of the tenon is 1/3 of the stock so 1". The depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the receiving piece so approx 1 & 3/4". I can't find any info about the height so how tall of the 3 & 1/4" is the tenon supposed to be? Is there a rule of thumb? 6) The stretchers will be recessed slightly so I'm not stubbing my toes or banging my shins on the bottom shelf. Not sure if it's still called a half-lap joint but I'm going to notch the bottom of the stretchers and top of the horizontal end-frame piece. Should the notches be half of each piece (1&1/2 x 1&5/8)? Or is it like the tenon with 1/2 being the minimum up to 2/3? As always, thanks for the help. Dan I'm not as illiterate as my typos would suggest.☮ | |||
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I didn't. Titebond did just fine with it.
Any chance that some load will be there, like a cabinet? I think with 3x3.25 stock, I'd lean to the extra casters, but I also tend to use those open spaces for storage.
Mortise from top and let your horizontal piece support the top.
A well fitting mortise/tenon doesn't need a pin at all. Modern wood glues are pretty strong. That said... sure, pin that bad boy just for giggles. In fact...dye/stain the pin for contrast. Even if it's just a workbench, no reason one can't practice skills, right?
For me, the more tenon cheek there is, the more glue area, and the stronger the joint. So I tend not to take too much off the ends, you might say. I think I'd shoot for around 1/4", take a look at it and see what I thought about it. I tend to zen my way around those things.
Not tenon them in? -- I always prefer reality when I can figure out what it is. JALLEN 10/18/18 https://sigforum.com/eve/forum...610094844#7610094844 | |||
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| Witticism pending... |
I'm not as illiterate as my typos would suggest.☮ | |||
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| Witticism pending... |
The more I plan this the more I realize just how much I don't know. However, it is enjoyable. Search for an answer and find it but end up with another question in what I just read. lol At the rate I'm going it'll be done mid-January. A clamp here, router bit there, add a Kreg jig, Microjig dovetail setup, some other tools and I'm a couple hundred into it before buying any lumber. It's fun though. I'm not as illiterate as my typos would suggest.☮ | |||
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