So I’m in the process of staining some wood grip panels for a gun and was curious what is the preferred coding at the end in terms of poly? Is it pretty standard to just do 2 to 3 coats of any regular polyurethane, water versus oil base, lacquer versus shellac versus something thinner? I don’t want a super shine just something to protect the wood.
Use a very light coat of whatever you end up deciding on. Nothing looks worse than a sanded down set of wood grips globbed with a thick coat of varnish covering the checkering and medallions.
Posts: 27403 | Location: SW of Hovey, Texas | Registered: January 30, 2007
Think ahead to the possible effect of Hoppe's 9, CLP, and other cleaning chemicals. You may want to do some internet research on these interactions before choosing.
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Posts: 5426 | Location: Commonwealth of Virginia | Registered: January 15, 2007
I'm doing a set of Desert ironwood grips right now for a single action.
I originally used Minwax Fast Dry Polyurethane (oil base), and carefully brushed it on, 3 coats with 2 days dry time in between and gently sanded between coats. Well, I just didnt like the "texture" after I was done.
I called a buddy who is a cabinet maker and asked what i did wrong, and he said to get the spray version and it's foolproof.
So I resanded smooth, with most of that brushed on poly still present as a base, and just sprayed the second coat (12 hrs dry time between to make sure it's hardened), and it's a perfect smooth gloss finish I was looking for.
I used Varathane Ultimate Polyurethane oil based spray. At Home Depot, it has the gold & white label. Works really well.
I’ve used Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil with excellent results. You have the option of leaving the high gloss finish or after completely dry buffing with 0000 Steal Wool for a satin finish.
Posts: 254 | Location: GA. | Registered: October 13, 2007