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| Three Generations of Service  |
There is some evidence that the Corvette has been repainted - not especially well - at some point. Given the cost of a good paint job, I'm okay with the current paint, but it would definitely benefit from polishing. I'd have it detailed (and might yet) but the $250-ish bill is a tad off-putting. I cleaned a small area on the lid to the well that the top stores in and then sprayed on some Meguiar's detailer and buffed it with a soft cloth. The difference is great enough that I'd consider doing the whole car that way. The problem with that idea is that my hands/shoulders will NOT put up with that much repetitive motion. I'm thinking the solution might be a polisher, preferably cordless. I'm seeing prices between $100 and $200. The lower end of that would be acceptable if the machine is reliable. Input/Advice/Sources sought. Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent. | ||
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Member |
If you’re like me and invested in the Ryobi One+ system already, there’s this polisher for $160 or so. ETA: $143 at Home Depot. God bless America. | |||
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| No More Mr. Nice Guy |
I gave away my 30 yr old Sears orbital polisher a couple of years ago. It still worked perfectly. It was corded, of course, but it didn't get in the way. I draped the cord over my shoulder so it wouldn't touch the paint, though it probably wouldn't do damage unless mercilessly dragged across a gritty dirty surface. Have you looked at your local classifieds to see if there is something used for sale? | |||
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| Member |
Ryobi is good stuff. My drill and two batteries lasted about ten yrs or so; just tossed it out. | |||
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| As Extraordinary as Everyone Else  |
PH are you already invested in a particular cordless tool universe? Most brands have their version of this tool. ------------------ Eddie Our Founding Fathers were men who understood that the right thing is not necessarily the written thing. -kkina | |||
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thin skin can't win |
What you want is a random orbital polisher, not an orbital. The latter in the hands of an amateur like us greatly increases likelihood of damaging the paint. Can expand on that, but trust me and others on this. You also will need decent quality pads, and different ones for different cleaners/sealers/wax. Even with all that, you will still be wiping off the product at each step, so your arms will still get a workout. $250 may start looking better. However if that includes any interior work, as well as paint correction and sealing/waxing, it's too low and likely also a relative amateur. Oh - that detailer approach will be fine for a minute, but not durable at all. You only have integrity once. - imprezaguy02 | |||
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| Three Generations of Service |
All valid points, and I'm leaning strongly in that direction. Plus, I hate that sort of work. Dropping a hundo-plus on a polisher is half the price of a detail job, and given my well-worn bod and amateur status, it does indeed make that $250 price tag more attractive. Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent. | |||
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| Three Generations of Service |
I'm a Milwaukee fan boy, but their unit is stoopid expensive. Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent. | |||
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Member |
Spend the money on a professional detail job and make sure to include a ceramic coating. Buy once, cry once. Best automotive investment I've ever made. Have had both my 2013 427 Corvette Convertible and my 2015 Chevy SS done. Both are garage kept, but that was more than two years ago and they both look like new. The SS goes through the car wash regularly and the Corvette has only ever been spray detailed (Meguiar's Ceramic hybrid). The detail shop where I had it done also offers a booster package - less than a full detail - for upkeep, a refresher of sorts. I have not had to avail myself of that as yet. IIRC detailing was about the $250 you were quoted and for a $25 upcharge they included the ceramic. That was in NJ, so I can't imagine that it would be more in Maine - everything is more in NJ - should be the state motto. Adios, Pizza Bob NRA Benefactor Member | |||
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teacher of history |
Ask a local dealer who does their detailing and contact them. I get mine done for less than $150. | |||
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| Member |
I just talked to my local detail fella a week or so ago… a detail job on a “standard sized” sedan runs about $250-325. Getting the ceramic done is WAY more expensive than a “regular” detailing, but his particular package comes with a lifetime warranty and makes the vehicle ridiculously easy to wash. Be sure to use the right cleaning products, and skip the brush-type car washes. God bless America. | |||
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The Unmanned Writer |
Doood - I have and still use one of those! Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it. "If dogs don't go to Heaven, I want to go where they go" Will Rogers The definition of the words we used, carry a meaning of their own... | |||
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| Member |
I would get a corded Harbor Freight random orbital polisher and call it a day. A 8-10 inch should be adequate. Drape the cord over your shoulder to keep it off the car. If it fails, no big monetary loss and if it lasts you are good for future work. Also no extra batteries to purchase. At time of purchase get some extra polishing pads that fit the machine as I am sure you will have a couple of areas where a different product will be needed. Just don't be too aggressive until you get a feel for the amount of time needed for each product. Go light on the pressure and let the machine do the work. The “POLICE" Their job Is To Save Your Ass, Not Kiss It The muzzle end of a .45 pretty much says "go away" in any language - Clint Smith | |||
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| His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm.  |
If you haven't used a power polisher before, practice on a sample piece or an unobtrusive part of the car. | |||
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Ammoholic |
I took my Audi to a local shop that did paint correction, partial PPF and ceramic coating in 2018. Cost around $1750. Since then, its hand washes and a bit of ceramic spray detailer ever 2d or 3d wash. Water still beads well and after a wash it looks new. If I keep the car, I’ll do it again next year. Well worth the investment. Before that I went the home random orbital route with good pads and creams from Grioit. Worked great, but man was it a lot of work. I decided life was too short. Just another schmuck in traffic - Billy Joel | |||
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Drill Here, Drill Now |
Where I live, $250 gets you a detail and machine applied sealant from someone who speaks English. A few notes on terminology in the detailing world: I'm a DIY detailing enthusiast, and I can do everything from light polishing to compounding to wet sanding. However, I'm having trouble providing advice as I'm not clear on what specifically is the issue with your paint. I can give good recommendations and point out some risks (i.e. inadvertently causing damage that would definitely require being repainted) if I knew the answers to these questions: Ego is the anesthesia that deadens the pain of stupidity DISCLAIMER: These are the author's own personal views and do not represent the views of the author's employer. | |||
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| Drill Here, Drill Now |
Even better, do what I did and talk to the manager at a local body shop. I told him that I wanted to practice compounding and polishing paint, and asked if he had any panels they were throwing away that I could have. For free, I went home with a metal fender and a plastic bumper. I was able to practice on both before I ever used my random orbit machine on my truck's paint. Ego is the anesthesia that deadens the pain of stupidity DISCLAIMER: These are the author's own personal views and do not represent the views of the author's employer. | |||
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