Well it appears that someone hit my suburban yesterday in a parking lot. Not a lot of cosmetic damage, which is why I didn't notice at first. There is a scratch in the paint on the front fender to just under the mirror. This morning when I went to open the door, the door handle was broken but went back into place so no visual indication. The door will not open with outside handle and will not open with the inside handle either. The lock indicates unlocked with all the other doors. Short of destroying the door panel to get to the latch does anyone have any ideas?

Take it to a body shop, get an estimate, if it's over the deductible for comprehensive coverage, file a claim.

What HRK said. If you do get it open you may not be able to get it to stay latched once you open it.

Door handles on those year GM trucks are a pretty standard issue. Internals are pretty much made of plastic, so they break, often.

Went through 2 on my 08 GMC 2500, and just replaced one on my '13 GMC.

On my '13, the door was stuck closed too. It is kind of a pain, but you can get enough of the door panel off to pull the cable that opens the door.

Remove the few bolts holding the panel on, then start prying the panel off (it is held on with clips) so you can get some pliers on the cable, then pull the cable.

There are a few videos on Youtube as to how to do it, depending on what trim it is (LS, LT, LTZ.

If there is little obvious damage (scratches and stuff), might be worth a try, see if the internals to the door handle broke (again, made of plastic, break easy). If there is obvious damage, agree take it somewhere.

Did you try to manually lock and unlock the door? Try using the power door switch and key several times in case one of the levers that control the door lock were slightly jarred, hard to explain but if any of the levers on the door lock are tripped in the wrong position the door will not open by either the outside or inside handle.

If you have a cooperative salvage yard around, ask to see a wrecked one and look inside the door. wiht the panel already off you get the opportunity to see how it's arranged, push and pull the rods and controls, take pics, etc.

You then also know where parts might be available. A metal part that is damaged can be replaced with used, lock rods don't wear but the plastic connectors easily break which often cause all the problems. The lock unit itself doesn't wear much except at the latch post and hook engagement, usually because the hinges wear out and it leans on the connection. Electrically operated locks use solenoids which can either stop working - bad internal connection - or wiring getting cut or corroded at connections. Powering it with a hot lead from the battery can test it, look up the procedure and it's not too hard.

Working inside the door, wear a heavy canvas long sleeved garment as the punched openings can be razor sharp. I've done it on 1966 models up to '05's and it's yet to be a user friendly environment. Hauling five tree tops of limbs is less cutting, just saying. You may need a magnet to recover parts and fasteners that dribble down inside, happens every time. A door panel tool is nice to have, and there is always one hidden screw that seems to be unmentioned when looking them up online. Look up from underneath using a good bright flashlight.