I'm going to try my very best to be brief... I promise.

My wifies 2018 Pacifica with 73k miles dropped the check engine light a couple weeks back and my basic code reader gave me a P0305. It wasn't running rough, no flashing CEL. I removed the plug from cylinder 5 and placed it in cylinder 3 (and the plug from 3 into 5) and then I moved the coil from cylinder 5 to cylinder 1 (and the one from 1 to 5). After doing that and confirming it was running with no apparent issues, I reset the obd codes and told my wife to carefully watch for signs of overheating. I also ensured the coolant was at the max filled line.

She reported the check engine light returned about 10 days later. I pulled the code and was dismayed to find it was stil P0305. Coolant was a few ounces low... maybe 4?

At that point it seemed a compression test and leakdown test was likely the next step and that is outside my comfort zone so I set an appointment for the dealer and left the codes in-tact. About 5 days later I dropped it off at the local Mopar dealer, though the light had reset itself by this time.

I explained to the service advisor specifically what code was set, how I isolated and ruled out the plug and coil, how the same code came back and how it was losing a small amount of coolant. He read back the notes he entered, and I saw it on the form, so I know it was there. He explained that the normal $195 diagnostic fee likely wouldn't cover a leak down test, I said I understood, and it was no problem, I just wanted to know what was going on. He then specifically asked for permission to conduct a free 27 point inspection including ensuring all tires were at factory spec on the pressure. I consented.

2.5 days later my wife picked it u (paid the $195) and they'd done essentially nothing. They told her they couldn't find an issue because there were no related codes present. They found codes indicating the aux battery was end of life, but stated that wouldn't cause reported misfires in cylinder 5. They provided a printout showing no related misfire codes and showing the misfire count for all cylinders, showing 0.

I asked about the results of the compression test and leak down test and was told they didn't do one because the technician could not replicate the code. They did tell her to bring the car back if the CEL returned and that they would do what they could to not charge us again.

I feel pretty irritated as it appears they did nothing for over 2 days. I was ok paying extra for the leakdown test as I understand it takes time, and we talked about that at drop off. Further, the whole experience left a bad taste in my mouth as they didn't check the tires as they stated they would... yes, I know that is a small issue, and the tires aren't but a pound or two off, but they said they'd do something and clearly didn't follow through. That makes me question them even more.

Am I right to be irritated that they collected $200 for doing nothing other than running codes despite what I thought was an understanding for a more in-depth diagnostic? I would like to send an email to the service manager asking what exactly it was that we paid for, but I figured I'd get some other opinions first to ensure I am not off-base...

quote:

He read back the notes he entered, and I saw it on the form, so I know it was there. He explained that the normal $195 diagnostic fee likely wouldn't cover a leak down test, I said I understood, and it was no problem, I just wanted to know what was going on. He then specifically asked for permission to conduct a free 27 point inspection including ensuring all tires were at factory spec on the pressure. I consented.

I wouldn't have paid them anything. You brought it in for compression/leak down test, they did not do it. It's pretty straight forward.

As far as what to tell the manager, I would ask for a refund or to apply the $200 towards the requested services and tell them to perform them and that you will pay the remainder.

As with all dealerships communication is one of the issues. I prefer to speak with the mechanic if at all possible. It is often a different story.

They should have been able to see the codes, the dealers software goes deeper into the system than a simple scanner from an auto parts store.

If you left the codes in from the last time, they should have seen the P0305.

Since it has close to 80K on the clock I'd change the plugs out to new platinum plugs and see if that fixes the issue, even though if the plug was bad you'd think it would move with the swap you did.

Check the connector and make sure it's getting a good connection to the coil.

Yeah, think I'd call the SM and ask for your $195 back since they didn't find anything, said there were no codes but you saw the codes before bringing it in...

Then find a different dealer...

My best friend is the service manager at competitor brand in your town. Just texted him and he doesn’t have a contact for any mopar dealers although he’s previously worked for a few other makes, not CDJ. Sorry man.
Yes it would bug me.

Find a good independent mechanic that you can trust and avoid the dealership altogether.

Seems to me like they treated you pretty fair, didn't do any repairs that were not needed, lots of dealers would have either fired the parts cannon or sold you a bunch of services like injector clean or tranny flush.

quote:

Originally posted by Calif Phil:
Seems to me like they treated you pretty fair, didn't do any repairs that were not needed, lots of dealers would have either fired the parts cannon or sold you a bunch of services like injector clean or tranny flush.

That would be marvy IF they'd actually done what he asked them to do.

quote:

Originally posted by calugo:
Find a good independent mechanic that you can trust and avoid the dealership altogether.

This was my first time ever going to a dealership for service... I have used an independent guy exclusively for several years, and really liked him, until my last issue which ended poorly and is the reason I was seeking a new service center and gave the dealership a try. He misdiagnosed something, for reasons unknown (cutting corners or perhaps an incomplete understanding of the system) and it cost me signficant money... I learned this after educating myself on the specific system and figuring out the problem myself.

In any event, that is what lead me to the local dealership as the task of finding a reliable and honest independent shop seems daunting.

But it seems I won't be back to this dealership either. Ironically, if I called the old guy back and specifically asked him to do a compression test and a leak-down test I have no doubt he would do it and there is a decent change he wouldn't charge me as, at least historically, he knows I'll bring the car back to him for repair once I'm ready.

I think I'll be sending an email to the Service Manager and then finding another shop to do the diagnostics... My gut tells me I have a head gasket with a small leak. I want to stay in front of that.

quote:

Originally posted by Calif Phil:
Seems to me like they treated you pretty fair, didn't do any repairs that were not needed, lots of dealers would have either fired the parts cannon or sold you a bunch of services like injector clean or tranny flush.

Thank you for the input, I did post to see how others read the situation. I do want to be sure I'm not over-reacting.

They did suggest I replace the aux battery and provided a quote, and I don't think they're wrong, it is probably due. In fact their quote for the replacement was actually fairly reasonable, in my estimation, after pricing out the part myself.

However, as stoic-one pointed out, they didn't even do what I asked them to do. That is kinda the big issue I have.

quote:

Originally posted by HRK:
They should have been able to see the codes, the dealers software goes deeper into the system than a simple scanner from an auto parts store.

If you left the codes in from the last time, they should have seen the P0305.

Since it has close to 80K on the clock I'd change the plugs out to new platinum plugs and see if that fixes the issue, even though if the plug was bad you'd think it would move with the swap you did.

Check the connector and make sure it's getting a good connection to the coil.

Yeah, think I'd call the SM and ask for your $195 back since they didn't find anything, said there were no codes but you saw the codes before bringing it in...

Then find a different dealer...

Thank you... I am a bit bewildered as to the report that they don't see the code as I surely didn't clear it and, as I understand it, the code would remain as a historic code until cleared by someone. I could be wrong on that, though. I am not an expert at all.

I'm not opposed to changing the plugs and would have asked them to do so if the repair involved removing the intake plenum, which is required to get to the front bank of plugs. They aren't due to be changed until 100,000 miles, but at $6 each I don't see a lot of reason not to change them out and know it is done for the rest of time we have the vehicle.

Yes, it would bug me!

They obviously did not apply any brain cells to your situation. CEL light off, they are stumped. Larry, Darryl, and Darryl

I've had the Audi dealer do the same thing twice. I made an appointment via email on their website for two specific problems. Got to the dealership and they didn't have the part. So I made another appointment for a month later. Took the car in and they still didn't have a part because they'd never ordered it. That time they gave me a loaner car for the week while waiting for the part.

I do all my own maintenance to the greatest extent possible because almost every time I go to a dealer I am very disappointed.

Clearing codes with your scanner doesn't really clear them unless the root cause is addressed. I would think the dealer's software could see that, because DMV can when they do emissions inspections. You can't just run your scanner and clear codes on your way to emissions. You'd have to do the full reset procedure, which can be pretty difficult without factory software. I'd let the code reappear, not clear it and then take it back to the dealer.

I wouldn't go too against the dealer on this, I would like to think that they would want to fix it. As far as the leak down test, I doubt they even have the tester, not real common now a days. I would look at Freeze Frame when code set. If engine was cold or still warming up I would pull that spark plug, pressurize the cooling system and check inside the cylinder with a borescope after sitting overnight.

With the Federal 8/80 warranty that should be covered, setting the CEL and/or failing emissions test.

quote:

Originally posted by rizzle:
I wouldn't go too against the dealer on this, I would like to think that they would want to fix it. As far as the leak down test, I doubt they even have the tester, not real common now a days. I would look at Freeze Frame when code set. If engine was cold or still warming up I would pull that spark plug, pressurize the cooling system and check inside the cylinder with a borescope after sitting overnight.

With the Federal 8/80 warranty that should be covered, setting the CEL and/or failing emissions test.

So, once the code returned after I had moved the plug and coil I did contact a friend who has a more advanced diagnostic tool. He had some trouble with the Chrysler SGA thingy, but was able to look at the code and the freeze frame. It seemed the CEL was set early and potentially not at normal operating temperature, so you could be right.

I did just sent an email to the Service Manager asking for some clarity on the situation with no demands or harsh language... just a documentation of what transpired and a request for his insight on the situation with the lack of diagnostics performed over the course of more than 2 days.

I don't have a way to pressurize the system on hand, but I suspect that O'Reilly or Autozone probably has the tool in their loaners

If the miss was not present at the time the car was in the shop, I don't see much else that could have been done.

quote:

If engine was cold or still warming up I would pull that spark plug, pressurize the cooling system and check inside the cylinder with a borescope after sitting overnight.

Pentastar engine + mysterious coolant loss + sporadic miss = red flag for this problem. And the compression would still be normal.