quote:

Originally posted by Suppressed:

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:
To address item #4, get one of these and learn how to use it. Now my saw blades are always sharp. Just make sure to buy the right one for your blade pitch. https://www.stihlusa.com/produ...ling-tools/2in1file/

I have this from Pferd: https://www.treestuff.com/pfer...p-cs-x-filing-guide/

It is the same tool but less expensive.

It is the exact same price as the Stihl product at Northern Tool and my local Stihl dealer - $39.95.

quote:

Originally posted by 280nosler:
IF you are sharpening the teeth without touching the rake, you are wasting your time.

That's the beauty of the Stihl tool I linked to. If used correctly, it will sharpen the teeth 'and' adjust the rakers at the same time. To date, it's the best solution I've found to sharpening my chains quickly and effectively. There's really no excuse anymore not to stop, throw the bar in my bench vise, and touch up the teeth. Only takes a few minutes and the difference is readily apparent.

They also allow you to maintain the correct angle by keeping the handle edge parallel with the bar. I love them.

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:

quote:

Originally posted by 280nosler:
IF you are sharpening the teeth without touching the rake, you are wasting your time.

That's the beauty of the Stihl tool I linked to. If used correctly, it will sharpen the teeth 'and' adjust the rakers at the same time. To date, it's the best solution I've found to sharpening my chains quickly and effectively. There's really no excuse anymore not to stop, throw the bar in my bench vise, and touch up the teeth. Only takes a few minutes and the difference is readily apparent.

When I used to cut for a logging company back in college, another feller was complaining about his saw not cutting well. Turns out he was sharpening his teeth, but never touched his rakes. When I explained what they do, and showed him the shiny wear on them, it finally sunk in.

Man I miss that 24" John Deere 60v.

quote:

Originally posted by sigcrazy7:
They also allow you to maintain the correct angle by keeping the handle edge parallel with the bar. I love them.

Not all chains use the same cutter angle of chisel.

Oregon's RipCut and Power Cut have a different angle than the Advance Cut and Versa Cut blades. The angle of the chisel it typically tied to the intended use, powerhead size, and controllability. The narrower chisel (like the Stihl is set up for) is set for reduced kickback and a sub 50 cc powerhead.

Don't get me wrong - I use that same setup on both my saws (3/8 and .325), but I also don't do chainsaw milling either.

I know it’s been said, but I just want to add my endorsement for proper no alky fuel, good oils and just generally take good care of your saws.
My dad taught me to sharpen and other stuff, and the mac 10-10 In the pic was the saw he gave me way back, my first saw. It still runs and cuts great, but feels underpowered compared to the stihl.
All our heat comes from a lopi woodstove, the furnace hasn’t been used in 25 years. These saws have cut a lot of wood.

New Husky 555 came in the other day. Originally it had an 18" bar but I asked the seller to put a 20" bar on it so it took them a couple days to get it in. I put everything together and fired it up. Cleaned up the Rancher 450 and listed it on Craigslist. It was a good little saw.