Page 1 2
Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
| Member |
My 2019 Ram calls for synthetic 75w90 gear oil and an additional Mopar limited slip modifier. All of the synthetic oils I see have a limited slip modifier already added. However none of them seem to be listed for the MS 10111 Mopar requirement. Mopar factory gear oil is the only one I can find which does not have the modifier. I am finding mixed results online about using the premixed oils. I guess it’s only an extra $60 for the factory fluids. Probably not worth the risk or am I overthinking it. | ||
|
| Technically Adaptive |
The additive allow slipping, without, it's a locked clutch pack, Use whatever is approved. The material of the clutch pack is the reason, some universal additives may allow overheating do to excessive slip or may damage the friction material. It doesn't get changed very often, I would go with the factory oil and additive. | |||
|
Member |
OEM manus want you to buy their fluids, filters, etc. The problem with that is someone makes it for them so it’s a marketing thing and it’s not as good as stuff from AMSOIL, Redline, etc. I use this in my diffs. https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoi...hetic-gear-lube-svg/ I use this in my rear diff and transfer case on my performance car. I also use it in my AWD system for the transfer case. It has the friction modifiers added. Mopar is trying to scare you and they are just trying to get your $ via their products vs. a competitor. Having used AMSOIL for 25 years in everything, even the mower, I trust them vs. anyone else. I replace all fluids in every vehicle with AMSOIL synthetic. Engine oil, gear lube for transfer case, or diffs, MTF, ATF, every fluid. I’ve been using their 75w90 gear lube for diffs and transfer cases for 16 years now. Their products handle heat better and last longer than anything else on the market IMO. If the 75w90 contains friction modifiers for LSD’s, you’re good to go IMO. What am I doing? I'm talking to an empty telephone | |||
|
| Member |
I don't happen to agree with the above. If a 3rd party oil specifically calls out that it meets the specification required I am happy to use it. And that's normally pretty common. If a 3rd party oil doesn't meet the specification I would generally use one that does. If the factory option is too expensive/unobtainable/whatever I would probably run a non friction modified product meeting the base specification (I see a bunch of those) and use the factory friction additive. But that's just me. “So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.” | |||
|
Alea iacta est |
I second what Prefontaine said. Amsoil is impossible to beat. Best oil made in my opinion. I used it in my diffs in my Jeep when I changed out the diff covers and fluid. The “lol” thread | |||
|
| His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm.  |
Can you cite specific language that says 75W90 already has LSD friction modifier additive already in it? I'm skeptical. The manufacturer doesn't know if the oil will be going in a conventional (open), LSD or locker. As for the friction modifier, if Mopar brand is too expensive, difficult to obtain (dealer miles out of your way) or whatever is making you balk, I see no reason why anybody's wouldn't work. | |||
|
| My other Sig is a Steyr.  |
You should be fine. My '05 Ram requires 90w with the limited slip modifier as well. Problem is, Mopar, Lucas, Amsoil, etc... does not sell 90w. I have to have it special ordered. | |||
|
| Technically Adaptive |
I checked the Amsoil site, their synthetic has modifier in it, but certain applications may require additional additive. This particular diff. does, so, I would call them before ordering. | |||
|
| Member |
All the 75w90 say with additive right on the front of the bottle | |||
|
| Member |
I’d bet money it surpasses and then some whatever bs they are trying to call for. A diff is a diff. I mean some people make this out to be way more complicated than it really is. The manu is always going to try and drive money into their products and their service departments. It’s funny, too, when they call for some snake oil they are trying to peddle. Then someone does the labs on whatever it is and discovers it’s the same old shit. Manus will never stop, and always try and play these games. If you are sweating it, warranty this and that, then just buy OEM so you don’t sweat it. Your alternative is learn about oil, lubricants, etc, and spend the time on it. You’ll learn it’s an industry that is massively full of shit. Everyone with their hand out trying to force you to buy their shit. Magnuson-Moss is still in effect. What am I doing? I'm talking to an empty telephone | |||
|
| Technically Adaptive |
Amsoil is selling their own snake oil for this application. As mentioned above don't waste money on it. (quote)AMSOIL SEVERE GEAR is compatible with most limited-slip differentials. For applications that require additional limited-slip friction modifier, add AMSOIL Slip Lock.® (end quote) Don't listen to me, let the pros on here handle it. | |||
|
| Member |
Huh? I use Mobil Delvac regularly and in volume and I see nothing anywhere on a bottle, 5 gal pail, or the mfg. spec sheet to suggest it has an antifriction additive. I use it in the same way that I suggested for you except in ford axles. Base product no additive plus required mfg. additive package. The only completely reliable solution in this situation is getting an oil that meets the mfg. spec and add the mfg. spec. additive. But its not much risk to get a product that meets the underlying lubrication spec. and add the specified friction modifier. “So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.” | |||
|
| Member |
Ages ago I changed the posi trac diff oil in a car and did not add the special modifier. It became very apparent the modifier is necessary. Popping and jerking from the rear axle during turns. I just added whatever the auto parts store offered up and the issue was solved. I think the bigger nonsense here is being stuck on using synthetic. Gears are still gears and dino oil worked fine for decades. East Coast Gear Supply and many gear and differential makers recommend against using synthetic hypoid gear lube. But if nothing else makes you comfortable just buy the OEM be confident of your choice. “That’s what.” - She | |||
|
| Raised Hands Surround Us Three Nails To Protect Us  |
Amsoil is quite good but I have jumped ship to LiquiMoly both the Suburban and Tundra run noticeably more quite and smooth since switching. I always add the specific modifier called for even in instances where the synthetic states it’s not needed. ———————————————— The world's not perfect, but it's not that bad. If we got each other, and that's all we have. I will be your brother, and I'll hold your hand. You should know I'll be there for you! | |||
|
| If you see me running try to keep up  |
I trusted Amsoil in my old F350 Sterling rear end. Personally I would do my best to follow factory recommendations but it not I would go to Amsoil. They have proven themselves over the year. | |||
|
Member |
I formulated limited slip axle lubricants for years. An OEM supplier. For peace of mind choose OEM lubricants. However reputable lubricant blenders do make excellent products and have low risk. The lubricants sold in the aftermarket can have a limited slip package or component within. In a conventional open axle the LS chemistry does no harm. The LS additive sold in Mopar brand is most likely the same amine chemistry as they have used for decades. Do not overtreat the axle with more LS additive, thinking more is better. More amine can harm the elastomer seals. Leaks may occur. Most aftermarket blenders rely on known LS additive chemistry. This chemistry irreversibly reacts over time, in use, and loses its functionality. Replacing it may be required, depending on the strength of the product. The previously mentioned “severe gear” product is one that meets or exceeds requirements set by that blender. It is extensively tested, but not by the OEMs. With regard to the comments about snake oil and fecal matter, please walk a mile in the shoes of the formulators across the industry who meet or exceed the OEM and industry durability requirements. It is often years of testing, especially if the lubricant passes SAE J2360. Formulators often chooses the same chemistry for the same needs, year after year. Creating chemistry is costly and challenging due to environmental regulations. Millions of dollars of testing is performed. Think of the 1911. The M4A1. Chemistry that works is sensible to use, time and time again, just as these firearms are used for decades. Keep in mind that antiwear components can provide friction modification also, so seeing a label for a synthetic 75w90 that is suitable for limited slip applications but does not say “contains a limited slip additive” is possible. A comment was made that Mopar is trying to scare you into buying an inferior product. This is not so. Mopar GM and Ford all spend years proving the lubricants work. As an example there are tests in the desert southwest where thousands of miles of max load towing stress the lubricants. The tests take many months. Only the lubricants proven in bench and rig and dyno and vehicle trials make it to the desert. There the pinion torque applied to the ring gear exceeds what the consumer will ever do, time and time again. The OEMs do not offer testing like this to oil blenders. The OEMs have no reason to evaluate other lubricants, and are very dedicated to delighting the truck owner with a durable product. Yes, I have been to the desert on a horse with no name. The reason Mopar requires a lubricant and a separate LS additive is economic. Some axles have LS. Many do not. They cannot afford to waste LS additive costs in all axles. Again, peace of mind requires choosing OEM products. ------- Trying to simplify my life... | |||
|
| Member |
The delvac might be exactly what I am looking for. When I search 75w90 synthetic gear oil this is what I find https://www.autozone.com/greas...oil-1-quart/1437_0_0 | |||
|
| Member |
The point was that vehicle mfr’s do everything they can to push you to buy from them. OEM’s don’t make their own oil. They farm it out. To Valvoline, Penzoil, Exxon-Mobil, etc. AMSOIL, since it’s been brought up several times, does indeed stress test their lubricants severely. It’s the reason why many race teams, cars, trucks, motorcycles, use them. They were the first synthetic mfr. Their products are used on road circuits, racing, Baja, anything you can think of. Same goes for Redline. I don’t think I can ever recall in 25 years, an OEM fluid bottle surpassing heat mitigation and shearing capability of the industry leaders. Lubricants, like firearms or ammo, well to me it’s tiered. There are several major oil forums where you can read lab analysis for any vehicle. Diff oil (lube), transfer cases, MTF/ATF, engine oil, name it. People post lab analysis from such labs as Blackstone. I’ve never seen Mopar, Ford, or GM branded lubricants that can meet or surpass capability of “3rd” party manus. It’s easy to see the forest for the trees as well. My truck and my performance car are made by two different manufacturers. Both call for 0W-20 for engine oil. 0W is for cold start emissions testing. The 20 weight is for MPG. That oil spec is for them to meet EPA testing, not for performance or the longevity of my engines. I tow often with my truck, so I’m not using what the OEM recommends for oil weight because it’s hot garbage. Same for my performance car. 5w-30 is used in my truck, same for performance car but I will soon up that to 5w-40 because I’m paying attention to race teams and tuners who have moved to that weight and have the data to back it up. This is a decent forum where people post lab analysis and where you can find recommendations for non-farmed out vehicle mfr lubricants. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ What am I doing? I'm talking to an empty telephone | |||
|
| Member |
I’d say, IMO, perfectly fine to use. I use the same weight AMSOIL and just put it in my transfer case, and rear differential. What am I doing? I'm talking to an empty telephone | |||
|
| Knowing a thing or two about a thing or two  |
That's what I have put in my last 3 Ram 2500 HDs that didn't need LS additive and what will go in my daughter's 2021 1500 Ram that does need LS additive Hray https://www.amazon.com/Mobil1-...5%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-1 P226 NSWG P220 W. German P239 SAS gen2 P6 1980 W. German P228 Nickel P365XL M400 SRP | |||
|
| Powered by Social Strata | Page 1 2 |
 | Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|
© SIGforum 2024