So the drivers side door will no longer lock or unlock by way of the the power button or the remote. The door locks and unlocks by way of the key and the manual lock on the door.
The passenger side works as normal with the passenger side button and remote. But not when you try the button on the drivers side.
The driver’s window also does not operate by way of the driver’s window switch.

I am presuming that swapping out the switch should solve the issue. Since the locks and window went out at the same time.
https://www.1aauto.com/master-...0161?f=733320&y=2000

That would the switch itself (both driver and passenger) receive a signal from the remote and then lock or unlock the door. Or is there a centralized receiver for the remote?

Also do the 2000 Silverados have a transponder in the key for the ignition that need programmed or can I just have a key cut?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Black92LX,

I had a 2000 Silverado. Unless yours is very different, it will not have a chip in the key. I had to have a key made at a dealership when I was working out of town a number of years ago.

You didn't mention the mirror control--does it work? If I'm understanding your write-up, NONE of the other driver-side switches work? Then it should be either the switch module itself (I think it strange that all functions would be affected)or the power supply to the modules.

Mine used to display some weird behavior if a ground wire got loose or broken.

The solenoid that locks and unlocks the door (inside the door) is most likely bad. They generally go bad from time to time.

I did not test the mirror.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
The solenoid that locks and unlocks the door (inside the door) is most likely bad. They generally go bad from time to time.

Would that solenoid have an effect on the windows too?

Kind of why I think it is the switch since both are in the same module.

Though the bad ground is a possibility if the mirrors quit working too.
But that will be a bit as my mother borrowed the truck and she is now out of town.

Rather it be the switch as that is a simple swap compared to tracing the ground issue.
Ground split on my Explorer but it was common and always in the same place.

Fuse?

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
I did not test the mirror.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
The solenoid that locks and unlocks the door (inside the door) is most likely bad. They generally go bad from time to time.

Would that solenoid have an effect on the windows too?

Kind of why I think it is the switch since both are in the same module.

Though the bad ground is a possibility if the mirrors quit working too.
But that will be a bit as my mother borrowed the truck and she is now out of town.

Rather it be the switch as that is a simple swap compared to tracing the ground issue.
Ground split on my Explorer but it was common and always in the same place.

No, the solenoid would only effect the electric lock and unlock.

If the windows are effected and other items, jumper the switch connections and see if the items work, if not check the harness connection inside the kick panel just forward of the door.

See if opening or closing the door to varying degrees makes a difference. wires in the harness between the door and body break often.

My drivers window quit working completely during the coldest part of winter, but just started working again as it has warmed up. Prior to the cold weather, it only did not work when I opened the door fully. I can make it work by manipulating the harness. I plan to repair the wiring soon with better wires.

I think you have two separate problems with the door.

The key fob transmits a signal to the receiver module, that in turn supplies the signal via wire to the power door lock actuators. Probably the lock module is bad, attached to the door lock. I do not remember if the lock module is serviced separately or part of the door lock assembly, across the GM lines some were, some were not.

The power window failure is one of four things in the order of occurrence, switch, motor, regulator,wiring. The window regulator in those were problems, they were a cable and pulley affair. Could be bound up inside the door? Terrible setup, wear, tear, trying to operate a ice frozen window all were death to that design.

Anyway, you could probe with a 12v test light the connector at the door switch first and jump the wires there. If it works, problem over, if not, time to pull the door panel. Some of those window motors of that era were replaceable separate from the regulator, some only serviced as a assembly though.

On the wiring, if memory is correct there is a connector in the cowl area under the dash that the door harness plugs into, check that first if the diagnosis points to wiring.

One good thing with that switch, GM Engineering (contradiction of terms) did not make that switch one that had to be programmed to the Body Control Module like some, it's just a switch. Where that switch is on the door panel it gets water into it pretty easily, that is why I think that is the problem first.

On the keys, not a transponder key, it's a "dumb" key. The security system in the ignition is actuated by a magnet and a sensor built into the ignition lock cylinder. On GM's of that era they had two keys with transponders. On the key shank one had the letters "PK3", the other one had a circle with a plus symbol in the center, one side of the key shank only. The keyway pattern was different also if memory is correct so you could not insert a transponder key into a non transponder lock and the other way around. I keep thinking the parts catalog listed some oddball listing for a transponder key option but from the introduction of the GMT 800 series in 1999 to the time I retired in 2017 never once saw one of that truck series with a security key and I did see A LOT of those in that time frame. I worked in two high volume car and truck dealerships and also at one Commercial Truck dealership, that is all I saw, pickups, SUV's and Medium Duty GM trucks in that last one.

I hade a similar problem with a 2000 volvo. I googled the problem, windows would not roll/up down. I did find a online source for the switch, and a youtube on repair without replacement.

the grease from the factory would harden over time, and contacts in the switch would only work intermittently.

did both, clean and repair, then replace when the aftermarket switch came in.

ymmv

john

GMs of that age had weak lock actuators. I bought mine online from Rockauto and a local mechanic installed them for about $30.

Thanks for the inputs. My mother has it for the next couple weeks so it will be a bit before I can fool with it.

Finally got around to fooling with this.
I pulled the door panel and did not see any broken wires.
I put a new switch in and the problem remained the same.

So I have no mirror control passenger or driver from drivers door.
Passenger window rolls down from drivers switch drivers window does not.
Drivers door lock switch does not unlock either side.

Remote locks and unlocks passenger side only.

I’ll need to try to jump the switches I guess. Electrical is not my wheelhouse so I guess I’ll need to check out some YouTube videos.

I had a problem of my mirrors and windows not working properly. The windows would sometimes go down but it would take a while of pushing the switch to get them back up. I ended up putting in the main control switch on the drivers door. Now everything works normal.

Finally Solved!!!
Got some time to devote to this today and figured I would start at the fuse box.
So went to look under the dash at the fuses to work the other way and a wiring harness seemed out of place above the parking brake pedal.
After tracing it to the fuse box turns out it was the drivers door harness.

My mom had the truck for a bit and the parking brake cable snapped so she had it replaced. That harness runs with the brake cable behind the fuse box and drivers kick panel trim. I am guessing Instead of putting the harness back they just draped it on top of the parking brake pedal so at some point when the parking brake was pushed it must have pulled the wires enough to disconnect. Because I rewrapped the harness finding no broken wires and ran it properly plugged it back in and everything worked.

So all my power stuff works again but this looks strange to me.
Seems I am possibly missing a relay.




Says LBODY Retained Accessory Power Relay
Wondering if it is for a fancier model that has some extra interior goodies.
I have the Z71 Off-road model but not with the upgraded interior package.

I think its a wiring harness connection for stuff you don't have.

Thread discussing a 2002 with a picture of the hole populated.
https://www.silveradosierra.co...lverado-t603305.html

RAP (Retained Accessory Power) is the thing that lets you listen to the radio or operate the windows for 30 mins after shutting off the vehicle, or until a door is opened.

Your Silverado should have that feature, regardless of package level.

quote:

Originally posted by Leeann:
RAP (Retained Accessory Power) is the thing that lets you listen to the radio or operate the windows for 30 mins after shutting off the vehicle, or until a door is opened.

Your Silverado should have that feature, regardless of package level.

I know the radio stays on until I open the door. Never tested it out to 30 minutes.