quote:

Originally posted by KMitch200:
I'm shocked that someone in MA overseeds.
Doesn't it get covered in snow in about 2 months?

quote:

Originally posted by jigray3:
Sounds like you did a soil test, that's step one. In lieu of topsoil, a layer of compost evenly distributed will do wonders for your soil foundation. It's a little work to apply though.

K31 is a Gen 1 wide blade fescue that tends to grow in clumps. It's the choice of builders because its cheap and grows fast, which means a lot of mowing. I prefer a newer generation fescues with a finer blade that is more drought and disease resistant and gives a more carpet like dark green appearance. There are usually mixes developed specifically for your area. I like mixes because yard composition and sun exposure varies so that one seed in the mix may thrive in one area while a different seed may thrive in another. Jonathan Greene will likely make one for your region.

I utilize the SOD system for over seeding - September, October, December. September is areation, seed, fertilize, and lime. I like to areate heavily to give the seed better purchase. Over raking will also improve germination rates a great deal. I prefer a starter fertilizer for this one with a higher phosphorus content, the middle number on the bag. It's harder to find these days due to run-off restrictions, but this really helps get the roots going, one of the most vital aspects of your lawn's health. I fertilize again in October and December with slow release fall fertilizers.

Then, in my area, I follow up with weed/crabgrass pre-emergent in March and May, though I can get out there earlier if there's a warm spell and the weeds pop.. Next comes high nitrogen green up fertilizer in May (first number on the bag), and broadleaf control, insect control as necessary in the summer. I like to try to knock all the weeds down in August, 4 weeks before I overseed.

As for irrigation, you'll want to keep the soil damp, but not wet, until seed germination, usually 9-14 days. Then 1"/week during the growing season. An empty tuna can makes a good gauge to calibrate you irrigation system.

Sounds like a lot of work, but it really isn't, maybe 20-30 hours per year. I used to spend a great deal more than that and had an immaculate lawn, but I found I could do 20% of the work and get 90% of the results. Im in the Mid-Atlantic, timing is likely to be a little different for MA, so do your research.

quote:

Originally posted by Oz_Shadow:
How short are you mowing?

quote:

Originally posted by jigray3:
Sounds like you did a soil test, that's step one. In lieu of topsoil, a layer of compost evenly distributed will do wonders for your soil foundation. It's a little work to apply though.

K31 is a Gen 1 wide blade fescue that tends to grow in clumps. It's the choice of builders because its cheap and grows fast, which means a lot of mowing. I prefer a newer generation fescues with a finer blade that is more drought and disease resistant and gives a more carpet like dark green appearance. There are usually mixes developed specifically for your area. I like mixes because yard composition and sun exposure varies so that one seed in the mix may thrive in one area while a different seed may thrive in another. Jonathan Greene will likely make one for your region.

I utilize the SOD system for over seeding - September, October, December. September is areation, seed, fertilize, and lime. I like to areate heavily to give the seed better purchase. Over raking will also improve germination rates a great deal. I prefer a starter fertilizer for this one with a higher phosphorus content, the middle number on the bag. It's harder to find these days due to run-off restrictions, but this really helps get the roots going, one of the most vital aspects of your lawn's health. I fertilize again in October and December with slow release fall fertilizers.

Then, in my area, I follow up with weed/crabgrass pre-emergent in March and May, though I can get out there earlier if there's a warm spell and the weeds pop.. Next comes high nitrogen green up fertilizer in May (first number on the bag), and broadleaf control, insect control as necessary in the summer. I like to try to knock all the weeds down in August, 4 weeks before I overseed.

As for irrigation, you'll want to keep the soil damp, but not wet, until seed germination, usually 9-14 days. Then 1"/week during the growing season. An empty tuna can makes a good gauge to calibrate you irrigation system.

Sounds like a lot of work, but it really isn't, maybe 20-30 hours per year. I used to spend a great deal more than that and had an immaculate lawn, but I found I could do 20% of the work and get 90% of the results. Im in the Mid-Atlantic, timing is likely to be a little different for MA, so do your research.

quote:

Originally posted by chellim1:

quote:

We have mainly sand under our loam and the contractor didn't really give much loam. I'll take any recommendations. Hoping to go buy seed today.

I'd put down some topsoil first. Around here you can get a dump truck delivered for a little over $100. I know, everything's more expensive in Mass...
But you're probably wasting your money on good seed if you've got bad dirt.
Spread out your topsoil, rake it a bit to fill in holes and low areas, then rake in your new seed.

quote:

Originally posted by frayedends:

quote:

Originally posted by Oz_Shadow:
How short are you mowing?

3.5 inches. I like to keep it long. Heard that’s best for lawn.

quote:

Originally posted by KevinCW:

quote:

Originally posted by chellim1:

quote:

We have mainly sand under our loam and the contractor didn't really give much loam. I'll take any recommendations. Hoping to go buy seed today.

I'd put down some topsoil first. Around here you can get a dump truck delivered for a little over $100. I know, everything's more expensive in Mass...
But you're probably wasting your money on good seed if you've got bad dirt.
Spread out your topsoil, rake it a bit to fill in holes and low areas, then rake in your new seed.

Where?

I need some.

quote:

Originally posted by Wolfpacker:
I am in the process of working on some thin/bare spots now with Kentucky 31 fescue. Started it this past week due to possibilities of rain for the area Friday night and Saturday. Not a drop! Watering it now. Ugh!

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:
Where are you buying your seed, and what mix is it?

quote:

Originally posted by PASig:

quote:

Originally posted by frayedends:

quote:

Originally posted by Oz_Shadow:
How short are you mowing?

3.5 inches. I like to keep it long. Heard that’s best for lawn.

It really does work! I had been scalping my grass all this time thinking you needed the grass to be golf-course-short and this year in conjunction with Lawn Doctor doing their thing, left my mower at the second to highest height setting and it worked great.

The grass grows thicker and crowds out the weeds and the taller grass also protects the roots from the summer heat and sun.

quote:

Originally posted by frayedends:

quote:

Originally posted by PASig:
So, what seed did you go with?!

.

I got the Kentucky 31 from Tractor supply as you suggested. I also bought some lime but my pH measurement shows I don’t need it. Will see how it goes.

quote:

Originally posted by PASig:

quote:

Originally posted by frayedends:

quote:

Originally posted by PASig:
So, what seed did you go with?!

.

I got the Kentucky 31 from Tractor supply as you suggested. I also bought some lime but my pH measurement shows I don’t need it. Will see how it goes.

So, how is your Kentucky 31 growing?

I had Lawn Doctor do a power seeding on October 1 with DLF K31 seed I supplied and it's starting to germinate now, which is what I expected for K31 and the cooler weather we are having.