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Fourth line skater
Picture of goose5
posted
Never done it before. I've been told if I use the sticky mesh tape that doesn't require any back mud to use hot mud or it will crack. After the first coat can I return to all purpose mud? Any other tips and tricks?


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OH, Bonnie McMurray!
 
Posts: 7662 | Location: Pueblo, CO | Registered: July 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
A Grateful American
Picture of sigmonkey
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Large job or small patch?

Fiberglass mesh is good, but it requires a bit more mud. I prefer paper tape and "regular" mud.

Use many thin coats with ample drying time after the first bed in joint and screw/nail fill, and the largest knife you can work with well.

Check your framing before putting up any boards with string and get your walls/ceilings in plane so you don't have waves.

After surfaces are finished, use a flashlight laid against the wall to see high and low spots so you can address them.

"floating out" in wide swaths helps minimize the high and low areas by reducing the angle.

As long as you are patient and have time, you can correct your finish work.

Slick wall is hardest to pull off, second is "knock down" (like "Spanish Lace") and textured is the easiest to get a good overall look if you struggle with a "perfect" surface.

Where good mask/respirator as the dust is hell on sinuses and lungs and eyes. It also will suck all the oils off your skin.

Use some lotion, you don't want to be Bill Burr ashy...

Dust is going to get everywhere and it will kill a shop vac, so get a small cheap one to clean up so you won't hate tossing it in the garbage when it dies and save your expensive big ol' Crafstman shop vac.




"the meaning of life, is to give life meaning" Ani Yehudi אני יהודי Le'olam lo shuv לעולם לא שוב!
 
Posts: 44587 | Location: ...... I am thrice divorced, and I live in a van DOWN BY THE RIVER!!! (in Arkansas) | Registered: December 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
non ducor, duco
Picture of Nickelsig229
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How big a job are you doing? Patch, room, and entire house?




First In Last Out
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: CT | Registered: October 15, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Fourth line skater
Picture of goose5
posted Hide Post
Small downstairs bathroom.


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OH, Bonnie McMurray!
 
Posts: 7662 | Location: Pueblo, CO | Registered: July 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of ShouldBFishin
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sigmonkey gave some great advise.

After the mud has dried, I use a wet sponge to knock down imperfections rather than sanding.
 
Posts: 1826 | Location: MN | Registered: March 29, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
quarter MOA visionary
Picture of smschulz
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by ShouldBFishin:
sigmonkey gave some great advise.

After the mud has dried, I use a wet sponge to knock down imperfections rather than sanding.


^^^^ Yes, I was going to say the same thing.
 
Posts: 23329 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: June 11, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
I am a leaf
on the wind...
posted Hide Post
I use paper tape for new jobs, and mesh to fix holes. Buy the good tools, 3 metal(not plastic) 6" 8" and 12" knives, metal mud pan. And a mud mixer. You can use regular mud for everything. Hot mud requires mixing and sets up fast, and dries incredibly hard, which means much more sanding. As a beginner, you will be sanding a lot already, no need to make it worse by using hot mud. Regular mud is fine, it just takes longer to dry, at least three light coats with sanding between. Watch a lot of videos on you tube.get the premixed mud, and add water to it to make it easier to apply, usually a couple cups per 5 gallon bucket, use the mud mixer to stir it up thouroughly. If you dont want to mix the whole bucket, put some in your pan, then add a little water in the pan and stir it as you use it, a little water, teaspoon at a time. Like melty peanutbutter. It should be easy to spread, but holds its shape. On each next layer, a little more water so that it almost spreads out by itself on the last coat.


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"We must not allow a mine shaft gap."
 
Posts: 2172 | Location: Elizabeth, CO | Registered: August 16, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Hop head
Picture of lyman
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by sigmonkey:
Large job or small patch?

Fiberglass mesh is good, but it requires a bit more mud. I prefer paper tape and "regular" mud.

Use many thin coats with ample drying time after the first bed in joint and screw/nail fill, and the largest knife you can work with well.

Check your framing before putting up any boards with string and get your walls/ceilings in plane so you don't have waves.

After surfaces are finished, use a flashlight laid against the wall to see high and low spots so you can address them.

"floating out" in wide swaths helps minimize the high and low areas by reducing the angle.

As long as you are patient and have time, you can correct your finish work.

Slick wall is hardest to pull off, second is "knock down" (like "Spanish Lace") and textured is the easiest to get a good overall look if you struggle with a "perfect" surface.

Where good mask/respirator as the dust is hell on sinuses and lungs and eyes. It also will suck all the oils off your skin.

Use some lotion, you don't want to be Bill Burr ashy...

Dust is going to get everywhere and it will kill a shop vac, so get a small cheap one to clean up so you won't hate tossing it in the garbage when it dies and save your expensive big ol' Crafstman shop vac.


+1

I am a total amateur, but will add that good use of the knife, and the light coats, (run the knife along once dry to knock off high spots, )
works

also, to keep dust to a minimum, a wet sponge will clean up a lot of stuff,, vs sanding the crap out of it,



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Posts: 10641 | Location: Beach VA,not VA Beach | Registered: July 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of SIGfourme
posted Hide Post
Regular drywall for areas where water exposure is low. Wetrock in shower or tub area.
 
Posts: 2385 | Location: Southeast CT | Registered: January 18, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
A Grateful American
Picture of sigmonkey
posted Hide Post
Yes. "Wetrock/Durock" or similar for wet areas. (tub/shower surrounds and floors, proper floorpan/membrane/liners)

Ask questions until you are comfortable to move forward.

If you have the skills and confidence to do the work, it is not complicated, but it is complex.

And if you can do it and save money, and have the reward of doing your won work, I fully support you doing it.

It's like a man cooking his own gottdamned bacon... nothing tastes better. Except tuna. Tuna always taste's better...




"the meaning of life, is to give life meaning" Ani Yehudi אני יהודי Le'olam lo shuv לעולם לא שוב!
 
Posts: 44587 | Location: ...... I am thrice divorced, and I live in a van DOWN BY THE RIVER!!! (in Arkansas) | Registered: December 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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