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Music's over turn
out the lights
Picture of David W
posted
We are going to list our house in a few weeks so I need to go ahead and fix a broken rafter so it is one less thing on the home inspection report.

I assume this happened when we had our new roof put on but of course I did not notice it. My question to you guys is what is the best solution for this?

I was thinking about sistering a board up against it but as you can see in the pic some of the 2x6 splintered off. IMO I think it would be ok but would love some of you guy's opinion.







David W.

Rather fail with honor than succeed by fraud. -Sophocles
 
Posts: 3645 | Location: Winston Salem, N.C. | Registered: May 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
As Extraordinary
as Everyone Else
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Yes, you can sister a rafter up against it. I would make it as long as possible.

If you wanted to be anal about it you could put one on each side...


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Eddie

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Posts: 6485 | Location: In transit | Registered: February 19, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Caribou gorn
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If possible, sister a full length board, from top plate up to ridge beam, next to it. Toenail down into the top plate and into the ridge beam and nail to the existing rafter.



I'm gonna vote for the funniest frog with the loudest croak on the highest log.
 
Posts: 10623 | Location: Marietta, GA | Registered: February 10, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
10mm is The
Boom of Doom
Picture of Fenris
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quote:
Originally posted by smlsig:
Yes, you can sister a rafter up against it. I would make it as long as possible.

If you wanted to be anal about it you could put one on each side...

I did this with a broken, vertical, truss support. Worked fine and wasn't even mentioned by the home inspector.




God Bless and Protect the Once and Future President, Donald John Trump.
 
Posts: 17588 | Location: Northern Virginia | Registered: November 08, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
McNoob
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Here's how we ran some sister stringers on my roof when we re-shingled. I had removed some walls in the interior and ran micro-lams for support. We had a few dips in some places. When we finally got around to re-shingeling we wanted to shore them up. Ran from the top plate to the ridge beam.





"We've done four already, but now we're steady..."
 
Posts: 1839 | Location: MN | Registered: November 20, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Music's over turn
out the lights
Picture of David W
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Thanks for all the replies guys, I got two boards so there are no questions about strength. I know what I am doing tomorrow or the next day Confused


David W.

Rather fail with honor than succeed by fraud. -Sophocles
 
Posts: 3645 | Location: Winston Salem, N.C. | Registered: May 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Make sure to use enough nails. In my experience most engineer's letters for this call for two nails every 4-6 inches.


------------------------------
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Posts: 2901 | Location: RDU, NC | Registered: March 07, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Just Hanging Around
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Unless you have a nail gun, I'd consider screws.

I hate beating on something like that with a hammer.
 
Posts: 3278 | Location: NE Kansas | Registered: February 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Altitude Minimum
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quote:
Originally posted by Muddflap:
Unless you have a nail gun, I'd consider screws.

I hate beating on something like that with a hammer.


THIS! If house is old, consider pre drilling also. Use Torx screws. Everything else sucks.
 
Posts: 1306 | Location: Shalimar, FL | Registered: January 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I would use some construction adhesive as well.
 
Posts: 3255 | Location: MD | Registered: March 23, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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All of the above. Double, screws, adhesive.

But then, I am pretty anal about overbuilding...

.
 
Posts: 2164 | Location: south central Pennsylvania | Registered: November 05, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Music's over turn
out the lights
Picture of David W
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I am going to use HeadLOK structural screws they replace 3/8" lag screws, probably overkill.


David W.

Rather fail with honor than succeed by fraud. -Sophocles
 
Posts: 3645 | Location: Winston Salem, N.C. | Registered: May 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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This is overkill. Bolts. 1/2” by 5-1/2” half a dozen on each side of the break.
Guaranteed never to rip, tear, or give an inch!


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Posts: 1146 | Location: Vermont | Registered: March 24, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
10mm is The
Boom of Doom
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I don't know how construction adhesives compare to wood glue. But I've never gone wrong with Titebond III. The wood will rip apart before the glue gives way.

Bolts and screws too. Belt and suspenders. Rain coat and umbrella. EDC and BUG.

One is none.




God Bless and Protect the Once and Future President, Donald John Trump.
 
Posts: 17588 | Location: Northern Virginia | Registered: November 08, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
That rug really tied
the room together.
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I would sister a board on each side and use massive bolts to bolt it all together.


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Posts: 6708 | Location: Floriduh | Registered: October 16, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Fenris:
I don't know how construction adhesives compare to wood glue. But I've never gone wrong with Titebond III. The wood will rip apart before the glue gives way.


I think I'd use Titebond also but sand the old rafter surface first to get to solid wood. Pre drill the new rafter than screw them tight together.


No car is as much fun to drive, as any motorcycle is to ride.
 
Posts: 7327 | Location: Northern WV | Registered: January 17, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Hop head
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sister boards,

nail or screw, would prefer nails

don't use decking type screws (tend to be brittle)

no need to get all crazy with the glue and bolts,



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Posts: 10629 | Location: Beach VA,not VA Beach | Registered: July 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
10mm is The
Boom of Doom
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Crazy is fun. And nothing ever broke because it was over-engineered.




God Bless and Protect the Once and Future President, Donald John Trump.
 
Posts: 17588 | Location: Northern Virginia | Registered: November 08, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Keep in mind that the existing rafter is already loaded up with stress from the weight of the roof and shingles above it, and it has taken on a deflected shape.

When you add the new sister rafters to it, they will only take the burden of future loads on your roof, for example snow or wind.

For a roof rafter the dead loads are light compared to the wind and snow loads, so your repair is ok.

However, keep in mind if you were strengthening a column in your basement it might be good idea to relieve the load from above it before strengthening the column itself. Because the column would have a lot of dead load on it.
 
Posts: 551 | Location: New Hampshire | Registered: July 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Rev. A. J. Forsyth
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Is that vermiculite insulation? Did it come from Libby, Montana? Might want to get it tested.

We got burned when we sold our 50's era house and had to pay for remediation before we could sell.
 
Posts: 1639 | Location: Winston-Salem  | Registered: April 01, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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