I use a PM935TS for most of my heavier mill work. Its a fantastic quality full featured bridgeport clone, Taiwan made.

I like the G0704. About 5-6 years ago I converted a small batch of G0704s to CNC, using integral Asrock mainboards, a bunch of accessory electronics and Ghekodrive stepper controllers, all housed in some nice German Optimum enclosures.

The things ran so good that I kept one and still use it today. I also designed and manufactured my own 2 speed gearbox w/integral spindle locks for the head.

Its my favorite machine! I was pretty proud of that batch.

Ill see if can post a pic.

screen shot tool

quote:

Originally posted by PHPaul:
You have a link to that list?

Not anymore, unfortunately. This was about 5 years ago. I did a quick search on Google Groups for "grizzly mill" and came back with lots of posts, but no solid link to the list itself.
 

quote:

Originally posted by henryaz:
Not anymore, unfortunately. This was about 5 years ago. I did a quick search on Google Groups for "grizzly mill" and came back with lots of posts, but no solid link to the list itself.
 

That's what I found as well. I thought maybe my google-fu was weak today.

quote:

Originally posted by PHPaul:

quote:

Originally posted by henryaz:
Not anymore, unfortunately. This was about 5 years ago. I did a quick search on Google Groups for "grizzly mill" and came back with lots of posts, but no solid link to the list itself.
 

That's what I found as well. I thought maybe my google-fu was weak today.

I just discovered I had saved all of the documentation/pictures/schematics etc. from the design of that spindle lock. I've just emailed you with the zip file attached.
 

FWIW ... I buy almost all my shop equipment through auctions, mainly going out of business. Lots of machining equipment, vices, measuring stuff and tooling all for far far less than retail. JG Murphy does the auctions I attend.

Usually you get time to preview and do your research. For example I see all kinds of amazing deals like my last buy which is a Rockwell A,B,C tester for my knife work (Heat treat consistency). Paid $400 for a $2-3k device.

quote:

Originally posted by Ken226:
... Bad results are a certainty without knowing the minutia of detail that gets one good results. A good machinist spends many years of 8hr days learning the minutia of detail.

Brush up on algebra, geometry and trig. Youll need to be able to calculate chip load, surface speed, feed speeds. ...

I think 90% of being an expert is knowing the terminology of the field. I think if I knew what is the difference between an indexable end mill and just an end mill, I'd be much further along. I can do the algebra, geometry and trigonometry but I just don't know what is being said in some of the videos and Google is useless in this case as nothing comes up that informs, only sales. I think I need a book.

Pick up a copy of "the home machinists handbook" by Doug Briney.

Alot of the terminology will be picked up over time as well, as your interest drives you to find new turning and milling projects.

A turners cube is a good first lathe project. It'll have you using an independant 4 jaw chuck, facing, drilling, turning, boring, measuring and a few other operations. And result in a cool paperweight too!

https://youtu.be/Av5M8LePDBY



Indexable tooling uses pre-made throw-away carbide inserts. The insert holder allows the insert to be rotated to a new cutting edge when the old edge wears or brakes:

https://www.carbideanddiamondt...der-Sets-Series-2615

As opposed to brazed carbide tools:

https://m.banggood.com/11Pcs-B...Z7cwSPhoCYcYQAvD_BwE

Or ground high speed steel (HSS) tools.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/4...zkm0BtxoCE4EQAvD_BwE

Buying heavy equipment is a very easy process. Most of the old machines can be bought very cheap. But the logistic of moving them to your location is a real pain and very cost prohibitive (forklift, flatbed truck). Beside, it's very dangerous to move a 6000lbs lathe.

I often drooling about some of the machines that my company sells on the online auction. They are almost a scrap metal price.

I am in the process of re-powering a 1942 Monarch 10EE lathe. If you can afford the fund, the new Jet Lathe made by the Taiwanese can be good. Stay away from the chinese made lathe.

Good lucks,

recent auction:
http://investmentrecovery.sout...tail&auctionID=15291

quote:

Originally posted by dangho731:
Buying heavy equipment is a very easy process. Most of the old machines can be bought very cheap. But the logistic of moving them to your location is a real pain and very cost prohibitive (forklift, flatbed truck). Beside, it's very dangerous to move a 6000lbs lathe.

I often drooling about some of the machines that my company sells on the online auction. They are almost a scrap metal price.

I am in the process of re-powering a 1942 Monarch 10EE lathe. If you can afford the fund, the new Jet Lathe made by the Taiwanese can be good. Stay away from the chinese made lathe.

Good lucks,

recent auction:
http://investmentrecovery.sout...tail&auctionID=15291

That's way beyond what I'm going for. I'm talking bench top stuff. I want to make a few pulleys and cogwheels.

quote:

Originally posted by Ken226:
Pick up a copy of "the home machinists handbook" by Doug Briney.

Alot of the terminology will be picked up over time as well, as your interest drives you to find new turning and milling projects.

A turners cube is a good first lathe project. It'll have you using an independant 4 jaw chuck, facing, drilling, turning, boring, measuring and a few other operations. And result in a cool paperweight too!

https://youtu.be/Av5M8LePDBY



Indexable tooling uses pre-made throw-away carbide inserts. The insert holder allows the insert to be rotated to a new cutting edge when the old edge wears or brakes:

https://www.carbideanddiamondt...der-Sets-Series-2615

As opposed to brazed carbide tools:

https://m.banggood.com/11Pcs-B...Z7cwSPhoCYcYQAvD_BwE

Or ground high speed steel (HSS) tools.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/4...zkm0BtxoCE4EQAvD_BwE

Excellent! Thanks. I'll check that book out.

quote:

Originally posted by dangho731:


I am in the process of re-powering a 1942 Monarch 10EE lathe.

I must own a 10EE someday, if there are any serviceable machines left by then.

quote:

Originally posted by Ken226:
Pick up a copy of "the home machinists handbook" by Doug Briney. ...

I ordered it. Should be in tomorrow.

When talking about a lathe, what are the dimensions? I'm looking at a 7 x 16. I know the 16 is the length of the ways but what is the 7? Is it the distance the tool holder can move front to back or the diameter of your stock it can cut?

Pick up a used Machinists Handbook. Dont buy a new copy. There's not much difference between this years and one or two years ago.
A 9" South Bend lathe will perfect for your needs. A heavy 10 would be better. I can move mine with a engine hoist.
A simple list for your lathe:
Quick change tool post for turning, boring, threading, cut off, grooving
Knurling tool and carriage stop
Milling attachment
Thread indicator
Live center
Drill chuck for tail stock

quote:

Originally posted by mark123:
When talking about a lathe, what are the dimensions? I'm looking at a 7 x 16. I know the 16 is the length of the ways but what is the 7? Is it the distance the tool holder can move front to back or the diameter of your stock it can cut?

The first number denotes the theoretical maximum diameter you could "turn". I believe this is also referred to as "swing". I have a 10" lathe and could turn a 10" diameter disc in theory, assuming I could mount it on a faceplate. For the jaws of a chuck to grab it externally, it would exceed that 10" number.

The last number is usually thought of the maximum distance between centers, or the longest piece of stock you could successfully turn on that particular lathe.

quote:

Originally posted by shiftyvtec:

quote:

Originally posted by mark123:
When talking about a lathe, what are the dimensions? I'm looking at a 7 x 16. I know the 16 is the length of the ways but what is the 7? Is it the distance the tool holder can move front to back or the diameter of your stock it can cut?

The first number denotes the theoretical maximum diameter you could "turn". I believe this is also referred to as "swing". I have a 10" lathe and could turn a 10" diameter disc in theory, assuming I could mount it on a faceplate. For the jaws of a chuck to grab it externally, it would exceed that 10" number.

The last number is usually thought of the maximum distance between centers, or the longest piece of stock you could successfully turn on that particular lathe.

Thanks.

quote:

Originally posted by Captain Morgan:
Pick up a used Machinists Handbook. Dont buy a new copy. There's not much difference between this years and one or two years ago.
A 9" South Bend lathe will perfect for your needs. A heavy 10 would be better. I can move mine with a engine hoist.
A simple list for your lathe:
Quick change tool post for turning, boring, threading, cut off, grooving
Knurling tool and carriage stop
Milling attachment
Thread indicator
Live center
Drill chuck for tail stock

I really want something for the bench. Not a large machine. I don't have the space.

quote:

I really want something for the bench.

That is what I with for in the southbend ,but I found I need a strong table[I used my 3/8 steel welding table]
Should have passed on it because I had to upgrade motor and variable power drive.
New chucks [2] and still buying tooling almost weekly..
That $200.00 I bought this thing for has cost me a grand more.
Mark what ever you buy , check it out really good and don't be me.

A used lathe is like a used car. You can get a great deal or you can get burned.

If your interested in a new, benchtop size lathe, i've used the PM1030 and its a good little machine.

The 10x30 is worth the extra couple hundred $ over the 10x20.

It comes with an AXA sized quick change toolpost, which is a must-have.

10 inch swing is good for most stuff you might work on and 30" between centers is plenty for most work, including rifle barrels.

The 1" spindle bore, while small, isnt bad for a machine of this size. It means youll be limited to 1" or smaller parts/rifle barrels through the headstock, but 30" is enough to mount most barrels between centers.

https://www.precisionmatthews....p/pm-1022v-pm-1030v/

I bought several machines from Precision Mathews and they are a stand-up company. Usually when i call the owner himself answers the phone.

They also have a small milling machine similar to the G0704 but with some better electronics and support. They'll take care of you.

https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-25mv/

I missed a deal on a small lathe (https://www.facebook.com/marke...em/2201173230164021/) so when a smaller 7x10 micro lathe came up for $300, I picked it up. It's a harbor freight tool but it seems ok. It had some tooling and a drill chuck and some miscellaneous stuff but it's missing the internal jaws and the threading gear set. I wonder if I can just pick up the gears from HF.

How do I go about choosing a threads per inch? Is there a standard?

Realistically, is it better to just break out the tap and die set?