I've put in vinyl plank flooring before and it's fairly easy. Dealt with transitions for doorways to another flooring type without trouble.

My question is has anyone dealt with it when it comes to stairs going down. Going up I can just run it to the riser.

Coming to a set of stairs that goes down brings up some issues. I've seen a nose piece from one place but then you have to use their flooring. Anyone has experience with vinyl plank flooring meeting a set of stairs going down. I like to be able to walk into Lowes or HD get some flooring and make it work. Don't know if they have something that would make it work.

Edited: Not changing the carpeting on the stairs. Just need to deal with that lip for the first step down. With wood, they make the stair edge. VPF doesn't make it that easy.


photo is not mine but basically what I'm dealing with.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: comet24,

I have this exact issue in my house, but I do not have carpet on my stairs: I have old lenolium that I'm replacing with new oak treads, and the tack-in wood risers from Lowe's. I have a click-lock Mannington product on the main floor, and was using their Stair-Nose solution, until I decided to tackle the stairs.

Unfortunately, their nose was too shallow, and didn't cover the subfloor in its entirety, AND with all the traffic, the top of the nose piece was cracking from all of the foot traffic.

I fabricated a red oak nose from a 1x6, in that I cut off about 1" and then glued it to the underside on the other factory edge. Sanded, etc, and then stained it to a very close color of my LVT. Cut out the subfloor and then shimmed up the new nose with thin pieces of wood, that ran the length of the new nose, so that it was just a hair higher than the LVT.

Installed the new tread on the stair below, then the new riser, and finally glued and screwed in the new nose.

I cut back the LVT and got it almost exactly married to the new nose, and then glued that piece of LVT with a single bead, and then ran a super small bead of black caulk between the LVT and the new nose.

I have to do this again on the garage entry landing, to the basement steps, but I feel confident that it'll work again. The only thing is that I'll have to spend more time on the LVT as the stairs turn, and there will be about 5 or 6 pieces of LVT hitting the nose.

I hope this helps!

I posted some info in this thread on how I did mine.
https://sigforum.com/eve/forums...120022474#4120022474

Initially I wasn't too fond of the Aluminum nosing, but it's turned out to be better than I figured. The aluminum is easy to see in the dark, and provides good traction.

Yup. That's way awesome. Thanks for the link.

I personally wouldn't do the aluminum ends but some may like it.
If you have not already committed to a plank I would FIRST look for a vinyl stair tread that you like.
THEN find a whole floor plank that is either the same, matches or if different one that compliments the other.
THAT way you get the proper bullnose front and a MUCH better look.

Not touching the stairs. This is for a family friend I'm helping. They originally wanted the new vinyl plank on the stair and I basically said no. Just need to deal with that first step down so it looks right.

Currently, there is cheap laminated wood flooring. Was going to go right over it with the VPF.

I would use a real oak nose and stain to match.

quote:

Originally posted by YellowJacket:
I would use a real oak nose and stain to match.

The height will not match the vinyl plank.

Either find manufactured nosing that will work or you will have to get a custom nose piece made.

Maybe an idea here of what you can do or have someone make for you. It shouldn't be that bad since you only have 1 piece to deal with.

https://www.123albertastairs.com/


You can also find videos on YT of people bending, with heat, their own LVP pieces to make nosing.

The problem with using an oak bullnose trim piece is the height would be a trip hazard.