February 28, 2019, 06:12 PM
JD2177Wood workers, help please - Tree round.
quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
quote:
beeswax
Beeswax melted with heat gun and brushed in was one thing I also found.
the cracks may not be all that deep yet, and could disappear when planing to thickness.
The beeswax works to keep the moisture in and only allows it to escape from the sides slowing down the drying time. Some types of Paint work as well.
What is your ultimate goal for using this?
If you were making a table you could eventually cover it with a poured bar top finish and the cracks would fill. You can even fill them with crushed stone first to add an accent.
February 28, 2019, 07:26 PM
sig229-SASquote:
Originally posted by Elk Hunter:
What I would do would be to embed it in a bunch of damp wood shavings wrap it up in brown paper and let it dry slowly. It works on the wood turnings I do out of green wood. I would suggest about a month of drying time, or even 6 weeks, given the size of it. Should make a really nice coffee table, for example.
I agree with Elk Hunter, we are both wood turners and I do the same thing. Also as pointed out by Sig Marine, Anchoseal works very well. Slow drying is the key, speed it up to much and you will pay a price with huge cracks.
March 01, 2019, 12:53 AM
hrcjonIf you are going to ultimately plane it, then ordinary paint will work fine to slow the drying and limit cracking.
March 02, 2019, 11:06 AM
Skins2881I ordered some
Pentacryl for it. It's already started cracking, but some cracking is fine as in the end it will be filled with epoxy. I may even fill cracks with a dyed epoxy to create cool accents. My main concern is I don't want any complete radial splits or anything that would affect the integrity of the entire hunk.
So given I have purchased this really expensive product and am now committed to using it. I need help on where to dry it. My shed is way too small, so that leaves the outdoors or my basement. I can wrap in plastic in either place so that remaining moisture loss is limited. I have no where outside that would not be exposed to the elements. The back of the house is cantilevered but only by 5' between the first floor and roof combined, so it will get rained on in heavy rain or wind.
March 02, 2019, 11:17 AM
Elk Hunterquote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
I ordered some
Pentacryl for it. It's already started cracking, but some cracking is fine as in the end it will be filled with epoxy. I may even fill cracks with a dyed epoxy to create cool accents. My main concern is I don't want any complete radial splits or anything that would affect the integrity of the entire hunk.
So given I have purchased this really expensive product and am now committed to using it. I need help on where to dry it. My shed is way too small, so that leaves the outdoors or my basement. I can wrap in plastic in either place so that remaining moisture loss is limited. I have no where outside that would not be exposed to the elements. The back of the house is cantilevered but only by 5' between the first floor and roof combined, so it will get rained on in heavy rain or wind.
That thing is probably pretty heavy, and hard to handle, but I would put it in the basement. After all the work of getting it ready to dry, etc why chance it? If steps are involved, I would lay down some plywood on the steps and slide the round down on that. I would wrap a rope around it to provide some control as it heads down the steps. Hand truck on plywood would be my first choice, as after all your work you would not like to see it broken if it takes off on its own down the steps.
March 02, 2019, 11:24 AM
SportshooterDo you have a friend with a garage? Could you put it up in your attic?
If you put it in your basement don’t wrap it in plastic. It will trap the moisture.
You might consider making a somewhat roomy little tent of canvas over it with a 60 or 75 watt incandescent lamp underneath to gently and SLOWLY drive away the moisture. Be sure to protect that lightbulb from any combustibles.