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quote:
Originally posted by Riley:.....
I may even look at upgrading the brake fluid if that will help.

Regardless of which pad and rotors you consider i would strongly recommend a complete brake fluid flush. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and will naturally absorb water over time. Most high performance car manufacturers recommend replacing fluid every two years...


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Posts: 6317 | Location: In transit | Registered: February 19, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The fluid was flushed.

I’ll probably swap the back rotors out and all new pads, I just had the brakes replaced but I should have had it done at the dealer or did it myself it seems.




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Posts: 8344 | Location: West | Registered: November 26, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I’m sure they didn’t get seated/bedded though. Right out of the bay, around the block and then turned back to me. Empty the truck does great, maybe I expect too much. The loaded trailer is ~ 2,200 to 2500lbs. I’ll have to get it weighed.




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Posts: 8344 | Location: West | Registered: November 26, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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New pads and rotors for the front on the way. May do the back again this fall just to have OEM.




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Posts: 8344 | Location: West | Registered: November 26, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Swapped in new OEM rotors and pads in the front and got them bedded.

Judging by how hard it was to get the rotor off, they didn’t resurface the front rotors like they said. They were pretty grooved after two weeks. Plus they failed to put the anti rattle/pad return return spring on the drivers caliper so it was filthy and probably dragging more than it should.

Stops much better now. It was an expensive lesson, I should have done it myself the first time. Cost me $250 or so for OEM front pads and rotors and 3 hours time because I had to run to the store to get a kit with the spring and pins. The fluid would have been another $30 or so for the flush.

I’ll be shopping for a trailer axle with brakes and and swapping wiring to support just to make it better.




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Posts: 8344 | Location: West | Registered: November 26, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Rotors don't have to be removed to be resurfaced.

It may be cheaper to buy brakes for your axle rather than a whole new axle with brakes.
 
Posts: 10943 | Location: SWFL | Registered: October 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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At this shop they do have to be removed. Though I understand it’s a better job if done mounted to the hub.

I found online that the bolt holding the horn on under the hood is the correct size to put in the hole in the rotor and pop it off much easier that way!




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Posts: 8344 | Location: West | Registered: November 26, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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At least you got it sorted out.

Nothing chafes me more than paying a "pro" to not do/screw up a job that I can not do/screw up for free.
 
Posts: 10943 | Location: SWFL | Registered: October 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by trapper189:
Rotors don't have to be removed to be resurfaced.

It may be cheaper to buy brakes for your axle rather than a whole new axle with brakes.


Been doing car maintenance since the mid-70s and never seen this. How do you resurface rotors still installed on the vehicle?






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Posts: 14038 | Location: It was Lat: 33.xxxx Lon: 44.xxxx now it's CA :( | Registered: March 22, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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With an on the car brake lathe. LINK
 
Posts: 10943 | Location: SWFL | Registered: October 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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