I'm looking to install some "Short Trax" tie down cleats to the outside bed panels on my 2015 Toyota Tundra 5.5 foot bed. I would like to use the supplied machine screws with washers and nuts versus the supplied self-tapping screws in order to maximize load capacity. To do so I'd need access to the backside of the bed's outer panel. Does anyone know if there is way to get access there? I mean, I know it'd be tight and I'd have to get creative with ways of holding that nut. I'd sure like to give it a shot if at all possible.

Here is what the cleats look like.

With tie down clipped in.



Without tie down clipped in.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: parallel,

Don't know about access but there are several different types of thread certs or rivet nuts available for that application. You don't need a rivet gun to install them, just run a nut with washer down a longer bolt from the front to collapse the back of it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rivet_nut

I would think you might get more specialized advice on https://www.tundras.com/

You would probably be best off with one of those expanding anchors/fasteners. Basically like one of those cheap plastic drywall anchors, but made of metal and heavy duty.

I know that is what they use to attach the rails on top of cars for cargo boxes/racks. I would think the wind load for one of those would greatly exceed the tie down load for your purpose.

The back side of the bed's outer panel? You mean the backside of the bed wall, maybe? I've installed similar ties downs to the top of the bed rail, where there's reinforcement. Toyota also has their own cargo management system they call a deck rail system that installs immediately under the bed rail lip with different types of cleats available that slide on a track, but it may or may not be located in the area you want or have the load capacity you're looking for.

quote:

Originally posted by jigray3:
The back side of the bed's outer panel? You mean the backside of the bed wall, maybe? I've installed similar ties downs to the top of the bed rail, where there's reinforcement. Toyota also has their own cargo management system they call a deck rail system that installs immediately under the bed rail lip with different types of cleats available that slide on a track, but it may or may not be located in the area you want or have the load capacity you're looking for.

Yeah, I've got the rails and the toe down cleats that go with them. In fact my Retrax Pro tonneau cover uses that rail as it's connection points. No, what I'm looking to do is have tie down points outside the bed.

quote:

Originally posted by rizzle:
Don't know about access but there are several different types of thread certs or rivet nuts available for that application. You don't need a rivet gun to install them, just run a nut with washer down a longer bolt from the front to collapse the back of it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rivet_nut

This is what I've decided upon, except I bought the rivet nut install tool as well, AND I went with stainless steel Rivet Nuts.

Those rivet nuts are about your only option. I see you've addressed that. Now, is the sheet metal of the outer surface thick enough to take ratchet straps (or whatever tie-downs you use) without bending?

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
Those rivet nuts are about your only option. I see you've addressed that. Now, is the sheet metal of the outer surface thick enough to take ratchet straps (or whatever tie-downs you use) without bending?

These tie downs are really only going to be for things like cinching down a tarp or tying down a cargo bag, so it should be fine.

I finally got these installed and I think they look pretty good for what they are. I couldn't find my blue thread locker so tomorrow I'll be taking them back off, applying some RTV to the backs of the cleats and blue loctite to the threads. The cleats are rated to 500 lbs. and the install seems pretty solid. Even so, I don't know if I'd put that kind of load on them due to the fact that they're just rivet nutted to the sheet metal. Thankfully in my application I won't have to come even close to that.

A 23/64 drill bit makes the perfect size hole to install the 1/4 20 rivet nuts. I added a bit of black RTV to inhibit rust.



I opted for Stainless Steel 1/4"-20 Rivet Nuts...



... and a REXBETI 14" Auto Pumping Rod Rivet Nut Tool to install them.



For anyone interested this is where I ordered the Tie-down Tracks - 5 inch Black pair - Uni-Trax 1000 from. I opted for six of them, two on each side and two on the tailgate.

nicely done!!

Its not going to take much to rip those out of the fender.

quote:

Originally posted by walker77:
Its not going to take much to rip those out of the fender.

Oh, I don't know about that. I've been looking at roof racks and many of the most stout designs are attached to the roof using rivet nuts. As I said, I don't know if I'd try to ratchet strap something down with them... but these are plenty solid for their intended purpose.

Are those just going into the body sheet metal?

quote:

Originally posted by PowerSurge:
Are those just going into the body sheet metal?

Yes, and with proper installation (which is why I chose to buy the installation tool) the 1/4" 20 round rivet nuts are rated at an estimated average of 480 lbs for pullout . Each cleat has two... as I've said, plenty stout for my purposes.

Niiiiiiiiice

Nice job. Good looking Tundra!

We've been super busy since we returned from our trip so I haven't had time to update this until now. The cleats worked beautifully... the "waterproof" cargo bag... not so much.





As I said, the tie downs works exactly as intended with absolutely zero problems. The fairly expensive cargo bag that we got that is supposed to be "waterproof" leaked each time we encountered rain (it didn't help that we drove through the remnants of Hurricane Barry on the return trip). It wasn't a large leak but it was enough to be a pain in the ass. We wised up on the return trip and put everything that went into this bag in garbage bags first and that worked, but that shouldn't have to be the case.

I think the problem is that we didn't have enough items inside to make the sides of the bag stand up. This left the zipper vulnerable to water pooling up on the sides. I'm going to try to build a lightweight "frame" of sorts to give the bag a way to retain it's shape and see if that works. Until I know conclusively though, it looks like I'll be buying lots of Glad bags... LOL.