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Picture of Prefontaine
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Most difficult sport I’ve ever attempted and learned. I would say even harder than learning how to ride a literbike around a circuit, with some level of precision. Maybe that’s because the water scares me (being under it, not on top) but it’s extremely difficult. These dudes usually start as soon as they can walk. You have to be lean (low body fat %), strong (lean muscle mass), great lungs, know the ocean, and know how to NOT get yourself killed (water weighs tons) or drowned. People think surfers are stoners etc, nah. Read up and watch Laird Hamilton. Dude is built like a linebacker and pioneered tow in surfing at Peahi. Also has titanium hips, countless injuries (too many to really count). This sport is no joke, especially the big wave guys.



What am I doing? I'm talking to an empty telephone
 
Posts: 13046 | Location: Down South | Registered: January 16, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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