Are there any internet type sources for standard kitchen type cabinets that is cheaper than Home Depot?

The other question is regarding load bearing walls.... our 2 story house has what appears to be some sort of beam (encased in drywall) that helps support the second story. There is about 12 feet of open space beneath it then about 8 feet of wall. The wall separates our kitchen from a living area. My lovely bride is inquiring if it’s possible to take out part of the wall to crest a large “window” to help open up the space (thank you HGTV). I don’t know much about this stuff but I assume, at minimum, a post has to stay at the edge of the wall.

The question is who I do I need to talk to figure out what can and can’t be done? Is it a general contractor? Some sort of engineer? An inspector? Do projects like that typically require permits? I assume so butbthis is all new to me.

If you want cabinets cheaper then home depot I would suggest just using card board boxes from the post office. if your lucky hd cabinets will last you 5 years if you never use them. you get what you pay for when it comes to cabinets.

(I have been a cabinetmaker for 32 years)

you will need a general contractor to check the load bearing wall and to tell you what can be done.

Buy good cabinets that last. You get exactly what you pay for.

So what makes a good cabinet? Material? I think the stuff at Home Depot is oak except for the mdf core on the doors but I could be wrong

Looks like you are going to remodel your kitchen. This can be expensive, but consider it an investment that will increase the value of your house and retain the increased value. Your wife is on the right track; opening up a kitchen is a great improvement. Quality cabinets will retain their good looks and functionality.

There are many sources for cabinets other than HD & Lowes. A dedicated kitchen cabinet dealer would be a good place to start. He/she can offer known remodeling contractors to look at the remodeling. Actually, Lowes Kraftmaid line can be upgraded to a decent cabinet.

What are the hallmarks of a quality cabinet? Materials, construction, finish. There is a quality standards agency, KCMA, that certifies factory built cabinets minimum quality.

Materials: Most residential cabinet boxes are made of industrial particle board with a film-type finish. Both sides must be coated. Quality plywood boxes may be much more expensive.

Construction: There are basically two types of cabinet box construction: Framed and Frameless. I would get the framed. Get upgraded, name brand hinges and both wood dovetail drawer boxes and name brand undermount guides.

Finish: Stain, paint, foil. I would go with stained first, painted second, foil last. Make sure you get plywood finished end panels.

A competent installer is a must. Most are subcontractors and have to cut corners to meet the price the big box store pays.

Bob Villa has been hawking this site on TV of late:

https://cabinetstogo.com

quote:

Originally posted by thumperfbc:
So what makes a good cabinet? Material? I think the stuff at Home Depot is oak except for the mdf core on the doors but I could be wrong

I've used Ikea for two kitchens and I've installed them in a third kitchen. For the money you spend, and the options they offer, I'd go back there again.

HUD compliant cabinets have to be solid plywood. Frankly, they're a step up from many box store cabinets.

We use them at work, for locations where we really don't care about aesthetics and they seem to work well.

Ikea makes some decent kitchen stuff. Is it really high end? No, but it's not trying to be. I built my whole condo kitchen with Ikea and plan to do it again someday.

Anyone have experience with ordering kitchen cabinets from Costco?

Can't offer any advise on cabinets as. All of ours are custom built by a Dunkard (Amish) group and are works of art and meant to outlast the owners.
You should hire a structural engineer to evaluate the beam/wall situation as a contractor will have to anyway and you will at least know the expected cost. He may also be able to suggest a good contractor.
You will also need a permit....

quote:

Originally posted by PASig:
Ikea makes some decent kitchen stuff. Is it really high end? No, but it's not trying to be. I built my whole condo kitchen with Ikea and plan to do it again someday.

I despise Ikea but I did my entire kitchen for 10k, including install, counter tops, sinks and appliances (basically everything but flooring). Granted I have a small house but there is I believe a 20 year warranty on the cabinets. I tried HD, Lowe’s and other places and there is nobody close. I will say I am greatly pleased with the Ikea installers and all of their products I used and there is no other place close to their price.

We used Yorktowne in 1988 when we built our house. Still look good and in great shape. Not real high end but not Home Depot either. I would not be afraid to use them again. Most cabinets are made from particle board. The frame and doors and drawer fronts should be made from solid hardwood. Lots of options to choose from. Check load bearing specs on whatever you decide to use.

quote:

Originally posted by thumperfbc:
The other question is regarding load bearing walls.... our 2 story house has what appears to be some sort of beam (encased in drywall) that helps support the second story. There is about 12 feet of open space beneath it then about 8 feet of wall. The wall separates our kitchen from a living area. My lovely bride is inquiring if it’s possible to take out part of the wall to crest a large “window” to help open up the space (thank you HGTV). I don’t know much about this stuff but I assume, at minimum, a post has to stay at the edge of the wall.

So, she just wants a hole in the wall? You would need to size a beam to make the span over that new hole. A review of your homes construction is necessary. Then you open the wall and see what the existing framing is doing and how it needs to be modified.

quote:

The question is who I do I need to talk to figure out what can and can’t be done? Is it a general contractor? Some sort of engineer? An inspector? Do projects like that typically require permits? I assume so butbthis is all new to me.

A GC is the place to start. There are structural standards as part of building code that can be reliably followed for what is needed to support upper floors and roof structure. Sometimes an engineer is needed, but the tables in the code book get a lot done.

A project like this would require a permit, and it is in your interest to get one, as these days buyers often ask for permit and construction history. Frankly, for a GC to do something without a permit could screw you in a variety of ways, should it fail.

When you apply for a permit, they will tell you if they expect anything stamped by an engineer.

quote:

Originally posted by thumperfbc:
The question is who I do I need to talk to figure out what can and can’t be done? Is it a general contractor? Some sort of engineer?

In my opinion, ask the person with professional credentials, a professional structural engineer. A GC is a good place to start. However, I have first hand seen the main beam supporting my in-laws house begin to buckle because it was improperly sized by someone in the construction process. The plans clearly called for a W8x__ (can't remember weight) steel beam, but it was replaced with 2 laminated wood beams that were not enough for the nearly three story load. Another thing to consider is deflection. While a certain size beam may certainly be capable to carrying the load, it may deflect too much for your application.

quote:

Originally posted by thumperfbc:
. . .The other question is regarding load bearing walls.... our 2 story house has what appears to be some sort of beam (encased in drywall) that helps support the second story. There is about 12 feet of open space beneath it then about 8 feet of wall. The wall separates our kitchen from a living area. My lovely bride is inquiring if it’s possible to take out part of the wall to crest a large “window” to help open up the space (thank you HGTV). I don’t know much about this stuff but I assume, at minimum, a post has to stay at the edge of the wall. . .

You very likely have a beam over the "12 feet of open space", but that beam is not at all likely to extend into the wall past the columns that support its ends.

If you want to make the "12 feet of open space" bigger, ie: take out the "about 8 feet of wall", then you have to do two things:

First you need to make sure that 8-foot wall is NOT a shear wall, ie: a wall designed to keep your house erect by acting in resistance to lateral seismic and/or wind forces. You'll probably have to do some destructive investigation to find out. If it's sheathed in plywood underneath the sheet rock, then it is likely designed to be a shear wall. If it's not sheathed in plywood, then it's unlikely that your home's designer was counting on it to resist lateral forces and you can remove it without reducing your house's ability to remain standing under heavy wind or earthquake.

Second, you will have to replace the current beam that is over the "12 feet of open space" with a beam designed to span not just those 12 feet, but also the added length of the portion of wall that you remove. If you take out all 8 feet of wall, then your beam will have to span 20 feet. That's do-able, but probably will involve using some steel. That's not a big deal; it could be as simple as gluing and bolting 1/4" plates on each side of a double 2x12 lumber beam. It'll be best if you hire a PE to design that beam for you. Whoever designs that beam for you may also tell you to beef up the lumber columns supporting the beam ends. Instead of being double 2x4 oriented with their edges facing the wall face, just like the studs in your existing wall, they may need to be double 2x6 or double 2x8 turned with their edges facing the wall edge, faces facing the wall face, and a strip of 1/2" plywood between them to make their out-to-put measure 3-1/2".

Thanks,

Sap

Cabinetry is my profession, unfortunately some of the manufacturers we work with may not ship out to CA

Some imported lines have made huge improvements with construction and quality such as Fabuwood out of NJ

Lines I would look for at a dealer near you:
Omega- high end
Yorktowne - high end
Executive - mid to high
Homecrest - mid line
Kitchen Kompact - good value line
Fabuwood - best value (probably won't find it on the west coast)

Take care and good luck

So I remembered my neighbor had her kitchen remodeled last year and our houses are the same. I sent her a message and asked if she considered modifying the wall. She stated she had several quotes done for just that. The various contractors all said it would require permits, inspections, and a large beam and quoted in the $20,000 range just to remove the wall. They also suggested a window instead but didn’t get that quoted or done.

Is it possible to ballpark costs on doing something like a window?

quote:

Originally posted by cne32507:
Actually, Lowes Kraftmaid line can be upgraded to a decent cabinet.

We did just this about 5 years ago. I feel that we got good cabinets for the money. I could not have justified spending the money for premium cabinets given the value of my home. I would never get that money back out. I have been very happy with the Kraftmaid line and Lowes. The only thing I would have done differently is to upgrade the hinges. I didn't know any better at the time and after about two years, I had to start adjusting them about every 3-4 months. Lowe's was also great to deal with when we hated the installed light rail moulding. They ordered an new one, removed the old, and installed the new and didn't charge us anything.