"Break-in oil" change -- Worthwhile or overkill?

August 03, 2024, 05:02 PM

@4MUL8R

How much headroom is there in basestocks, add packages and final product to account for fuel dilution in GDI engines? With UOAs posted on other forums, dilution amounts vary from trace to much more.

Does the margain consider 0w8 and 0w16 oils, city v. highway driving, high load and does that change the change interval recommendation?

Setting aside warranty concerns, would dilution issues be adequately addressed by changing to a higher viscosity oil, such Xw20 to 5w30, even within that,there are thin and thick too, such as 9.3 v. 11.9.

Do you find ACEA oils to be more robust overall compared to ILSAC and in particular, 5w30 A3/B4 v. 5W30 SP Dex1Gen3 or are SP oils more similar to A7/B7?

August 03, 2024, 10:22 PM

wrightd

quote:
Originally posted by vthoky:
Hey, I'm going to twist this for a moment, now that synthetic oils have been mentioned a number of times.

Twenty years or so ago, in my old 2002, the advice about switching from "dino juice" to synthetic said that I should wait until about 30k miles before the switch. I'm not sure which type of oil is in this Toyota from the factory (dino or synthetic), but a lot of the current advice is to go ahead and go synthetic.

In my 2002, I've really liked the synthetic. An oil change is roughly twice as expensive as one with dino oil, but I only have to change half as often. (It sees light duty these days, so I don't really worry about a 6k or 7k change interval, where its original materials use the old 3k-mile "standard."). To me, that's a simple time savings, which is certainly worthwhile.

I'm totally happy to go synthetic with the new ride. I don't mind a bit. But if it's got regular oil in it from the factory, and previous advice was to wait much longer before switching, my natural questions are "why," and "what's changed?"

That conventional rule is WAY WAY WAY out of date. Drain the dino, fill w/Full Synthetic, you're gtg. Also, I doubt ANY new factory vehicles are filled with Dino oil from the factory. None, nada, zip. Seriously.

August 03, 2024, 10:54 PM

Prefontaine

quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
^^^Did my first change with mine yesterday. 1865mi. Oil is packed up for Blackstone to drop off Monday. I can share with you if you're curious.

Sure. All the Blackstone reports are on that forum. We did all the ‘24 CE updates (steering rack, rear suspension, brake ducts) to my ‘23 CE last weekend. I had all the fluids with me to gut the entire thing, powertrain, drivetrain (diff, transfer case, MTF/diff, and engine oil) but we ran out of time. Your oil will come back outstanding from Blackstone. The break in oil Motomachi uses is pretty good. I’m going to take mine out tomorrow to the country to hit my twisty roads and try and get the rear diff to overheat in 100 degree weather

August 03, 2024, 11:20 PM

old rugged cross

I am pretty sure most new cars have synthetic oil from the get go. I know Toyota's do.

August 03, 2024, 11:45 PM

Skins2881

quote:
Originally posted by Prefontaine:
quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
...

Sure. All the Blackstone reports are on that forum.

I work 50-60 every week, haven't had a chance to spend much time on the forum exploring, or working on the GR for that matter. Found the guy for the roof PPF, just need the time off.

I’m going to take mine out tomorrow to the country to hit my twisty roads and try and get the rear diff to overheat in 100 degree weather

Nice! Not sure if I root for or against you...

August 04, 2024, 08:09 AM

jimmy123x

I've read that up to 7% fuel dilution is ok on a Blackstone report that came back at 5%.

August 12, 2024, 08:21 PM

vthoky

As an update, I went ahead and did the job this past weekend. It's not difficult, I didn't have to get the truck on a lift or anything, and it was a great chance to get acquainted with the bits and pieces on the underside.

The MotivX oil change kit (wrench, funnel, drain tube) was certainly a worthwhile expense.

Note for future: don't cheap out on the three-buck oil catch pan. It holds seven quarts, and you're going to drop more than six into it. Good luck transferring that into another container (for recycling) without making a fantastic mess!

- - - - - - -

ETA: https://www.motivxtools.com/

August 12, 2024, 08:27 PM

old rugged cross

Good to hear. Six plus qts? Is that the capacity on the T4R?

How did the oil look? Dirty?
How was the filter for metal flakes?

What did you do for oil?
What mileage?

As I mentioned the Kirkland is supposed to have tested better than Mobil one? Way cheaper too.

August 12, 2024, 08:35 PM

vthoky

Yessir, capacity is stated at 6.6 quarts.
The oil that came out was dark, but not yet black. I started to keep it, for use in the old mower, but decided against it.

The filter didn't look bad at all -- I didn't examine it closely, but there was nothing there that was obviously funky.

As for oil, I went with Mobil1, in the specified 0W20. Mobil1 is a staple here, used in all the engines. Heck, I even use it in the mower sometimes. I read the piece on Kirkland, just didn't see any around here.

August 12, 2024, 08:46 PM

Skins2881

quote:
Originally posted by old rugged cross:
Good to hear. Six plus qts? Is that the capacity on the T4R?

How did the oil look? Dirty?
How was the filter for metal flakes?

What did you do for oil?
What mileage?

As I mentioned the Kirkland is supposed to have tested better than Mobil one? Way cheaper too.

Here's what mine looked like at 1,865 mi. Did it at dealership so I didn't get to see the filter. Used Toyota full syn 0W20.