Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
Member |
Thank you, tatortodd. I suspected it had to do with "evolution" -- simply better construction now than 20+ years ago. God bless America. | |||
|
Drill Here, Drill Now |
You're welcome. I neglected to add that modern engines tend to be smaller displacement and have turbos (e.g. Ford F150 ecoboost engine instead of a 351 V8). Small displacement turbos generate more heat and preventing thermal breakdown is a strength of synthetic oils. Ego is the anesthesia that deadens the pain of stupidity DISCLAIMER: These are the author's own personal views and do not represent the views of the author's employer. | |||
|
אַרְיֵה |
I asked the independent service shop that I use, to install one of these at my last oil change. They vehemently recommended against it and told me that they had seen a couple failures that had caused the vehicle to dump all its oil on the highway. Stated that if a valve like that failed and killed the engine, it would not be covered under the Ford warranty. On the other hand, the A&P shop that maintained my Bonanza recommended a similar quick-drain for the airplane. הרחפת שלי מלאה בצלופחים | |||
|
Irksome Whirling Dervish |
What kind of failure? Failure of the unit itself would be nearly unheard of. I have 20 years of Fumoto use without Failure or leaks. This involves a low clearance cars and a couple of SUVs who go offroad, snow, fire roads and they remain rock solid. | |||
|
Giftedly Outspoken |
My opinion is a break in oil change is worthwhile. I'll throw out another option, if you don't want to do a full oil change, then maybe just a filter change at 1K miles? After all, if there is any fine debris from break in, it will be caught in the filter media. Changing the filter will remove the debris, and at the same time make sure your filter isn't clogged and is properly flowing. Lastly I do 5K oil changes on my vehicles. I think 3K is to early and 7500-10K is way too long. Sometimes, you gotta roll the hard six | |||
|
| Member |
My rule is under warranty, dealer. If something happens it’s on them. | |||
|
Member |
My 12-year-old Tacoma requires synthetic oil. I can't believe the newer models would not. If it was my truck, I would look in the manual and find the specs of the oil Toyota recommends, then buy an oil of my choice that meets those specs. The suggestion "let the pros do it because they can do it better" has come up. I would say that if the OP has any doubts about his abilities, he should go to YouTube and find oil change videos for his exact vehicle. Watch a few, because some will be great and some very poor. Then ask "can I do this?" My guess is that any careful person can do as well or better than the rookie the dealer assigns the job to. It might be worth researching whether this early oil change could somehow void your warranty. I can't imagine that would hold up in court, but if your engine is known to have warranty issues, you may want to heed Lucnik's advice. Personally, I would do it but not mention it to the dealer. ... stirred anti-clockwise. | |||
|
| Member |
I'm not worried about my ability to do the job. I've done a number of oil changes on various engines. Certainly, YouTube vids have taught me a lot about this particular model already.
I don't see an early oil change being a warranty problem, particularly if using Toyota-spec materials. It may not be the best filter on the market, but I can't go too wrong in that regard by using an OE toyota filter and the same oil they use. As far as the pros doing it better, my thought there is simply that those guys would have it up on a lift rather than crawling up underneath it, so visibility is far better. And their experience is far greater than mine, in terms of knowing what trouble spots to look for. Any of us can follow the documented guidelines (look here, check that, tighten these, clean those, etc) but people who see the underside of a vehicle know about the things that arent necessarily documented. In manufacturing we call that tribal knowledge -- things that are known but not necessarily written down. God bless America. | |||
|
| Staring back from the abyss  |
I tried one on my truck ('12 F250) and it leaked. Put another one on and it leaked. Then, I realized that it is not difficult in any way, shape, or form, to unscrew a drain plug. Put the factory one back in and got on with life...with no oil leaks. ________________________________________________________ "Great danger lies in the notion that we can reason with evil." Doug Patton. | |||
|
| Savor the limelight |
The oil filter will not catch the fine debris from break-in which is the whole reason for doing the early oil change. Used oil analysis backs this up. | |||
|
| Member |
I agree with trapper - break-in material is typically under 20 microns in size, most of which is too small to be caught by the filter. | |||
|
| As Extraordinary as Everyone Else  |
I was hoping you’d chime in here as I was wondering if you knew my client. His initials are RS and it sounds like you may work for the same company. ------------------ Eddie Our Founding Fathers were men who understood that the right thing is not necessarily the written thing. -kkina | |||
|
| Irksome Whirling Dervish |
Today is nearly impossible, to likely virtually so, to buy an oil that isn't synthetic. If you 12 year old Taco required either 0w or 5w-20, it can't be made without synthetic oil. Group III base stock can be synthesized to give it the properties of Group IV at a very attractive price point, which is why you see the synthetic oils at, say, Walmart in the mid $20 range for a 5 qt jug. | |||
|
| Back, and to the left  |
If it gives you piece of mind, do the early oil change. Relatively cheap for piece of mind. Plus, if you do it, you know and don't just trust if things got over or under tightened. I would recommend using a factory filter, (until you are out of warranty at least) though. | |||
|
| I Am The Walrus |
I always changed it within a few hundred miles not because it was break in oil but because I wanted to put the oil I would use in there over the factory fill. Doing your own oil changes certainly cannot void your warranty. You do not have to take it to the dealer or any shop for your warranty to hold up. It's not an uncommon tactic for dealers to try to scare consumers to come to the dealer for service. https://www.autocare.org/gover...on-Moss-Warranty-Act Been using Fumoto valves for 4+ years without any issues. _____________ | |||
|
Member |
I usually change to Amsoil immediately post break in of the motor. I have a process I do with break in, varying RPM’s constantly, no steady state cruise, to seat the rings, and I set RPM limits that change every few hundred miles. But my purchase last year was a Toyota, and they definitely use break in oil on my particular model. I read up on the Blackstone Laboratories oil analysis people were sending in. I saw labs on oil with 621 miles (break in is 1000 km, which is 621 miles), 1000 miles, 2000, 3000, 4000, and 5000. Many of which had track days done, or two, on the oil sample. The oil hadn’t broken down yet and Blackstone said it was still good when they changed it, still doing its job, same with the OEM filter. I’m coming up on 2k miles and will change it by 3k. Not worried about it. But it is a specialty car from Toyota built in their specialty factory and for once they took care to put specific oil into it for break in. An oil analysis is cheap, effective, and the only reality with OCI’s. The rest is old wives tales. What am I doing? I'm talking to an empty telephone | |||
|
Ammoholic |
^^^Did my first change with mine yesterday. 1865mi. Oil is packed up for Blackstone to drop off Monday. I can share with you if you're curious. Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
|
Truth Seeker |
I do my oil the way I want. I don’t care what anyone says, but any new vehicle I have ever gotten, I change the oil at 500 miles when it is brand new to get any metal shavings out. Maybe it isn’t required, but I do it. After that, I use synthetic and change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles. I recently pulled out the oil pan on my 22 year old truck to replace the oil pan gasket. I have seen videos and most have lots of gunk in the pan. I was shocked at how clean my oil pan was. NRA Benefactor Life Member | |||
|
Shall Not Be Infringed |
I use the Factory/OEM Filter for the FIRST oil change. I look at the construction & materials of that specific filter, and then I move to aftermarket filters that meet or exceed what the OEM Filter offers for all subsequent oil changes. The oil filters for all of my vehicles are the replaceable element type which makes it pretty easy to evaluate them: - In the case of my '09 Volvo S60 I use a Mahle filter, - For my '13 Volvo XC70 I use a MANN Filter, - And in the case of my '10 Audi S5 (w/ 4.2l V8) I use a Mahle Filter. The above filters are OE, as in they are made by the same company that produces the OEM filter for the vehicle manufacturer! They are often available at HALF the price of the OEM Filter (the one in the 'Blue Box'), with ZERO loss in quality or performance! Something to think about...  I've also switched to Liqui-Moly Oil for all vehicles, and return the complete Oil Change to FCP Euro (Used Oil, Oil Filter and the Crush Washer...So EVERYTHING!) for full credit under their 'Lifetime Warranty' program, as touted previously by others on SIGforum!  ____________________________________________________________ If Some is Good, and More is Better.....then Too Much, is Just Enough !! Trump 2024....Make America Great Again! "May Almighty God bless the United States of America" - parabellum 7/26/20 Live Free or Die! | |||
|
| My other Sig is a Steyr.  |
Same here, My '05 truck came with Mobil-1 from the factory because it was designed for use with Mobil-1. The filler cap, owners manual, and shop manual all say Mobil-1. Spec'ed out or just good marketing? I don't care. Synthetic oil is way cheaper than main bearings. While I have no need to buy a new ride, I would change the oil at 750 and 2,500 miles before referring to the recommended schedule / service light intervals if I had one. | |||
|
| Powered by Social Strata | Page 1 2 3 4 5 |
 | Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|
© SIGforum 2024