Good morning, SF. Today's curiosity has me thinking about an "early" oil change in the new ride.

Now that I have a whopping 1400 miles on it, I'm thinking on an oil change. It's been over 20 years since I had a new engine to break in, so I'm probably behind the knowledge curve.

Of course, the owner's manual suggests 5k-mile oil change intervals, but there's a part of me that wants to go ahead and replace the original oil, particularly given what Toyota is going through with its new Tundra engines. (That's about machining debris left in the engine upon assembly, for those not familiar. (Link))

Following the thought path a little further last night, I worked myself into the classic "do it myself or visit the dealer" question. There's enough clearance underneath it that I wouldn't have to put it on jack stands or a rack, so that's a plus.

So I started doing the math. A quick guess based on service records for my other vehicles says I'll be in for $75-100 if I visit the Toyota dealer about it. If I elect to do it myself, there are tools I don't have, such as the $30 filter housing socket. That, plus about $35 in oil, plus $6 or so for the filter cartridge, plus a container to catch the old oil, plus some rags and gloves... I'll be in for roughly $85 at that point once we add taxes, shipping on the socket, and so forth. In terms of dollars, I might come out even on the job, and with the benefit of owning the tools for future use. And I'll know the bolts and housings won't be overtorqued.

In terms of time, I'm sure I'll take three times as long as the dealer to do the job -- gather tools, make a mess, do the job, clean up the mess, take the old oil somewhere for disposal, and so forth. Ehh, that's what weekend afternoons are for, right? And I'll gain experience on this particular vehicle -- again, preparing for the future.

So after all that, I keep coming back to the original questions:
1) Is it a worthwhile task, or is it overkill? It can't hurt, right?
2) Do it myself, or let the "pros" tackle it?

DIY every time for me.
Last dealer oil change I got, voluntarily, was on my 2016 F150.

Fumoto valve makes it a much easier job, and you never have to worry about damaging the drain plug.

Even on my Mercedes, which necessitated removing 2 undertray panels to get to everything, worth the peace of mind knowing it was done properly.

4Runner would probably be nearly tall enough to not even need to lift to get to the drain pan, I know my Expedition just barely is; but it's easier with the front end elevated a bit.

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DIY every time for me.

Fumoto valve makes it a much easier job, and you never have to worry about damaging the drain plug.

^^^^ This.

I put in Stahlbus valves ILO of Fumoto ones. Other than letting the oil drain, it doesn't take all that long to accomplish.

To answer your question - is a break-in oil change worthwhile? It wouldn't hurt.

You'll have oil and filter costs. I assume you have a socket sized for the drain plug. With my drain valve and hose I drain directly into cleaned out used gallon containers (like gallon vinegar containers). Old newspapers on the garage/driveway floor. You'll probably need an oil filter wrench or a cap that goes on the filter and you use your socket wrench to unscrew it. Note: the asshole who put on the oil filter at the factory probably used an air wrench. I have always had a difficult time getting the oil filter off for the first time.

My v8 tundra holds 8+/- qts. The 5 min oil change price for full syn puts it near $150 drive out. I can do it for 50. For me, saving 100 is worth it. If your health is bad, maybe getting under cars is not for you. If you can, buy or build ramps and diy.

I'm more than happy to pay extra to let someone else do my oil change. The great thing about the Valvoline Instant Oil Change places is you know exactly what's going in your car, there's almost always a $15 off coupon on their website, and there's no waiting room because you stay in your car while they change the oil.

However, unless you're driving a high performance automobile or you're doing stuff that would qualify as "severe service:"

 Frequent idling for long periods of time, such as stop-and-go driving in heavy traffic. Many vehicles are subjected to this condition twice a day in commuting to major cities.
 Sustained highway driving in hot weather, such as vacation travel.
 Towing a boat or trailer, carrying heavy objects on a rooftop rack.
 Driving in dusty conditions, such as dirt or gravel roads.
 Prolonged operation at sub-zero temperatures.
 Driving on steep hills or mountains on a regular basis.

I'd leave it alone until you have 5,000 miles and do a full synthetic oil change.

Based on recent observations of the capability and level of care by the average “pro”, I’d say if you’re able-bodied, do it yourself. Be sure the oil viscosity and type is what Toyota specifies, and save your receipts for the oil and filter, in case there’s ever a warranty claim.

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So after all that, I keep coming back to the original questions:
1) Is it a worthwhile task, or is it overkill? It can't hurt, right?
2) Do it myself, or let the "pros" tackle it?

1) My new Toyota is at 1,800mi. I plan on swapping oil and sending sample to Blackstone. Overkill? Who cares if like the car and plan on keeping it. It's cheap insurance, worse case you replaced oil with 60% life left. So you a) pissed off a liberal, and b) wasted $60. Oh well.

2) I've turned enough wrenches in my life, I bought new so I don't have to, so I'm firmly in the let the dealership do it camp. Google ToyotaCare, covers first two years maintenance on my car, you probably have similar.

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Originally posted by Skins2881:
pissed off a liberal

Bonus points!

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Originally posted by Skins2881:
wasted $60. Oh well.

In Dad's words: "I've spent more on less...."

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Originally posted by Skins2881:
ToyotaCare, covers first two years maintenance on my car, you probably have similar.

I do. But I don't think it would cover this "preemptive" change.

I change it myself on most of our vehicles in less time than it would take to drive to the dealer and back. The Fumtoto valve makes it just about tool free.

On my truck no ramps are needed. Just crawl under with three empty gallon jugs from the last oil change, hook the hose to the valve, and fill each jug until the oil stops flowing. Next, I punch a hole in the bottom center of the oil filter after I put an oil pan under it and let that drain. I turn the oil filter by hand to break any vacuum. I can turn the oil filter by hand because I’m the one that installed it properly the last time. While the oil filter is draining, I pour some new oil into the new oil filter. Swap the filters, pour oil in the engine, drip off the old oil the next time I’m at WalMart buying new oil and a filter.

The other vehicles are almost the same except I put them on ramps. The Corvette is the exception to that. To drain the oil, it requires the back end to be jacked higher than the front.

To the first question, nothing wrong doing an early oil change after break-in. Every other motor (outboards, jet skis, atvs, etc.) own says to do one.

I've been a member of BITOG since their first year and this topic comes up often.

The absolute vast majority of manufactures do not have a special break-in oil.

The verdict on early changes? Do it, if you want, but there's no factual evidence that your engine will last XXX miles more with an early change v. waiting. Too many factors in play to say one way or the other.

Engines with regular changes (severe service v. regular intervals) last hundreds of thousands miles, and other major car parts crap out long before the engine.

Change it or don't. Whatever makes you feel better is the answer.

It probably doesn't matter if the oil is changed early or not. I've always changed my own oil. I know exactly what oil is in the vehicle, and it's saved me some money over the years.

There's really no point in changing the oil at 1400 miles, it probably won't hurt anything but it's not going to help anything either so just a waste of money. I'm OK following the manufacturers recommended oil change/service intervals since the engineers that designed and built the engine know better than anyone's feelings when the oil needs to be changed. With today's synthetic oils people are getting anywhere from 5000 to 10000 miles between oil changes. All new Toyota's come with free maintenance for 2 years so why waste your money and time changing the oil yourself? Your drive train is under warranty for 5 years/60000 miles so why would Toyota recommend oil change intervals that might possible cause damage to the engine that would require they repair/replace on their dime??????

Doing it yourself gives a sense of accomplishment not achievable letting it be done. If you are asking about an early break in change, you will get satisfaction from doing it. Get geared up to do it safely and you'll know its done right.

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Your drive train is under warranty for 5 years/60000 miles so why would Toyota recommend oil change intervals that might possible cause damage to the engine that would require they repair/replace on their dime??????

Because they don't care if it goes beyond 60K miles, which it probably would without any changes.

If its a new Toyota--you get 2 years of free service from Toyota. Take advantage of this--don't void the Toyota Care or Warranty.

The Toyotas dealer would not give me my "free oil change" until 10,000 miles and given past problems with sludge, cam chain tensioners, etc in engines I felt that it might be fine for a lease car or if you change cars frequently, but was too long for me. So I just let them keep their oil change.

On my Toyota Corolla and Honda Ridgeline I changed oil and filters around 2,000 miles, then 6,000, and every 6,000 thereafter which is about every 10-12 months. It's more convenient, I do it in less time than it would take me to drive to the dealer, I get to look around underneath the vehicles touching up any rust, etc, and I get to use the oil I prefer in the viscosity I prefer. I think for US vehicles Toyota's down to 0w-16 now.

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Originally posted by Flashlightboy:
I've been a member of BITOG since their first year and this topic comes up often.

Bob Is The Oil Guy?

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Originally posted by pbslinger:
Because they don't care if it goes beyond 60K miles

They may not, but I surely do. My background is in manufacturing, with a side of machining -- I know we don't always get all the chips out (see Tundra example above), even with great CNC machinery and the incredible toolmakers I've worked with over the years.

My expectation is for this vehicle to be as solid as my last -- currently 22 years old and sporting almost 330k miles.

At that point, I'll probably be limited to driving a golf cart. Or maybe I'll have a cute young chauffeur!

The Motor Oil Geek doesn't just tell his opinions. All of his videos are analysis and data driven.



I don't feel like I always get the straight dope from BITOG. The site has many different discussions with many opinions like "This is what I do, and it's always worked for me." The Motor Oil Geek, OTOH, always has the data in his videos to back up any claims he makes.

My 2018 Titan got it's first oil change at 5k . Then every 5k thereafter . I'm now at 56k and all is well .

Dan-
I had the pleasure of building a second home for a guy who was in charge of R&D at Ethyl Oil a few years ago. Ethyl Oil is (was) one of the two companies who made the additive package for the major oil companies.

When I bought my first Porsche I asked him what was the best thing to do and he sat me down and gave me a very detailed 45 minute talk about what to do.
Basically, no manufacturer uses a break in oil now with the advances in machining and oil packages. Having said that he told me to do the first oil change between 1000 and 2000 miles and then to do subsequent oil changes around 5000 miles with a good synthetic (he liked Castrol and Penzoil).
No matter how well an engine is manufactured there is always some mating of dissimilar metals and this process creates small metal particles that can score the various components in the engine.

The manufacturers in their quest to minimize maintenance costs to the consumer have stretched out OCI in some cases up to a ridiculous 10,000 miles. All they are concerned about is that the engine makes it through the warranty period.

If you plan on keeping your vehicle longer than that you really should increase your OCI and as was said above get a Fumoto valve for your drain pan and it will greatly simplify the process.