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| Member |
When I need to get serious for longer term storage I use RIG grease or one of the spray-ons. Yes, Corrosion-X is good, but others are more readily available and cheaper. Like ‘Fluid Film’ and others along the same vein. | |||
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| So let it be written, so let it be done... ![]() |
This! I have used this exact method for 20 years in very humid environments. Haven’t had any rust problems… 'veritas non verba magistri' | |||
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| Member |
I use a paste floor wax. For a long time I used Johnson’s Paste floor wax, but they have stopped making it. Butcher’s is another one. There are others available. Having read all the other suggestions and considered or used many of them, what I found is the oils don’t last, they run off the weapon, dry out, or they are greasy to handle. The paste wax has worked for me for something over 15-20 years, probably longer. My procedure: 1. Upon purchase of a new(to me) weapon it goes home, gets stripped, thoroughly cleaned - getting all dirt, debris out of the stock and all metal parts. 2. The paste wax comes in something like a large shoe polish can. Mine has a rag added and kept inside. 3. Except the bore, all metal gets wiped generously with the waxed rag. Bore gets an oil patch passed through. Gunstock gets thoroughly waxed on any exposed surfaces. Without wiping off excess wax the rifle gets assembled. 4. Once assembled the rifle gets thoroughly rubbed down with a clean rag. The wax takes only a few minutes to dry when first applied so the wipe down is much like buffing car polish off a car - everything is really pretty dry. Results? The stock looks better, is protected from weather and isn’t slippery or oily because it is a FLOOR wax. A floor wax cannot be slippery because it would make the floor dangerous to walk on. On a rifle the stock feels smooth, looks good and grip is really good. The metal is protected from rust by the wax. It lasts for a LONG time as it doesn’t run off. Casual handling doesn’t wear it off. The wax will cause light rain to bead up and run off. Alcohol will dissolve and remove the wax. I have yet to need to remove it but have little doubt that it will come off. What I do is after a few years (honest) I reapply more wax and buff most of it off again. Whether they are in the safe with a golden rod heater or out on display or frequently handled while out - I have zero rust issues. Being a collector and shooter my habit is to just pull a patch through the bore before shooting. No other prep is needed. No issues. No rust. Oil or grease internal parts as desired. | |||
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| Member |
Ordered some Break Free Collector to try. I’m sure it’ll work as well for me as it doesn’t for Rogue’s surplus firearms. Thank all of yall. I imagine Vaseline does work well also. Nine years to retirement! Just waiting! | |||
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| Member |
When I was first stationed at Camp Lejeune, NC in 2000, the unit armory was still a shitty little brick building with no air conditioning or indoor plumbing (the armorers had to use a porta-john outside). In summer, the inside of the building was as hot and humid as a fat guy’s armpits. We kept the weapons from rusting by requiring every Marine to check his rifle out a minimum of once a week and wipe it down with a light coat of CLP. | |||
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| Member |
VCI is your answer. in whatever form works best for your situation. I prefer bags. “So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.” | |||
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Member![]() |
I have/had a few collectorish items stored in my ~50% relative humidity basement for many years... MAYBE they were used once every 18-24 months. I gave a good disassembly and rub down with Break-Free CO about once a year with no problems or accumulated rust at all. (FWIW: I like the SLIP-2000 mainly for its no-smell/non-toxic properties, but that did not go away full year on my 1911 without a little surface rust) | |||
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Member![]() |
x10, but damn that stuff is invincible. You would not believe the things I have seen stored in the absolute worst conditions on earth for years and years; covered in cosmoline, wrapped in wax paper (VCI?) and sealed in a plastic bag. Absolutely amazing... Were talking serious, sensitive, $$$ gun and mortar components, inside a CONEX box sitting in Africa for years... once cleaned up, good as new. | |||
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| semi-reformed sailor |
Jumping back in, when I went to bootcamp in 88 I cleaned all my guns and used spray grease that dad had in the basement to preserve them for long term. I actually left my 410 there until a few years ago. Dad called & said he was gonna get this possum that was bothering the house, but he only had his 44 magnum and my old 410 to use. I told him I had sprayed grease all in the works & bore and to clean it completely out with mineral spirits or diesel. So it sat for 30+ years inside in a gun cabinet just coated in grease and only running the ac during the summer in NC. And the gun is the same as when he bought it for me in 1984. “You may beat me, but you will never win.” sigmonkey-2020 “ in my opinion, anything that we can do to trigger a potential aneurysm in a leftist is a good thing and worth doing” nhtagmember 2025 | |||
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