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Peace through
superior firepower
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Hang on.

Let's get a couple of things straightened out before we proceed.

Nested quotes- what does this mean?
 
Posts: 109647 | Registered: January 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Sorry Para. Won’t happen again. I have pruned my posts.
 
Posts: 5202 | Location: Manteca, CA | Registered: May 30, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Peace through
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Thank you, but I really would like for someone to answer my question.

Then we'll move on to part B.
 
Posts: 109647 | Registered: January 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Nested quotes -

A continuation of a conversation usually between two posters that keeps the entire conversation through subsequent posts. This now creates a wall of BS, that is tedious to follow, takes up too much room in the thread as well as the forum, and not only pisses off just the admin.

I regret taking part in such behavior, and apologize.
 
Posts: 5202 | Location: Manteca, CA | Registered: May 30, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Peace through
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Very good, thank you. There's no reason to take up all that real estate on the page, and furthermore, if you actually try to determine who is saying what in a nested quote exchange, you'll find that's very difficult to do so.

Mty suggestion is that for anyone who doesn't know how to edit quotes, just speak your piece without quoting the other member at all.

Now, onto other matters.

jimmy, we've talked about this before. We've talked about how you should ease off when you see that you're getting into a testy exchange. If you're going to participate in threads like this, I'll require you to ease off when the bickering starts. You know the result when you keep hammering away on a topic.

Carry on, guys


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"I am your retribution." - Donald Trump, speech at CPAC, March 4, 2023
 
Posts: 109647 | Registered: January 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by sigcrazy7:
Jimmy, I might be able to answer the question. You have pointed out that synthetic oils can clean pathways at leaking seals and gaskets, causing leaks to worsen, as you quoted from the Amzoil article.

However, from the OP:

quote:
I drive a 2007 Jeep commander, 3.7L V-6, AWD. I'm just a few K short of 200K miles. I probably lose about a quart every 3 weeks. No oil leaks at all. Undercarriage is clean and dry. No "Check engine" light. No blue smoke. Passed my last DEQ last year and it was losing oil then as well.


If oil consumption is caused by a stuck ring, synthetics may clean it and allow it to seat. If the engine continues to burn oil, synthetic oil will burn cleaner, having fewer impurities, with less chance of damaging other components like the catalyst. Synthetic oils will also leave far less ash in the combustion chamber. Also, as the oil level gets lower and the oil cycles more frequently, the synthetic oil will withstand the increased oil temperatures better. These are some of the benefits of using synthetic oil in a high mileage engine that isn’t leaky.

If I were the OP, I might consider lengthening my oil change intervals. If you are adding that much oil, your additive package is constantly being refreshed. You might consider using a high quality filter like a Mobil 1 and running the oil a little longer. Every 3000 miles seems excessive on synthetic oil where you’ve already added four quarts by the time you get to 3000. This won’t help with the consumption, but it will save you some unnecessary maintenance and expense.



You are correct in the fact that Synthetic oil doesn't break down with higher oil temperatures as easily and that it does burn cleaner. The odd thing is the OP didn't mention seeing any visible smoke in his post either.

I would change the pcv valve. But, I just don't think the much added expense of switching to synthetic given the OP's consumption is going to fix anything. I think if you're going to go to the add something route. A dose of Yamaha ring free (made by chevron) in the fuel and a oil additive product like mentioned previously or Lucas would have more of a chance of fixing something than just switching to synthetic. if there was any remote chance of a pour in product fixing it. But quite honestly, I've never seen rings "stick" on a vehicle that is driven daily, nor have I seen any of these pour in additive products or switching to synthetic fix something like this except once. And, at 200k miles I'd say 99% of the time, it's just honest engine wear that short of a rebuild or head job, it is what it is. Chrysler motors aren't known for going a million miles like some other brands.

I stated that switching to synthetic could cause leaks, not that it will, but wasn't recommending it purely on a cost versus benefit basis, considering how much oil (at double the cost) he'd be pouring in given the high oil consumption.

Personally I'd rather try pouring lucas oil additive in the crankcase in this situation, if I was going to do anything. Or just accept the fact that the motor is worn out and just buy oil on sale and dump a quart in every 3rd fill up.
 
Posts: 21421 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by parabellum:
Very good, thank you. There's no reason to take up all that real estate on the page, and furthermore, if you actually try to determine who is saying what in a nested quote exchange, you'll find that's very difficult to do so.

Mty suggestion is that for anyone who doesn't know how to edit quotes, just speak your piece without quoting the other member at all.

Now, onto other matters.

jimmy, we've talked about this before. We've talked about how you should ease off when you see that you're getting into a testy exchange. If you're going to participate in threads like this, I'll require you to ease off when the bickering starts. You know the result when you keep hammering away on a topic.

Carry on, guys


OK, Understood.
 
Posts: 21421 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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A little light anecdote ref extended periods between oil changes.
In the early '60s, when I was a young service engineer, I had a series of old English cars. A notable one was a c.1955 ROVER 75. It burned oil, at least a pint every tank of gas. However, I had an inexhaustible supply of Shell Rotella T and used that for two years. Figured I was changing the oil every 2000 miles anyway so the oil never did get changed (in the conventional way) while I owned the car.


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Posts: 939 | Location: SE-PA | Registered: August 09, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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It might be anecdotal, but it should be the OP's strategy. This vehicle is in end of life. Maintain it as cheaply as possible and get the max you can. Fill it with the cheapest possible oil of the right viscosity and SAE grade. Increase the oil change interval substantially, there is no reason to change it at 3k when most of it is new anyway.


“So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.”
 
Posts: 11219 | Registered: October 14, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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So, taking this one step further, if the OP changes oil at 3000 miles and has added 4 quarts since the last oil change, he is burning 1 quart every 750 miles. Assuming a 5 quart sump, the OP is actually changing oil every 3750 miles. STOP CHANGING OIL.


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Posts: 939 | Location: SE-PA | Registered: August 09, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You will not get rid of the contamination from blow-by if you stop changing oil. This is a sure fire way to gunk up the inside of your engine.
 
Posts: 5202 | Location: Manteca, CA | Registered: May 30, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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He shouldn't stop changing it, he should stop changing it at 3K.


“So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.”
 
Posts: 11219 | Registered: October 14, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The OP says the oil is not leaking so the oil is being burned, and the contaminants are being burned along with the oil. I remember straight mineral oil in cars, THAT was a build up in contaminants, 1/8" to 3/16" build up in the rocker cover and the sump. Modern oil additives hold the contaminant in suspension and are filtered out, burned or just circulate. In the OPs case changing oil at 3000 miles, the remaining oil is 25% new, 25% 1000 miles old, 25% 2000 miles old and 25% 3000 miles old, roughly. Therefore the average age of the oil when it is changed is ~1500 miles. Now, if the OP stops changing the the oil completely, then the oil is average age 2500 miles just before adding the quart and still 1500 miles after he adds the fresh quart. So OK change the oil filter once a year...


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Posts: 939 | Location: SE-PA | Registered: August 09, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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https://www.quora.com/Why-shou...-just-topping-it-off

Just changing the oil filter will not remove the contaminants alone.
 
Posts: 5202 | Location: Manteca, CA | Registered: May 30, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
https://www.quora.com/Why-shou...-just-topping-it-off


I agree completely with a modern engine that essentially uses no oil (actually some oil is burned and is replaced by contaminants). But for an engine of 200k, using a quart every 500 to 750 miles (depending how you calculate it), I would not change the oil at all. P.S. OP, sell the car to me, wink wink. By the way, the top photo does not look real. If I didn't know better, the top photo was when the author pulled the head, and the bottom photo was after it was cleaned up ready to rebuild...


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Posts: 939 | Location: SE-PA | Registered: August 09, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I'm done trying to convince you that you are giving bad advice.
 
Posts: 5202 | Location: Manteca, CA | Registered: May 30, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I truly appreciate your comment. I am only speaking from experience which is not necessarily good advise...


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Posts: 939 | Location: SE-PA | Registered: August 09, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Shifferbrains is right. Just topping off and never changing the oil is a bad idea. Search the bobistheoilguy site for more information.


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Posts: 4038 | Location: Northeast Georgia | Registered: November 18, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Yeah, that M14 video guy...
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Thanks for the info guys! Sorry was away. Been busy the last couple of days bedding rifles.

I’ll change the PCV and go 5000 miles between oil/oil filter change. I just need to limp this along until I can afford a new truck. The only thing on the Jeep that doesn’t work reliably is the backup sensors and my drivers side window.

If it were a Grand Cherokee, or a Rubicon, I’d look into a rebuilt engine and keep it.

Over the past few years, I’ve only had to change the alternator, water pump, oil pan gasket and bypass the transmission oil cooler and add an external one. Also added new serpentine belt and pulley.

Tony.


Owner, TonyBen, LLC, Type-07 FFL
www.tonybenm14.com (Site under construction).
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Posts: 5571 | Location: Auburndale, FL | Registered: February 13, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
PopeDaddy
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How’s it going since you changed the PCV?


0:01
 
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