I'd try changing the pcv valve. But that kind of oil usage is pretty normal on a motor with 200k. I would stick to the same oil you're using OR high mileage oil with the same weight. DO NOT switch to synthetic if you haven't been running it.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
DO NOT switch to synthetic if you haven't been running it.

not this shit again..

^^^ Hahaha.

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
DO NOT switch to synthetic if you haven't been running it.

not this shit again..

Well it’s good advice. An engine with that much consumption doesn’t need synthetic and it would be a waste to throw that much synthetic oil in an oil burner.

Walmart has the cheapest oil prices and I’d easily run 10W40 high mileage oil in this engine to slow down consumption.

Yes, SAE30 and SAE40 oils are just fine in the summer for engines with high consumption that doesn’t have variable valve timing issues with thicker oil.

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
DO NOT switch to synthetic if you haven't been running it.

not this shit again..

Sure, throw Synthetic in an ancient engine with 200k miles that is burning a quart of oil every 750 miles. That would be great for it.

If you're so knowledgable. Tell me the one benefit everyone in the car business knows that Synthetic oil does for an engine that is burning a lot of oil and has visible blue smoke.

quote:

Originally posted by PowerSurge:

quote:

Originally posted by Broadside:
Sounds like worn piston rings. You probably don't want to replace the piston rings. You might want to try straight 40 weight motor oil if you can find it.

Bad idea. SAE 40 doesn’t have the additive package for car/truck engines. It’s suited for lawn equipment, etc.

Incorrect. I bought SAE40 oil this year for my generator (south Florida, you won’t find a better generator oil than SAE40) and it’s API rating is SN Plus so it’s the latest spec API certified oil and has the same API specs as all other modern car oils. The SAE30 oil also is rated API SN Plus, so it is 100% compatible with late model engines in the summer that can use a 30 weight oil.

There was a guy on the oil forum that ran SAE30 oil in the summer in his late model car and the oil analysis showed the lowest wear numbers that engine has ever seen.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

Sure, throw Synthetic in an ancient engine with 200k miles that is burning a quart of oil every 750 miles. That would be great for it.

If you're so knowledgable. Tell me the one benefit everyone in the car business knows that Synthetic oil does for an engine that is burning a lot of oil and has visible blue smoke.

Doesn’t work like that SAGE. You made the assertion, you prove it.


Oh hey there SAGE, here is some light reading from some in the engine oil business. Enjoy.

https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us...y-synthetic-oil.html

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Shifferbrains,

quote:

Originally posted by bubbatime:

quote:

Originally posted by PowerSurge:
Bad idea. SAE 40 doesn’t have the additive package for car/truck engines. It’s suited for lawn equipment, etc.

Incorrect. I bought SAE40 oil this year for my generator (south Florida, you won’t find a better generator oil than SAE40) and it’s API rating is SN Plus so it’s the latest spec API certified oil and has the same API specs as all other modern car oils. The SAE30 oil also is rated API SN Plus, so it is 100% compatible with late model engines in the summer that can use a 30 weight oil.
There was a guy on the oil forum that ran SAE30 oil in the summer in his late model car and the oil analysis showed the lowest wear numbers that engine has ever seen.

I wasn’t aware they had SN+ rated SAE oils now. He could run that oil in the summer, but being a single grade oil when it starts to cool off, that stuff will be like molasses.

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
DO NOT switch to synthetic if you haven't been running it.

not this shit again..

Sure, throw Synthetic in an ancient engine with 200k miles that is burning a quart of oil every 750 miles. That would be great for it.

If you're so knowledgable. Tell me the one benefit everyone in the car business knows that Synthetic oil does for an engine that is burning a lot of oil and has visible blue smoke.

Doesn’t work like that SAGE. You made the assertion, you prove it.

Clearly you do not know the answer.

There would be clearly no benefit for the OP to start using synthetic oil in HIS motor unless you enjoy throwing gasoline on a fire. It isn't going to stop the engine from drinking oil. Could cause it to lose more oil.

When engine burns synthetic oil, there is no visible smoke out of the exhaust. Synthetic oil burns clear. The old used car dealers trick is drain crankcase, pour kerosene in the crank case, run engine 30 seconds, drain it overnight, change filter and fill with synthetic oil. An engine could be burning a quart every 300 miles and you won't see it.

Many many years ago I worked as a mechanic, then owned a used car dealership, and built race motors and fielded and ran a race car in Fun Ford weekend street renegade class.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

Clearly you do not know the answer.

There would be clearly no benefit for the OP to start using synthetic oil in HIS motor unless you enjoy throwing gasoline on a fire. It isn't going to stop the engine from drinking oil. Could cause it to lose more oil.

When engine burns synthetic oil, there is no visible smoke out of the exhaust. Synthetic oil burns clear. The old used car dealers trick is drain crankcase, pour kerosene in the crank case, run engine 30 seconds, drain it overnight, change filter and fill with synthetic oil. An engine could be burning a quart every 300 miles and you won't see it.

Many many years ago I worked as a mechanic, then owned a used car dealership, and built race motors and fielded and ran a race car in Fun Ford weekend street renegade class.

https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us...y-synthetic-oil.html

You may want to pay close attention to the Myth section. I do believe that these people know a whole hell of a lot more than you do.

Oh yeah, how did you read so much into my original statement? So pathetic.

Since I usually skim what dissertations you usually concoct, I just read how used car dealers scam customers. Then you say you were a used car dealer. Some of the things that make you go, hmmm.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Shifferbrains,

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
DO NOT switch to synthetic if you haven't been running it.

not this shit again..

Sure, throw Synthetic in an ancient engine with 200k miles that is burning a quart of oil every 750 miles. That would be great for it.

If you're so knowledgable. Tell me the one benefit everyone in the car business knows that Synthetic oil does for an engine that is burning a lot of oil and has visible blue smoke.

Doesn’t work like that SAGE. You made the assertion, you prove it.

Clearly you do not know the answer.

There would be clearly no benefit for the OP to start using synthetic oil in HIS motor unless you enjoy throwing gasoline on a fire. It isn't going to stop the engine from drinking oil. Could cause it to lose more oil.

When engine burns synthetic oil, there is no visible smoke out of the exhaust. Synthetic oil burns clear. The old used car dealers trick is drain crankcase, pour kerosene in the crank case, run engine 30 seconds, drain it overnight, change filter and fill with synthetic oil. An engine could be burning a quart every 300 miles and you won't see it.

Many many years ago I worked as a mechanic, then owned a used car dealership, and built race motors and fielded and ran a race car in Fun Ford weekend street renegade class.

https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us...y-synthetic-oil.html

You may want to pay close attention to the Myth section. I do believe that these people know a whole hell of a lot more than you do.

Oh yeah, how did you read so much into my original statement? So pathetic.

So are you trying to say that if the OP switches to synthetic oil, his 200,000 mile engine will fix itself and stop burning a quart of oil (at double the price) every 750 miles or less?????? That his bad valve seals causing the oil leak and loss of oil will fix themselves and the excessive oil consumption will cease? Please tell me how switching to Synthetic oil in the OP's worn out engine would benefit him or the engine in any way, shape, or form? Or what exactly are you trying to say exactly about switching to synthetic oil in the OP's situation?

The only thing that will stop the OP's excessive oil consumption (which is really in the normal range for a jeep engine with that many miles) is pulling the cylinder head(s) and having a head job done on them. There are many situations where running synthetic oil will benefit engine life, this is NOT one of them.

Here's from the experts at Amsoil, which is a far superior synthetic than Pennzoil could ever dream of producing.

"Can a change to synthetic engine oil cause gasket or seal leaks? First, let’s summarize. The short answer is no: that is a myth. However, gaskets and oil-seals are two entirely different things. Gasket leaks are never caused by engine oil. But under certain circumstances synthetic oil can more clearly reveal an existing oil-seal leak, sometimes called a “false seal”. "

I once had a valve-cover gasket that leaked oil, and after I changed the engine over to AMSOIL it leaked even more. When I removed the valve cover, I discovered that the valve cover had been removed before and that the flat machined sealing surface of the engine had been gouged in that spot: the gouge was a leak-path which had nothing to do with the type of engine oil, but was cleaned out by the synthetic so that it could leak more. "

"Most oil-seals are essentially round pliable rings (made of an elastomer material) which seal around a shaft hole, keeping the oil inside the engine while allowing the shaft to move. For example, valves slide back and forth inside valve seals, and crankshafts rotate inside the seals. A “main seal”, “front main seal”, or “rear main seal” usually refer to seals around the main engine crankshaft which transfers all the rotational power, created by the pistons, out of the engine and into the transmission and wheels.

When an engine runs with petroleum oil, the sludge and varnish deposits that occur (from using petroleum oil in the hot engine) will accumulate around your pistons, rings, seals, valvetrain, and in oil passages. These deposits on a seal will block the seal material’s access to the engine oil, causing the seal to very slowly shrink and harden from engine heat. Ironically the same deposits can eventually help to seal older engine seals from the oil leaks which the deposits have caused. This type of “sealing” from petroleum oil deposits is a sign of invisibly growing problems such as piston ring sticking, sludge deposits in valve covers, oil passages and oil pans which can lead to decreased oil pump capacity output and restriction of critical oil galley passageways over an extended period of time, plus many other issues."

http://ultimatesyntheticoil.co...ing-to-synthetic-oil

In your dozens of careers, was mind reading one of them? If it was, I can see why you quit, wasn’t profitable at all.

Did I say any of that in my statements above?

You are so completely pathetic. Like talking to a brick wall.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Shifferbrains,

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
DO NOT switch to synthetic if you haven't been running it.

not this shit again..

Sure, throw Synthetic in an ancient engine with 200k miles that is burning a quart of oil every 750 miles. That would be great for it.

If you're so knowledgable. Tell me the one benefit everyone in the car business knows that Synthetic oil does for an engine that is burning a lot of oil and has visible blue smoke.

Doesn’t work like that SAGE. You made the assertion, you prove it.

Clearly you do not know the answer.

There would be clearly no benefit for the OP to start using synthetic oil in HIS motor unless you enjoy throwing gasoline on a fire. It isn't going to stop the engine from drinking oil. Could cause it to lose more oil.

When engine burns synthetic oil, there is no visible smoke out of the exhaust. Synthetic oil burns clear. The old used car dealers trick is drain crankcase, pour kerosene in the crank case, run engine 30 seconds, drain it overnight, change filter and fill with synthetic oil. An engine could be burning a quart every 300 miles and you won't see it.

Many many years ago I worked as a mechanic, then owned a used car dealership, and built race motors and fielded and ran a race car in Fun Ford weekend street renegade class.

https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us...y-synthetic-oil.html

You may want to pay close attention to the Myth section. I do believe that these people know a whole hell of a lot more than you do.

Oh yeah, how did you read so much into my original statement? So pathetic.

So are you trying to say that if the OP switches to synthetic oil, his 200,000 mile engine will fix itself and stop burning a quart of oil (at double the price) every 750 miles or less?????? That his bad valve seals causing the oil leak and loss of oil will fix themselves and the excessive oil consumption will cease? Please tell me how switching to Synthetic oil in the OP's worn out engine would benefit him or the engine in any way, shape, or form? Or what exactly are you trying to say exactly about switching to synthetic oil in the OP's situation?

In your dozens of careers, was mind reading one of them? If it was, I can see why you quit, wasn’t profitable at all.

Did I say any of that in my statements above?

You are so completely pathetic. Like talking to a brick wall.

You didn't say anything in your statements above. You are "smoke Screening". Creating an argument simply to create an argument without posting anything factual to re-inforce your argument or the point you are trying to make and resorting to personal attacks on said person. You are just attacking someone for the sake of doing so and talking in circles. I would suggest that you seek the advice of a mental health consoler on how to deal with this issue and to help you get your message across.

What exactly ARE you trying to say?

Let me phrase my 1 question as simply as possible for you, so that you can understand it.
question: NAME 1 BENEFIT THE OP WILL HAVE FOR SWITCHING TO SYNTHETIC OIL???????? (considering his 200k mile engine is burning 1 quart of oil every 750 miles)

I've had 2 career paths in my entire life. Grew up working in the automotive industry, went down that path for a while, got burned out on it, then around 1999 got into the marine industry and went down that path and still on it and enjoy it.

Have a nice night, sorry if you've planned otherwise!

counseling? Ha, your advice you should take.


Hey OP, sorry that this devolved. There is some good advice, especially the PCV system. The additives that egregore listed wouldn’t hurt either.

I will give my experience, as a small engine mechanic for a number of years.

Synthetic oil- I agree with Jimmy, you do not want to put synthetic oil in an old engine , with lots of hours, that has used conventional oil it’s entire life. Sure the “experts” at Pennzoil will tell you it’s fine, but in my experience, I’ve seen dozens of cases of “it’s not fine”.

Customers bring me a 1970 Widget, tell me to tune it up, oh, and replace the oil with the latest high tech synthetic 10W30 oil please. Uh, no. That’s a bad idea. I tell them it’s a bad idea, they insist, and almost always, I’m right, they were wrong. For whatever reason, old widgets with synthetic oil will smoke out the exhaust non stop, like a mosquito fogger. The engine will run fine, but the smoke will never go away and will smoke like crazy. I’ve seen this dozens of times. Replace the oil and put a good conventional 10W30 or SAE30 back in, and the smoking goes away and it’s back to normal.

Just one guys observation. I always recommend against changing a high mileage , high hour, or old machine, over to synthetic. You can try it if you want I suppose... if it works great.

Every single fucking thread.

Go ask at BobIsTheOilGuy and do what they say.

-Rob

Guys, someone please tell me what is meant by "nested quotes". Anyone know? I think most of you do. Let's start with that, then we'll move on from there.

Anyone?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jimmy123x:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by jimmy123x:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by jimmy123x:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by jimmy123x:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by jimmy123x:

Jimmy, I might be able to answer the question. You have pointed out that synthetic oils can clean pathways at leaking seals and gaskets, causing leaks to worsen, as you quoted from the Amzoil article.

However, from the OP:

quote:

I drive a 2007 Jeep commander, 3.7L V-6, AWD. I'm just a few K short of 200K miles. I probably lose about a quart every 3 weeks. No oil leaks at all. Undercarriage is clean and dry. No "Check engine" light. No blue smoke. Passed my last DEQ last year and it was losing oil then as well.

If oil consumption is caused by a stuck ring, synthetics may clean it and allow it to seat. If the engine continues to burn oil, synthetic oil will burn cleaner, having fewer impurities, with less chance of damaging other components like the catalyst. Synthetic oils will also leave far less ash in the combustion chamber. Also, as the oil level gets lower and the oil cycles more frequently, the synthetic oil will withstand the increased oil temperatures better. These are some of the benefits of using synthetic oil in a high mileage engine that isn’t leaky.

If I were the OP, I might consider lengthening my oil change intervals. If you are adding that much oil, your additive package is constantly being refreshed. You might consider using a high quality filter like a Mobil 1 and running the oil a little longer. Every 3000 miles seems excessive on synthetic oil where you’ve already added four quarts by the time you get to 3000. This won’t help with the consumption, but it will save you some unnecessary maintenance and expense.