There was a young lady here at 10 this morning to replace the spring.

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Originally posted by maxwayne:
One of my doors busted a spring. My wife heard the bang in the house. I was walking the dog in the park. I hope they can get to us soon as a new car is sitting in the drive.

quote:

Originally posted by darthfuster:
Same thing happened to our garage door. Happened multiple times before I realized it was opening on its own. Something on the circuit board had aged or worn so I replaced the opener.

We have a 100' x 50' shop at our house and the doors started getting janky like this.

The tech said the wall buttons placed to close together over time will start sending false signals. he relocated them and the problem ceased.

Yep. I have two 22-year-old Lift Masters that I added the MyQ control panels to. The MyQ panels link wirelessly to a gateway that is plugged into my router.

The single-width 3rd slip door opened the other night, and I found the programming light blinking on the MyQ panel. The door would not close, so I pulled the release cord and closed it manually. Then in the middle of the night the opener started randomly opening and closing, but only partially, so I unplugged it.

The MyQ panel is probably bad. I had one go bad already (known issue) and it was replaced for free by Lift Master. But when things fail they should fail is a SECURE state. Opening the door upon failure is the opposite of what should happen. Had this happened while I was away on business for a couple weeks (and with no way to close it) things might not have gone so well - either theft of things in the garage or frozen pipes (water heater and softener are in the garage).

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Originally posted by RogueJSK:

Disconnect the opener by pulling the big red handle. Then manually lift the door until fully open and settled in place horizontally, drive your new car inside, and manually close it. (This works on most, but there are some garage doors out there that are too heavy to lift manually.)

Keep in mind that a slim jim style metal bar can be inserted at the top of a garage door and used to disconnect the opener, thus allowing anyone access. You’re trading off being able to get your car inside against someone being able to break in (a wire keeping the disconnect from working solves the latter).

Shitter's Full

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Originally posted by radioman:
what is the make / model of the opener, how old is it, and does it use rolling codes?

It's a Genie 7055 that's only a couple years old. Yes, it uses rolling codes. I have my wife's built-in Honda opener programmed to open it, and the other day that didn't work. After opening via the wireless keypad the built-in Honda works again. I'm thinking it's time to reset everything and start over with the programmed openers.

Note that the opener doesn't have any of the smart home add-on options. It does have a lead acid backup battery, which makes it much more difficult to "unplug".

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Originally posted by goingbroke:
The tech said the wall buttons placed to close together over time will start sending false signals. he relocated them and the problem ceased.

I'll give this a shot too as they're stacked vertically with maybe an inch gap. Sad that this is a potential problem because I'm guessing most everybody with multiple garage doors has the wired buttons right next to each other. Any idea how much gap is needed?