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My old boss owns SVS these days. $300 is not much of a budget. Terrific bass can be had more affordably than when I was in the business 20+ years ago. I used to be a fan of the DefTech ProSub series and they started at $299 back then. I think the Polk subs at your price range are hard to beat. I put a Hsu Research 15" in my parents' theater. I put four 18" infinite baffle drivers in mine (about $1100 total + $300ish for the Crown amp). I run a JL Audio Fathom F110 for our main system due to size and placement. I even did a pair of 10" subs on a crown amp for my deck. My old ProSub80 sub is garage audio these days. I'd strongly suggest stretching your budget to $5-600 if you want real movie quality bass. | |||
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Member |
Also look at Emotiva. They've got an 8" at $299. That 15" on clearance for $799 is a terrific deal. https://emotiva.com/collections/subwoofers | |||
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Caribou gorn |
See if you can find a Definitive Technologies sub for that. Maybe not, but they are fantastic. I'm gonna vote for the funniest frog with the loudest croak on the highest log. | |||
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thin skin can't win |
I may not have been clear, but the point of my earlier post was that a 24 x 24 room that isn’t sealed off is effectively much larger than that as it relates to bass frequencies trying to be contained. Practical applications may not allow for correction to that, but it will be a factor in the performance of any subwoofer. You only have integrity once. - imprezaguy02 | |||
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Nullus Anxietas |
Our family room is far from ideal, acoustically, too. As I noted: It's 13' x 22', but it has a large opening between it and the kitchen, an open window between it and the kitchen, a doorwall on the wall opposite, with a rather large window next to that. Plus the wall opposite the entertainment system is largely z-brick, with a large wood stove on a raised brick platform in front of it, and doorways, one of which is always open, to either side of that. Lastly: There's window on the wall right behind the entertainment system. Still: The Paradigm PS-1000 sub easily fills the room with more than enough sub-audible bass. Note: I did use an SPL meter and a pink noise generator to make sure everything was as flat as possible. (IIRC, there's a slight bump in the mid low range somewhere.) "America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system,,,, but too early to shoot the bastards." -- Claire Wolfe "If we let things terrify us, life will not be worth living." -- Seneca the Younger, Roman Stoic philosopher | |||
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Member |
Have you checked that your sub is in-phase with your other woofers? | |||
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Member |
No idea how to check if the sub is in-phase. I tried to look up information and it seems a little complicated. I moved the sub forward away from the wall a little and the sound seems a little different. I'll keep experimenting and testing. "Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy "A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book | |||
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Member |
There's no such thing as "in-phase" or "out of phase" on subs. Phase is not absolute, that's why many nicer subs have a variable phase knob....0-180 degrees vs. in/out. Some have a phase knob and also a polarity switch (reversing +/- to check null zones). A sub in the rear corner facing the screen is out of phase...turn it sideways it's 90 degrees off, etc. That's all before things like standing waves, null zones, etc. There's no right or wrong. Best way is to experiment with placement and smooth response in the room. Bass wavelengths are 20+ feet long so it's possible to be sitting in the prime spot and have zero bass and move three feet to either side and it being overpowering. A useful tool is an SPL meter so you can measure bass volume at different positions and help sort out room boundary issues. Radio Shack used to sell one for $30 but no idea these days if that's still a thing. The reason two subs are ideal is the ability to place them apart and smooth out room response so that no matter where you sit, levels are smooth. In my quad 18" setup, if I had it to do over again...I would have not done a line array but split them into pairs on either side of the screen for this reason. Bass at the listening position is excellent but it's earth-shaking upstairs due to how much air they can move. | |||
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Nullus Anxietas |
If it's connected via a sub out connection it's automatically correct. Beyond that: Make sure the rest of your speakers are wired correctly: Red -> red, black -> black. Beyond that: Much of what PGT wrote, above, is correct. "America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system,,,, but too early to shoot the bastards." -- Claire Wolfe "If we let things terrify us, life will not be worth living." -- Seneca the Younger, Roman Stoic philosopher | |||
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Member |
ok. so i should be in phase i guess. as i continue to pursue this, i shouldn’t be looking for a replacement but actually a second sub? do i need a matching pair? or can i just buy one to supplement the existing? "Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy "A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book | |||
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quarter MOA visionary |
^^^ If you address this then you choice of subwoofer should fall into place. By that either adding more subwoofers or repositioning any existing one should help immensely. | |||
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Member |
The poorer your room is acoustically the better sub you will need. I had a mid level SVS sub at our last house and it would make a movie come alive. You could feel some of the hits it moved so much air. We then build an atrium ranch and that previously incredible sub was now lackluster. I think you will be mostly disappointed in a $300 dollar sub if the room is difficult. I think you would be very happy in the $500 range. My replacement is also SVS so I’m a big fan of the brand. | |||
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Member |
$500 used? or new? I bought the 50.6 for $300. was hoping $300 or less used would be enough. but will look at up to $500 used if it makes a material difference. there are a lot of models. can you give me a svs and rel model recommendation for a used sub in the $300-500 range (used price, not msrp)? what model should i look for? "Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy "A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book | |||
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Member |
I sold an SB-1000 for $400 last year that worked great in a 14” x 16” room. That or a PB-1000 if found used should work good for you. Make sure no matter what you get that it’s a powered sub. Most are but not all of them have a built in amp so that would be an additional cost if not built into the sub. | |||
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Member |
thanks. gives me an idea of what to look for in my target price range. "Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy "A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book | |||
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Member |
konata88, whenever you do settle on a good sub and get it into your system, if you'd like I can ship my SPL meter to you for setting up your speakers to your listening sweet spot. It worked wonders for my system in an otherwise less than perfect acoustical room. I'm including a random youtube video that tells you basically how to set all your speakers up. In some receivers/amps they have white noise generators that you can use in auto or manual for tweaking each speaker up to your listening sweet spot. There are many in-depth videos on this subject, this is just one to give you an idea how relatively simple this is done. Just let me know after this pandemic stuff calms down and I'd be happy to loan it to you. Also this guy also has this useful video on set up and optimization of a subwoofer that may be worth a look-see. Sound is quite subjective, what settings I may calibrate for may be much different from your listening preferences. Regards, Will G. | |||
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Member |
Thanks just1tym! Great offer! And thanks for the videos. I was thinking about getting an SPL because my components come and go over time. I buy used so things may die quicker; can't afford the components I get when new. Yours looks like a pricey model. I'd like to get something similar but at a much more affordable and amateur price. Seems like something interesting to learn and will also help me make more effective use of dollars spent. "Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy "A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book | |||
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Member |
Anyone ever build one? I've eye balled some of these on and off. Dayton Audio Sub Kits I really like the MTM Overnight Sensations I built. Train how you intend to Fight Remember - Training is not sparring. Sparring is not fighting. Fighting is not combat. | |||
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Member |
Hi konata88. I don't recall that my meter was that expensive, I'm thinking around $70 or $80. In any case, it's yours to use at your convenience if you wish, just let me know. I'll check in on this thread later if you post any results of your subwoofer hunt. Regards, Will G. | |||
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Ducatista |
The Dayton kits aren't bad at all. I have built four or five for friends, and I think you will be satisfied. I used their plate amps installed on the back. For those that stayed after my SigForum shoot, they know I have four of these. https://www.paradigm.com/en/sealed/studio-sub-15 ___________________ "He who is without oil, shall throw the first rod" Compressions 9.5:1 | |||
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