SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  The Lounge    Construction adhesive question, applying cedar closet boards
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Construction adhesive question, applying cedar closet boards Login/Join 
Vi Veri Veniversum Vivus Vici
Picture of ChuckFinley
posted
I'll be constructing a below-grade cedar closet with 2 exterior walls involved over stuccoed cinderblock.

Should I mount a plywood sheathing backing to the cinder block first? (Not planning to frame and insulate first)

Is general construction adhesive the best choice? Or is there a reason to use paneling adhesive?




_________________________
NRA Endowment Member
_________________________
"Of all tyrannies, a tyranny exercised for the good of its victims may be the most oppressive. It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end, for they do so with the approval of their own conscience." -- C.S. Lewis
 
Posts: 5715 | Location: District 12 | Registered: June 16, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Three Generations
of Service
Picture of PHPaul
posted Hide Post
Unless the stucco is exceptionally smooth, I would sheath it first to give a consistent backer.

Pretty much any construction adhesive like Liquid Nails should be fine.

Edit to add: Be REAL sure you have moisture under control before doing anything else. Don't know where you are but here "below grade" and "concrete block" equals leaks.




Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent.
 
Posts: 15677 | Location: Downeast Maine | Registered: March 10, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Vi Veri Veniversum Vivus Vici
Picture of ChuckFinley
posted Hide Post
Thanks! Those were my exact thoughts as well. I appreciate the confirmation.




_________________________
NRA Endowment Member
_________________________
"Of all tyrannies, a tyranny exercised for the good of its victims may be the most oppressive. It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end, for they do so with the approval of their own conscience." -- C.S. Lewis
 
Posts: 5715 | Location: District 12 | Registered: June 16, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
As Extraordinary
as Everyone Else
Picture of smlsig
posted Hide Post
Yep need some more information in order to make a proper recommendation.

What state do you live in?
Are the cinder blocks hollow? Or are they filled with foam insulation?
Are the painted/sealed on the outside? What about the interior side of the block?

I would not install anything against a cinder block wall below grade without some moisture mitigation solution first and that solution would depend on the answers to the above questions.


------------------
Eddie

Our Founding Fathers were men who understood that the right thing is not necessarily the written thing. -kkina
 
Posts: 6584 | Location: In transit | Registered: February 19, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
I wouldn’t put untreated wood in direct contact with concrete regardless how well the outside is sealed. The different thermal masses is very likely to produce condensation. I would install 1 x 2 pressure treated furring strips at a minimum.
 
Posts: 1017 | Location: Tampa | Registered: July 27, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Vi Veri Veniversum Vivus Vici
Picture of ChuckFinley
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by DaveL:
I wouldn’t put untreated wood in direct contact with concrete regardless how well the outside is sealed. The different thermal masses is very likely to produce condensation. I would install 1 x 2 pressure treated furring strips at a minimum.


I'd been considering that, and will do as suggested. It'll work well to leave some space above and below open for air flow.

Almost certainly hollow block, sealed on outside, stucco on inside.




_________________________
NRA Endowment Member
_________________________
"Of all tyrannies, a tyranny exercised for the good of its victims may be the most oppressive. It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end, for they do so with the approval of their own conscience." -- C.S. Lewis
 
Posts: 5715 | Location: District 12 | Registered: June 16, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Void Where Prohibited
Picture of WaterburyBob
posted Hide Post
I thought I had heard not to use pressure treated wood indoors due to health risks from the chemicals used?
Is that false?



"If Gun Control worked, Chicago would look like Mayberry, not Thunderdome" - Cam Edwards
 
Posts: 16759 | Location: Under the Boot of Tyranny in Connectistan | Registered: February 02, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of 98XJRC
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by WaterburyBob:
I thought I had heard not to use pressure treated wood indoors due to health risks from the chemicals used?
Is that false?


The only issue is if the house were to burn. That’s also why they don’t recommend burning pressure treated material. All of your sill plates in your home if built on a slab and the board that sits atop your foundation wall if using a basement or crawl space (mind went blank and can’t recall the name of the board) are pressure treated. Essentially any wood that will remain in contact or does not have a barrier between will be pressure treated.

As to the original post without knowing anything else about your setup I would recommend lathing out the wall at a bare minimum.
 
Posts: 784 | Location: PA  | Registered: December 05, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of cparktd
posted Hide Post
Consider sealing the wall first.
Has it been painted or is it still bare stucco?
If never painted, something like UGL Dry-Loc would be good insurance.



Collecting dust.
 
Posts: 4237 | Location: Middle Tennessee | Registered: February 07, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Nullus Anxietas
Picture of ensigmatic
posted Hide Post
When you say "below grade" do you mean as in "basement?"

If so: You must put a vapor barrier between the concrete or cinder block and whatever material it is with which you line the inside (wood, plasterboard, etc.)

If you want to avoid that closet, which will be dead air space, becoming a humidity-trapping space out of which moisture will condense and create mold (ask me how I know), you should also insulate those exterior walls.

You can accomplish both vapor barrier and insulation with solid foam panels. Seal the seams with Great Stuff.

N.B.: If part of the space in question includes a rim joist there will probably be fire code rules you'll have to follow for insulating that.

The outside walls of my Man Cave, insulated, sealed, and with 1x2 strips attached for securing wallboard:




"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system,,,, but too early to shoot the bastards." -- Claire Wolfe
"If we let things terrify us, life will not be worth living." -- Seneca the Younger, Roman Stoic philosopher
 
Posts: 26071 | Location: S.E. Michigan | Registered: January 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata  
 

SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  The Lounge    Construction adhesive question, applying cedar closet boards

© SIGforum 2024