I want to raise the height of a section of water line outside that included a backflow prevention system. It's for irrigation and tee's off the main line to the house.

As far as I can tell, it involves de-soldering 4 spots, adding 2 short lengths of pipe (12" or less), re-soldering 4 spots.

This seems like about 1-2 hours of work plus some materials.

How much would this reasonably cost for a quality job? I'm guessing $200-300. But estimate is coming in higher than that - like $400-600. Should I keep getting quotes or does that sound about right?

Cost of materials, labor, permit(s), time for inspection, possible cost for utility/services sub-locate can add to costing that you might not be factoring.

Stuff costs money.

Having owned/operated several business from the early 70s, it made me realize why costs are higher than one might think.

Call around. Even consider calling other areas far outside yours, to see if there is similar costing.

And you could ask "why" it costs so much, some will be pleased to tell you.

Perhaps cash in the hand might get you a much lower price.
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quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
I want to raise the height of a section of water line outside that included a backflow prevention system. It's for irrigation and tee's off the main line to the house.

As far as I can tell, it involves de-soldering 4 spots, adding 2 short lengths of pipe (12" or less), re-soldering 4 spots.

This seems like about 1-2 hours of work plus some materials.

How much would this reasonably cost for a quality job? I'm guessing $200-300. But estimate is coming in higher than that - like $400-600. Should I keep getting quotes or does that sound about right?

Do you want it done with a permit and an inspection, or just done correctly? If you do want a permit and an inspection, do you expect the plumber to handle permitting, or will you do that?

If you want a permit and expect them to take care of it, $400-$600 is a screaming deal in the Bay Area. If you just want it done right, the right one man shop might be willing to do the job right for less. Kinda depends on how busy and how flexible they are.

For the quotes you're getting I'd buy some copper pipe, practice soldering on it, and do it myself.

Then again: I've been soldering electronics of various kinds for years and years, understand the principles of good solder joints, and have watched carefully as plumbers have done it. So, for me, it would be a pretty straight-forward learning process.

Maybe not a helpful suggestion, but maybe it is…

DIY with Sharkbite style connectors? I’ve used them a few times (though with pex, not copper) and the results were great. Couldn’t be easier.

You have copper that is direct burial ?

Thanks guys.

Sometimes it's hard for me to judge whether quotes are reasonable or are a bit inflated for my zipcode.

I assumed that this is just a labor project - no permits or inspections or utility required. If some bureaucratic process is required, I can understand additional costs but this seems to be straight up labor only to me except for 12" of copper pipe. But I could be wrong; I'll ask for the quote to be itemized.

But if it really is all labor - sounds right?

I'm tempted to try to do myself. I may have done some copper piping when I was younger - but I can't even remember. It's probably a good skill to have. I'm concerned I will do something wrong / bad for my water supply. I can deal w/ leaks but not toxins.

I don't know what sharkbite is. I'll look into it. But want the fix to pass code when I sell the house.

All of the work is above ground. I'm raising the height of the irrigation line about 12" where it taps into the main water line.

I'd probably use a threaded coupling off of the highest inlet fitting unless there is a valve handy, then pipe from there. Otherwise soldering could be a mess with water in the line. If unions are present you can probably do the job with brass nipples. Want to post a picture? AFAIK, Sharkbite is not approved for exterior exposed use.

Thanks.

The area is covered in insulation but I can describe it.

Water main (galvanized steel? not copper) comes up out of ground to a (gate?) (brass?) valve with threaded joints. Then very short piece of copper pipe to connect to a Tee that branches to the irrigation line.

Short segment of pipe then a soldered reducer from 1 1/4" to 3/4". Another short segment of pipe to another tee that goes to a hose valve and to the house.

I'm trying to raise the height of the irrigation tee to be near the tee going into the house instead of right out of the gate valve.

The first question is: Why?

Second question is: Can you not post a photo?

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:

Sometimes it's hard for me to judge whether quotes are reasonable or are a bit inflated for my zipcode.

But somehow we are supposed to know, even though we have no idea of WHERE you live or what the local market is like for your area???

Why - I need to fit something underneath the irrigation line.

Photo: I'll try later today but all the pipe is covered by insulation. It'll just show the general pipe setup.

Cost: of course not expecting an exact quote. Just ballpark - basically for a job that I think is 3 unsolders, 3-5 solders and a small section of copper pipe (12").

This seems like 1-2 hours of work; so $250/hour seems high for me. But maybe there is more to the job than I know.

If it is copper, all you need is a pipe (tubing) cutter (hack saw will work, but cleaner job with cutter).

Lead free solder, lead free tinning flux, 120 grit (wet-dry) sand paper, the correct diameter pipe, and the correct diameter slip joints for each join, map gas torch and insulation.
(if you can use Air Conditioning insulation expanded foam the slip on tube is preferred, but if you cannot push it back far enough to keep from melting it, you can use the slit typo and tape with the correct insulation tape.)

De-solder the old pipe, (shake the water out if you can) and cut it back to clean copper, then measure your pipe to fit, if you can spread the pipe ends away to facilitate the slip joints, that makes things easier.

Clean the outside mating surface with sandpaper, and clean the inside of the slip joints with sandpaper.
Cover the cleaned areas with tinning flux, assemble a slip joints and new pipe then heat a joint near the middle, play the flame over the entire joint while holding the solder along the line of the pipe and join and you will see the solder flow, as it flows move the flame away enough to let the heat drop and "wipe" the solder around the circumference of the join line to fill the join. (think 45 degree angle of the fill).

If you have to quench/heat sink the pipe to prevent damage to anything connected to the pipe, use a rag wrapped and tied around the pipe about 4-6 inches from the solder work, and keep it wet, and pour a little water over it as needed.

Then do the same to the other side of the join, pretty much all in a single operation.

Follow up on all the other joins.

After, pressurize it.

Total cost for you should be under $150 if you have to buy everything.



Or...

Wow, Thanks! Definitely copying this for future reference. I was actually thinking about DIY but after reading this, honestly, I've lost confidence. I'm going to look for videos that show what you're talking about and buy materials so that I can learn how to do it. But I'm not really able to visualize what you describe and so I've lost confidence to take on this project. Sounds like something you do after developing some skills, not a project to build and test skills. At least to this unhandyman.

But sounds like a useful skill to learn for the future - when I retire, I should do this kind of stuff myself since budget will be even more limited.

Thanks again for the tutorial.

Calling the man for an itemized quote including hours of labor and labor rate.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
Thanks guys.

Sometimes it's hard for me to judge whether quotes are reasonable or are a bit inflated for my zipcode.

I assumed that this is just a labor project - no permits or inspections or utility required. If some bureaucratic process is required, I can understand additional costs but this seems to be straight up labor only to me except for 12" of copper pipe. But I could be wrong; I'll ask for the quote to be itemized.

But if it really is all labor - sounds right?

I'm tempted to try to do myself. I may have done some copper piping when I was younger - but I can't even remember. It's probably a good skill to have. I'm concerned I will do something wrong / bad for my water supply. I can deal w/ leaks but not toxins.

I don't know what sharkbite is. I'll look into it. But want the fix to pass code when I sell the house.

All of the work is above ground. I'm raising the height of the irrigation line about 12" where it taps into the main water line.

In most cities in Kommiefornia you are required to get a permit to replace a water heater. Nobody with any sense does, but in Kommiefornia the government wants their fees. I’d be shocked if you went to your local building department and asked and they didn’t tell you, “Yes, absolutely a permit is required for that change to your plumbing.” Again, the vast majority of folks would do the work and drive on, but…

What size is the copper pipe?

Output from gate valve is 1 1/4” (valve is 1 1/4”). Then reduced down to 1” or 3/4” right before entering the house. The tee for irrigation is 1 1/4”. Unless the gate valve output is a 1 1/4” valve with a reduced output port. I assume not though.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
Wow, Thanks! Definitely copying this for future reference. I was actually thinking about DIY but after reading this, honestly, I've lost confidence. I'm going to look for videos that show what you're talking about and buy materials so that I can learn how to do it. But I'm not really able to visualize what you describe and so I've lost confidence to take on this project. Sounds like something you do after developing some skills, not a project to build and test skills. At least to this unhandyman.

But sounds like a useful skill to learn for the future - when I retire, I should do this kind of stuff myself since budget will be even more limited.

Thanks again for the tutorial.

Calling the man for an itemized quote including hours of labor and labor rate.

Beh! The materials aren’t that expensive. Buy some extra and play with it, soldering and unsoldering your spare parts. It won’t take long to get comfortable with it, and you can do that before you ever touch your actual plumbing. Mr. Monkey gave you incredibly detailed instructions. Practice a bit and they’ll start to make sense. The only thing I can add is if you have a piece of hose that will fit inside the pipe you can use it to siphon the water out. You want the water out so that you can more easily heat the pipe. Once your pipe and fittings are clean and free of oxidation (sandpaper) and you apply the flux, the heat will cause the solder to melt and run toward the heat. This is why you heat the center of the coupler and apply the solder at the edge of the coupler as if you were trying to push it between the coupler and the pipe. Once the coupler is warm enough at the edge to melt the solder, the greater heat in the middle will suck the solder right in. It is a lot easier than it sounds, get some spare parts and play with it.

As far as quotes, it is a piffle job. It will probably take very little time if everything is as described. Many tradespeople hates these kind of jobs because it still takes as long to deal with the customer, drive to the job, go get parts, etc, but it is hard to charge enough to make it worthwhile. On bigger projects with heavy equipment there is actually a mobilization/demobilization charge. Plumbers don’t get that. Someone asking for an itemized quote for something like this may be lucky to get a call back.

Sharkbite makes 1-1/4 inch fittings. They are easy to install.

Here is a straight fitting and you can get elbows etc. You could do this yourself. Just watch a few videos.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sh...ing-SB0135/203232297

Lead free DZR brass construction for durability and reliability

Use to connect to any combination of copper, PEX, CPVC or PE-RT pipes

Innovative push-to-connect design makes for quick and easy installation

Push-to-connect fittings require no solder, glue, unions or tools

Fitting can be rotated on pipe after installation making it easier to work in tight spaces

Designed for potable water distribution as well as hydronic heating applications

Corrosion resistant to improve longevity

Certified as a manufactured joint and for underground and behind-the-wall applications without access panels

Listed by IAPMO and design certified and listed to ASSE 1061/NSF 61

Meets all UPC, IPC and cUPC requirements
Demount clip allows user to release the fitting from the pipe for convenient installation flexibility (sold separately)

Rated to 200°F and 200 psi