We have a cook top in our kitchen which we need to remove. It's wired in under the cabinets like this. Is this just a special type of plug which can be unscrewed and removed, or does this look like it's hard wired into the electrical?

Not an electrician, but that’s hardwired.

hard wired. Possibly involving wire nuts behind the panel.

Are you just replacing with a new one?

quote:

Originally posted by radioman:
hard wired. Possibly involving wire nuts behind the panel.

Are you just replacing with a new one?

Yes

If you are just replacing with another cooktop, disconnect from the cooktop side, there will be terminals (SHUT THE BREAKER OFF!!!) and leave this wall connection be.

If you are replacing with a traditional range that is cooktop/oven, I would remove this whip from that box (SHUT THE BREAKER OFF!!!) and replace the receptacle with either a 3-wire or 4-wire range receptacle depending on how your wiring is set up and the appropriate range cord:

If that is the case, you'd also need to ensure that is a 50 amp circuit and not a 30 amp circuit which it very well may be if it was only a cooktop.

Look at the bottom of this pic:

quote:

Originally posted by PASig:
If you are just replacing with another cooktop, disconnect from the cooktop side, there will be terminals (SHUT THE BREAKER OFF!!!) and leave this wall connection be.

If you are replacing with a traditional range that is cooktop/oven, I would remove this whip from that box (SHUT THE BREAKER OFF!!!) and replace the receptacle with either a 3-wire or 4-wire range receptacle depending on how your wiring is set up and the appropriate range cord:

If that is the case, you'd also need to ensure that is a 50 amp circuit and not a 30 amp circuit which it very well may be if it was only a cooktop.

Look at the bottom of this pic:

Thanks for the advice. Yes, we're replacing it with a new cooktop. I may try your solution and just disconnect at the cooktop and not the wall. Anything I need to be aware of? I've done a little electrical, not much.

Not an electrician, but I sell appliances. Electric cooktops and drop ins are shipped to be hardwired. Slide in ranges and free standing are plug in.

quote:

Originally posted by 4x5:

Thanks for the advice. Yes, we're replacing it with a new cooktop. I may try your solution and just disconnect at the cooktop and not the wall. Anything I need to be aware of? I've done a little electrical, not much.

I would check your breaker for the cooktop, it should be its own breaker. Note if it's 30 amp or 50 amp and make sure the new cooktop specs match. If they do, it's just a matter of disconnecting the white/red/black wire (and green/bare copper if 4-wire) terminals on the old cooktop and reconnecting. All with the breaker OFF of course

Hardwired connection new cooktop should be able to use that cover if it's hard wired.

You might be able to change out the hard wired new cooktop wiring with a three/four prong plug like for a dryer, thus making it removeable in the event of service needs although it might not be worth the cost of the new wire and plug to do it.

quote:

Originally posted by PASig:

quote:

Originally posted by 4x5:

Thanks for the advice. Yes, we're replacing it with a new cooktop. I may try your solution and just disconnect at the cooktop and not the wall. Anything I need to be aware of? I've done a little electrical, not much.

I would check your breaker for the cooktop, it should be its own breaker. Note if it's 30 amp or 50 amp and make sure the new cooktop specs match. If they do, it's just a matter of disconnecting the white/red/black wire (and green/bare copper if 4-wire) terminals on the old cooktop and reconnecting. All with the breaker OFF of course

Just checked - new stovetop recommends 30A breaker at 208V, 40A breaker at 240V. My current stovetop is wired into 2 30A breakers. I'm not sure what all this means.

It might be worth it to seek professional help with this problem unless you are willing to devote enough time to learn enough to not be a danger to yourself and your home.

quote:

Originally posted by PASig:
If you are just replacing with another cooktop, disconnect from the cooktop side, there will be terminals (SHUT THE BREAKER OFF!!!) and leave this wall connection be.

If you are replacing with a traditional range that is cooktop/oven, I would remove this whip from that box (SHUT THE BREAKER OFF!!!) and replace the receptacle with either a 3-wire or 4-wire range receptacle depending on how your wiring is set up and the appropriate range cord:

If that is the case, you'd also need to ensure that is a 50 amp circuit and not a 30 amp circuit which it very well may be if it was only a cooktop.

Look at the bottom of this pic:

This is a built in, stationary appliance... which should be hardwired.
Like the one currently installed.

quote:

Originally posted by Stlhead:
It might be worth it to seek professional help with this problem unless you are willing to devote enough time to learn enough to not be a danger to yourself and your home.

Yep.

If you decide to replace the cooktop, look up the power specs for the one you're replacing, then buy a replacement that has the same rating, from a place that does installations. Money well spent.

quote:

Originally posted by joel9507:

If you decide to replace the cooktop, look up the power specs for the one you're replacing, then buy a replacement that has the same rating, from a place that does installations. Money well spent.

Costco Concierge service does the removal, disposal of the old unit and installs and connects the new unit at no additional charge.

Many companies do this some charge a fee, either way have them do the whole thing...

I've got an electrician coming over to do the work. I'm sure I could figure it out, but I value my life

Thanks everyone

See if you have any other electrical tasks they could do while there. They’ll probably charge you a minimum fee, as in one hour, and that might take them 10 minutes.

quote:

Originally posted by 4x5:
I've got an electrician coming over to do the work. I'm sure I could figure it out, but I value my life

Thanks everyone

If it doesn't work out, let me know. I will gladly pop up to Highland (from Spanish Fork) and do it for you this Saturday.

quote:

If you are replacing with a traditional range that is cooktop/oven, I would remove this whip from that box (SHUT THE BREAKER OFF!!!) and replace the receptacle with either a 3-wire or 4-wire range receptacle depending on how your wiring is set up and the appropriate range cord:

Be advised that if you do this, the 2020 NEC (see article 210.8(A)) requires that the circuit be CFCI protected, which will require you to replace the breaker at around $100 for that breaker. Basically, the code was changed to include all receptacles that are 120-250v with single phase voltage of 150v or less to ground. IOW, your 240v receptacles (dryer,range, or electric WH). However, if you leave it hardwired as pictured, you do not need CFCI protection because the code only requires receptacles to be protected, not all outlets. The cheapest (and preferred, IMO) thing to do would be to leave the outlet as is, hardwired. Your electrician may point this out, or he may not, but it is the new GFCI requirement, nevertheless.

quote:

Originally posted by sigcrazy7:


Be advised that if you do this, the 2020 NEC (see article 210.8(A)) requires that the circuit be CFCI protected, which will require you to replace the breaker at around $100 for that breaker. Basically, the code was changed to include all receptacles that are 120-250v with single phase voltage of 150v or less to ground. IOW, your 240v receptacles (dryer,range, or electric WH). However, if you leave it hardwired as pictured, you do not need CFCI protection because the code only requires receptacles to be protected, not all outlets. The cheapest (and preferred, IMO) thing to do would be to leave the outlet as is, hardwired. Your electrician may point this out, or he may not, but it is the new GFCI requirement, nevertheless.

That's just stupid IMO. GFI protection on a range?

I put a GFI breaker on my dishwasher in my new kitchen but was not aware the range had to be as well.

Does the new cooktop come with the armored cable ('pigtail') already installed?
If it does, this could eliminate having to deal with their 'factory' connections inside the cooktop itself and allow the connecting to be done at the wall box.

If you choose to, you may proceed this way.

Before you start, observe the cooktop and note if there is a clock or display that is active, then shut off the breaker at the service panel and see if the cooktop has power. Did the clock display go off? Do the burners get hot? Is it truly off?
Once you are satisfied that it has no power you can prepare to unwire it.
The odd 'plug' that you described on the box cover is actually a special fitting that allows the cable to be attached to the box cover and held in place. You should first loosen the 2 screws on the fitting 1/2 turn each. Then remove the other four screws and slowly pull the cover away from the box far enough to get a good look inside. The installer should have left each wire 6" long (but don't count on it) so you should be able to pull it out 3" to 5". There should be wire nuts holding each pair (or group) of wires together.
Take a moment here and make a drawing of what you see, showing the color combinations, and/or, make a list with 2 columns labeled 'Line' and 'Load'. Write down each color coming from the cooktop pigtail under 'Load' and the wire each of those is connected to under 'Line'. It doesn't hurt to take a picture with you phone or camera to prevent having to guess later on.
Stop for a moment and compare what you have recorded under 'Load" with what you see coming out of the new pigtail. Are they the same?
If they are not and the 'Installation' instructions that came with new cooktop offer no clue as to why the colors are different or if this whole thing is making you uncomfortable at this point, you could carefully push the cover back into place, replace the screws, and call in the Pro.
Or, proceed.
Remove each wirenut and, as you go, make sure that the two wires that were under it match up with what you have recorded.
When the wires are all free, remove the two screws from the 90 deg fitting and flip the curved top cover up. Note the position of the cable, or, how far inside the fitting it is. (When you install the new pigtail you will want to duplicate this). Then turn the cover so that it is at a right angle to the cable. This should release the cable from the fitting and allow the wires to be pulled through the open back of the fitting.

You're half done!

Carefully feed the wires from the new pigtail into the fitting, lay the armored cable into the fitting, positioned just as the old one was, and replace the two screws to secure it.
Connect the wire pairs according to your drawing, list, or picture. I like to start with the shortest wire pair first because they are liable to be the hardest if saved 'till last. Make it easy on yourself when you can.
When you are are installing the wirenuts, position each pair of wires so that the ends are the same length and hold each matched pair tightly as you begin twisting it on. Make sure that one of the wires is not being pushed down by the wirenut as it threads on. (Some people are in the habit of twisting the wires together tightly before installing the wirenut. This is not wrong but I prefer to do, or not do, this depending on the circumstances). If the wires are staying together, keep twisting until they are tight. The amount of effort that it took to get the wirenuts off the original pairs should have given you an idea of how tight they need to be. You can wrap each connection with electrical tape if you want, but If you decide to do this, do it as you you go instead of waiting until you have made all of the connections.
When the pairs of wires are all properly paired up and tightly connected you can push them into the box. This may involve some some folding of the wires to get them into the box and get the cover back on. The 'Line' wires, the wires from the service panel, will likely be still somewhat bent from being previously installed and it should be just a matter of getting the new wire in each pair to bend the same way.
This is actually a critical time because if the wires were not tightly connected, this is when your connections can get stressed and a wire could pop out of the wirenut. You may want to push everything into the box but before you reinstall the cover screws, pull the cover back out just far enough to look inside. This 'second look' is optional and is mostly for people who worry too much. Like me.
If everything looks good, replace cover screws and switch the breaker back on.

Adding a cord and plug will still force you to not only make up the receptacle connection, but add a cord to the cooktop. That's fully 2 times the wiring, plus the cost of the new receptacle, cover, and a molded cord.

Art 210.8(A) does not seem to apply in this situation.

Just a thought.

quote:

Originally posted by Sig Vicious:
Adding a cord and plug will still force you to not only make up the receptacle connection, but add a cord to the cooktop. That's fully 2 times the wiring, plus the cost of the new receptacle, cover, and a molded cord.

Art 210.8(A) does not seem to apply in this situation.

Just a thought.

How do you figure that 210.8(A) doesn’t apply?